Working on that today. My insurance only covers 15 mile radius from the vehicle and my shop is 38 miles away. They wanted an additional $175 from me to do the towing. May just pony that up.
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
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muad
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thank God no one was hurt.
Good luck. $175 sounds expensive, but having a best friend in the tow business, that sounds pretty fair. I think they charge $85 just to hook up, then $3.5/mile after.
Good luck. $175 sounds expensive, but having a best friend in the tow business, that sounds pretty fair. I think they charge $85 just to hook up, then $3.5/mile after.
Congrats on the new baby sawSo, went to my favorite local Stihl and Husky dealer to grab a 28” ES bar and chains for the 461. Hoping to start in on this red oak tomorrow. Well, I was handling the 261, and honestly, with a 20” bar is was too nose heavy. He said 18” is the sweet spot, but I think a 16” would be the cats ass. Well, I explained to him my dilemma, and he could have sold me a 261 today. I was ready to pull the trigger. But, after listening to me about my wife, he sort of agreed with the idea of a “cheap” saw for her first. He just happened to have a like new MS180C with easy start and a 16” B/C, for $150. Well, before y’all roast me, it makes sense to have her start on a cheapy, versus spending $500+ on a small pro saw.
That said, after handling the 261, I’m afraid it’s too close in size to my 361. I think the 241 is going to be the winner for a “small” saw for me. If the wife likes cutting, the 241 would be an upgrade for her later.
Also, the boy is getting to the age to start running a saw. He helps with spliting/stacking, and he runs the stove daily. The 180 will be a good starter for him also. Heck, if we only use it for a year or so, I’m sure I could still flip it for a $100.
Now to talk with a man about his 241
.Remember handling a saw in the store is not the same as running one in the place you'd run it. Just because the saw felt nose heavy doesn't mean it would when its ready to cut and even if it did handle placement, cylinder design, and many other things play a part in handling/flickability of a saw. Did the saw you handled have fuel in it
. I like most 50's with an 18, mainly for reach, but a ported 50 does a great job with a 20 even though it is a little nose heavy. You can also run a standard laminate 20" or a lightweight bar.
The stihls don't handle as well when cutting, but many guys don't like the outboard clutch for replacing chains/rims or because you can't remove the bar and chain if you get pinched. For me those things aren't a problem as I normally have another saw near or my tractor if I get pinched, also if your making a full bar cut you won't get the bar of the saw anyway so its a mute point. As far as changing out the rims that is more difficult and the onboard clutch wins as well as changing out chains, to me the handling is worth the difficulty as its not done as often.
Here's my ported 261 with a standard 20", didn't want to get pitch on my 20" lightweight bar
.
Pretty sure this one won't be tip heavy lol.
muad
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well, the 180C-BE won’t idle. I’ve adjusted the screw every witch way and it makes no difference on the idle speed. I can’t get the damn top cover off either. It’s some odd cover with some sort of lock on it. It only turns about 1/2 rotation, and no matter which way I have it set the top cover won’t come off. Google is now help as most 180s have the simple turn knob on them.
Ugh.
Ugh.
When I blew my transmission a few years ago it was $125 for ten miles. That price isn’t bad I was just checking around to see if someone else might do it cheaper. Probably go that route.
muad
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well, I got her going.
She’s just cold blooded. Once I ran it for a while, I was able to get her idling good.
Still need to figure out the top cover so I can clean the filter.
Mine likes the 350 husky . Light and easy to start good little saw
Post up a pic of the top cover please
muad
Addicted to ArboristSite
Congrats on the new baby saw
Remember handling a saw in the store is not the same as running one in the place you'd run it. Just because the saw felt nose heavy doesn't mean it would when its ready to cut and even if it did handle placement, cylinder design, and many other things play a part in handling/flickability of a saw. Did the saw you handled have fuel in it
I like most 50's with an 18, mainly for reach, but a ported 50 does a great job with a 20 even though it is a little nose heavy. You can also run a standard laminate 20" or a lightweight bar.
The stihls don't handle as well when cutting, but many guys don't like the outboard clutch for replacing chains/rims or because you can't remove the bar and chain if you get pinched. For me those things aren't a problem as I normally have another saw near or my tractor if I get pinched, also if your making a full bar cut you won't get the bar of the saw anyway so its a mute point. As far as changing out the rims that is more difficult and the onboard clutch wins as well as changing out chains, to me the handling is worth the difficulty as its not done as often.
Here's my ported 261 with a standard 20", didn't want to get pitch on my 20" lightweight bar
View attachment 796574
Pretty sure this one won't be tip heavy lol.
I’m sure I’d love it, I’m just afraid I might love it too much and my beloved 361 wouldn’t get any love.
So that knob should turn part ways then you pull it outward maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch and the cover should swing up. If you can’t do it by hand there may be dirt impacted in the threads. Maybe try a pliers with a chunk of cloth in the grips so you don’t mar the knob. Turn it back and forth while pulling outward on it.
The current owner did not build the houses. Battery cases, and concrete break down (80 years old). High lead levels in the soil regardless. No one wants to touch the properties due to the very high environmental remediation costs.
When that house was built, lead was 'good' stuff in plumbing connections, paint, etc. We even added it to our gasoline. Aesbestos was 'good' stuff too!
Philbert
@muad. I'm not sure on that newer model but on dad's older model you need to put the start lever in cold start position. Also engage the chain brake handle. Hope this helps.
EDIT. In your first pic it looks like you have it in the unlocked position( slot is horizontal) slot vertical will be locked.
EDIT. In your first pic it looks like you have it in the unlocked position( slot is horizontal) slot vertical will be locked.
So my opinion: wouldn’t the MNPCA want to get the hazardous materials out of there? Clearly a short term disruption but jeez you’d think it’s better to solve the problem than sandbag it.
Hey, the Romans drank from lead pipes, and some think that led to their downfall (incoherent thinking and irrational behavior).
Steve, if that was a new ball joint that failed, can you go after them??? I would think they are responsible for all your damage.
Three days of weather in NC. 4 inches of the white stuff, which is pretty big for around here.
My FIL, had an Aunt, that had Osteomyelitis, as a child/young adult, so that would put her born in the very early 1900's. Her treatment was to take a chunk of lead, scratch it up so there was no oxidized part sealing it. Drop it in a pan of warm milk, and make a cup of hot chocolate, and drink it every night. Evidently the dose of lead was strong enough to kill the infection, but not her. She had scars from where they cut her open and tried to scrape the infection off the bones manually. What ever different processes they tried, it was a several year treatment, until she started drinking the milk with lead in it. She lived to be almost 100.
