IMO if you can’t safely run a top handle saw then you should probably leave the rear handle saws alone too. Not directed at anyone in paticular just sayin’
trail clearing saw
- Thread starter wADVr
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Echo cs-352 is a good choice. I made a backpack for it out of an old tool belt. I can fit the saw,3 wedges, my hatchet, a scrench, a spare chain, and all my PPE in the “backpack”. I then take an old Makita tool bag (the square boxy ones) and strap it to the front of my dirtbike right above the front fender. In that I can carry gas, oil, water, files, food, and anything else I need to carry. I clear a lot of trail around my in-laws property. With this setup I can cover a lot of ground and really get a lot done. The pack is pretty damn comfortable with this size saw( I’ve tried with bigger saws and it’s not that great) and the handle will just barely touch my seat when I sit. It’s actually nice because it will take the weight off my shoulders when I do that. I have pics of the backpack setup but I don’t think I’ve ever taken pics of my bike with the tool bag on it. Here’s the backpack. I will throw a strap through the gas can and an oil jug if I’m just hiking or if I want to leave the bike at a spot and walk from there. 
nettle
ArboristSite Member
I use this for keeping our horse, tractor, and ATV trails clear.
I ain't saying it was the safest option, but i cleared / maintained a LOT of atv trails with my old top handle Mini Mac 30 with a 12" bar, and never cut my face off. No chain brake or nothin. Strapped it to atv rack with a bungee.
How does a top handle saw become inherently safer the minute you step off the ground & climb up a tree with it?
Problem with threads in general is sorting the good info from the poor. Sorting experience from posters rewriting what they 'heard' or 'read'... And for an OP needing good advice wading through the swamp can be challenging.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
You really hurt my feelings last night with your venomous verbal attack!
In fact, I needed tranquilizers to pull me out my funk.
Suck it up buttercup!
Outrageous outbursts are nothing more than good entertainment around here.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
My finding is that those top handled saws can be dangerous in the wrong hands.
I had a really fast modified 020AV and while cutting up skids for kindling the lil turkey carver turned the tables and sliced the webbing between my thumb and forefinger on my left hand.
Although stitches were required it was just a glorified flesh wound.
I had a really fast modified 020AV and while cutting up skids for kindling the lil turkey carver turned the tables and sliced the webbing between my thumb and forefinger on my left hand.
Although stitches were required it was just a glorified flesh wound.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
You could also invest in one of these. They are very cost effective. In fact you can clear 10 feet of trail in one fell swoop without going anywhere.Plus with the optional helpers handle you could effectively clear one mile of trail in under an hour with just two swampers bringing up the rear humping brush.
Another option is to just go to Lowe’s and buy a couple of 20” Husky Barney’s and return them as ineffective when the job is done.
How does a top handle saw become inherently safer the minute you step off the ground & climb up a tree with it?
It doesn't get more safe, it gets more useful. I've said in other threads that if I didn't climb, I wouldn't own a top handle saw. Mainly because using a top handle saw on the ground sucks in my opinion. There also seems to be a theory floating that top handle saws are good beginner saws...which I think is absolutely incorrect.
OP's situation is an interesting one and one where I think a light weight top handle might actually be the best option. Size and weight are a serious consideration and the amount of time spent sawing is going to be minimal.
OP look at the Echo 2511t. One of the lightest and most compact on the market, plenty of power for trail clearing. A small battery powered saw might also be worth looking into. Grab 2-3 batteries depending on how long you plan to be out on the trails clearing.
A good handsaw would be far easier to carry and very effective. That idea was brought up already..
people who haven't used good handsaws have no idea what they can do.
people who haven't used good handsaws have no idea what they can do.
I have a Silky. It's fantastic. I would NOT want to be sawing on actual logs with any hand saw.
This guy isn't just clearing brush and small stuff. He could have 20 inch tree's across the trail. Lets say you've been riding for hours and have 2 hours left to get to your destination and now you have to manually saw, twice, through a fairly large log. OR you can pull out a chainsaw and have it done in 5 minutes with no real physical exertion.
Ok.
i carried a handsaw and an axe for years and years while travelling trails. Only occasionally are they the wrong tools. Detouring, ramping, partially cutting, etc, etc will get you through if you are in a hurry. Otherwise you can clear nearly anything with hand tools, and they are as reliable as anvils.
At some point, like when there's lots and lots of large obstructions a powersaw makes light work. But not a wee saw...
i carried a handsaw and an axe for years and years while travelling trails. Only occasionally are they the wrong tools. Detouring, ramping, partially cutting, etc, etc will get you through if you are in a hurry. Otherwise you can clear nearly anything with hand tools, and they are as reliable as anvils.
At some point, like when there's lots and lots of large obstructions a powersaw makes light work. But not a wee saw...
Ok.
Colt Marlington
ArboristSite Guru
If I was hiking in, I'd absolutely carry my little Echo 2511T.
009L would be a fairly distant second, as it's somewhat compact with a little more umph and isn't too heavy or expensive.
On a four wheeler I might choose a 50cc saw for those larger fallen trees that I couldn't drive over or around. Probably my Shindaiwa 491s with 18" bar. Because that's what I have that is lightweight, cheap, and dependable with enough power and bar length to make a difference over the smaller saws.
Oh...and a wedge or two and a spare b&c for the potential pinch.
009L would be a fairly distant second, as it's somewhat compact with a little more umph and isn't too heavy or expensive.
On a four wheeler I might choose a 50cc saw for those larger fallen trees that I couldn't drive over or around. Probably my Shindaiwa 491s with 18" bar. Because that's what I have that is lightweight, cheap, and dependable with enough power and bar length to make a difference over the smaller saws.
Oh...and a wedge or two and a spare b&c for the potential pinch.
wADVr
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks everyone. Good discussion for sure!
I do have a couple of handsaws I always carry ( a Silky and a Wyoming saw) but as Echoroamercharlie mentions above, this is my typical situation. The last tome this was an issue it cost me an hour+ to traverse a tree that would have taken 5 minutes to clear with a saw(powered) not wanting to spend so long doing trail maintenance manually we opted to haul the bikes over the downed tree (probably 18-22”) that was on a steep angle which being tired cost significant time, risk and effort. If we had been loaded up with gear or better/worse a couple of elk quarters it would have really sucked. Carrying a lightweight saw is not an issue for my bike but would like to keep it somewhat compact and lightweight. This is more of a get out tool than a tool for normal everyday usage commercial or volunteering.
Yes I am typically riding a motorcycle, a Rokon trailbreaker to be specific. More of a tool than a recreation piece. I guess I am looking for something equivalent in a saw: durable, compact and light, not specifically fast or fun but will get the job done before it gets dark. The old metal Stihls seem to fit this but am completely open to an Echo or a Husky or maybe even a Poulon? I will look into the mentioned saws, thanks! I am not a saw guru at all which is why I posted here. I can operate a saw and have for many years mainly clearing storm debris when needed but have always used a larger rear handle saw and drove a truck or van to each location.
Thanks everyone this has been a good discussion and continue to learn and research.
I do have a couple of handsaws I always carry ( a Silky and a Wyoming saw) but as Echoroamercharlie mentions above, this is my typical situation. The last tome this was an issue it cost me an hour+ to traverse a tree that would have taken 5 minutes to clear with a saw(powered) not wanting to spend so long doing trail maintenance manually we opted to haul the bikes over the downed tree (probably 18-22”) that was on a steep angle which being tired cost significant time, risk and effort. If we had been loaded up with gear or better/worse a couple of elk quarters it would have really sucked. Carrying a lightweight saw is not an issue for my bike but would like to keep it somewhat compact and lightweight. This is more of a get out tool than a tool for normal everyday usage commercial or volunteering.
Yes I am typically riding a motorcycle, a Rokon trailbreaker to be specific. More of a tool than a recreation piece. I guess I am looking for something equivalent in a saw: durable, compact and light, not specifically fast or fun but will get the job done before it gets dark. The old metal Stihls seem to fit this but am completely open to an Echo or a Husky or maybe even a Poulon? I will look into the mentioned saws, thanks! I am not a saw guru at all which is why I posted here. I can operate a saw and have for many years mainly clearing storm debris when needed but have always used a larger rear handle saw and drove a truck or van to each location.
Thanks everyone this has been a good discussion and continue to learn and research.
A Rokon?
cool.
that can carry a powersaw.
cool.
that can carry a powersaw.
My father in law has a rokon! Do you have the rack for the back of it? If you do you can strap whatever the hell you want to that thing and go clear lol
again though. Check out the echo cs-352. It’s pretty cheap brand new at any big box but I’m sure a smaller store would have a good deal too. I’ve put mine through the ringer multiple times and it just keeps cutting. The only problem I’ve had with it is the air filter. The cheap ones they sell for it let some dust through but again. I haven’t seized mine yet and I’ve really put some hours on it!
again though. Check out the echo cs-352. It’s pretty cheap brand new at any big box but I’m sure a smaller store would have a good deal too. I’ve put mine through the ringer multiple times and it just keeps cutting. The only problem I’ve had with it is the air filter. The cheap ones they sell for it let some dust through but again. I haven’t seized mine yet and I’ve really put some hours on it!
I have ran a large number of rear handle 30-42 cc saws for trail maintenance. With an 8-10 lb powerhead depending on the model I will do my 3.5 mile loop on foot in one afternoon if I do annual maintenance or maybe a full day if I slack off for a couple of years. I personally do not see why someone would specifically want a top handle saw for that type of work, but that's just my opinion.
This is just my personal experience, but for trail clearing i like a top handle because i can cut with one hand and grab / toss limbs with the other, so it goes fast without having to pick them up off the ground.
I cut up more than a couple larger logs with my mini mac, it just takes longer, haha. It was the only saw i had for a long time.
I cut up more than a couple larger logs with my mini mac, it just takes longer, haha. It was the only saw i had for a long time.
One time when I was a kid we were working on trails and came upon my neighbor who was doing the same. He had a mini Mac pinched in a 16" aspen. Used our Jonsereds M361 to rescue him. I remember being surprised how the Jonsereds dwarfed the Mini Mac and prior to that point, the Johnny was the smallest saw I had ever seen.
