McCulloch Chain Saws

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Hi Everyone,
I'm new on this site and am looking for some suggestions on finding parts.
I Have a McCulloch 1-70 from my wife's Uncle. the case is stamped 1-70 over 80 and the 80 is X'd out from what I've learned it should be a 1-70.
He went into a nursing home and then passed years ago, it sat in a barn with fuel in it no telling how long, I pulled the spark plug dripped fuel directly in and it fired up and ran for a few seconds. I'm guessing it will need a carb rebuild and new fuel line minimum. Also the chain seems to be seized is this going to be a money pit project ?
 

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its magnesium mr woods

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How did you determine that it is magnesium? I did the vinegar test and there was no reaction which indicates it isn’t magnesium. I scraped the test spot first to make sure I was on clean metal.

I may attempt to weld it myself using some low temperature aluminum rods that Brian has, but before I do I wanted to double check.

Ron
 
How did you determine that it is magnesium? I did the vinegar test and there was no reaction which indicates it isn’t magnesium. I scraped the test spot first to make sure I was on clean metal.

I may attempt to weld it myself using some low temperature aluminum rods that Brian has, but before I do I wanted to double check.

Ron
well mr woods i was wrong i also done the vinegar trick today same results as yours..guess thats what happens when you listen to an old saw guy that thinks he knows what hes talking about the last time we spoke anyway..i,dont see any reason it can be fixed tho never hurts to try..fixed my 850 today with and old 800 top end today[emoji4] with a little modification on the engine spark plug cover[emoji56]

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Sorry about that Ron, I had completely forgotten about the loose bar studs.

ed - the manual oiler and automatic oiler work in conjunction. The manual oiler does not have any check valve so it relies on the oil level in the tank to push the bar oil into the pump. There is a check valve in the automatic pump, sounds to me like yours may not be working. Pull the front cover off and pop the clip off to release the automatic pump body. Try flushing the automatic pump with some brake cleaner or something similar to see if you can free the check valve. My guess is that will solve all of the oiler issues. Check the pump function by operating the piston manually, you should see oil being pumped out the discharge side. It may help to force some oil into the inlet side with a piston type pump oiler.

IMG_5171.JPG

Mark
 
No need for apologies, Mark. I am learning something new. I should be able to fix it. Also may never use a helicoil in cast aluminum again after watching this video. Drill out the stripped hole, heat and fill with the rod, while still molten drop in a heated bolt, let cool and unscrew bolt. This technique is demo’d at the end of the video.

Ron
 
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Hi Everyone,
I'm new on this site and am looking for some suggestions on finding parts.
I Have a McCulloch 1-70 from my wife's Uncle. the case is stamped 1-70 over 80 and the 80 is X'd out from what I've learned it should be a 1-70.
He went into a nursing home and then passed years ago, it sat in a barn with fuel in it no telling how long, I pulled the spark plug dripped fuel directly in and it fired up and ran for a few seconds. I'm guessing it will need a carb rebuild and new fuel line minimum. Also the chain seems to be seized is this going to be a money pit project ?
It was my understanding that MAC made the 1-70 out of leftover parts. Can't remember where I read that.. Just kinda stuck in my head
 
I guess I'm mainly wondering if its worth fixing.
I'd like to get it running but more of a make it run keep it in the family in the garage.
And to annoy the neighbors when i use it to cut down a 4" diameter holly tree.
Here's a photo of the stamp 1-70 over 80 and the 80 has x-marks through it.
 

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The 1-70 was a direct drive, the 1-80 a gear drive saw. The block could go either way so when the saw went through assembly they would strike through the model it did not become. Lots of parts will interchange with many similar models so you shouldn't have to spend a lot to get it going. Have you tried removing the chain? Sometimes they get a little rusty and get stuck.

Mark
 
No, I havent done anything to it as of yet.
When I first got it I drained the old gas out and put some straight gas in it to try and clean out the tank.
After that it went into storage I recently bought a house cleaned out the storage and here I am.
I pulled the carb out today and the fuel intake port was pretty much gummed clean shut.
While looking at it today the chain will move off the bar if I pull on it but back near the pull cord it is caked full of gunk, the cylinder head fins are the same way so i guess a serious cleaning is in order.
 
How did you determine that it is magnesium? I did the vinegar test and there was no reaction which indicates it isn’t magnesium. I scraped the test spot first to make sure I was on clean metal.

I may attempt to weld it myself using some low temperature aluminum rods that Brian has, but before I do I wanted to double check.

Ron

as in vid, mag looks lil darker. it's how i guess. the file & burn looks like a good test.
welded mag cover w/alum by mistake once. seemed to weld ok, but alum fill cracked as it cooled.
 
Mark,thanks for the info.The check valve probably got stuck from sitting around for yrs.with heavy bar oil in it.I cut my bar oil with kerosene at a ratio of 1 pint :1 gal.It thins it out just enough to allow easy flow in colder temps,but still provides plenty of lube to the bar & chain.This was passed on to me by our buddy Bob Johnson.I'll try the brake fluid to get the check valve working again.By using what you called a"piston type oiler",did you mean an oil can with the pump on it?
Ed
 
Well she's all back together but I only have one question where does the little cable go I think I might have the mounts switched

Edit: she absolutely rips. Gotta do some tuning but the 28" bar is like the 20" on my 70. Think I found a new favorite......
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Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk
 
Well she's all back together but I only have one question where does the little cable go I think I might have the mounts switched

Edit: she absolutely rips. Gotta do some tuning but the 28" bar is like the 20" on my 70. Think I found a new favorite......
bfffaa064e23cc8a0cc88579d05fd2a0.jpg
41dce2505f1b8bb4a69c4cd986f2a83a.jpg
e1f81516163538490c62f1fe189b30c9.jpg


Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk

The ground cable goes to one of the front isolator to fuel tank bolts. It ensures that the on / off switch is grounded.
 
Well she's all back together but I only have one question where does the little cable go I think I might have the mounts switched

Edit: she absolutely rips. Gotta do some tuning but the 28" bar is like the 20" on my 70. Think I found a new favorite......
bfffaa064e23cc8a0cc88579d05fd2a0.jpg
41dce2505f1b8bb4a69c4cd986f2a83a.jpg
e1f81516163538490c62f1fe189b30c9.jpg


Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk

Good job very very nice saw. Lucky that cylinder came out ok.
 
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