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4 way or 6 way

Discussion in 'Large Equipment' started by tg_weaver, Mar 3, 2018.

  1. tg_weaver

    tg_weaver ArboristSite Member

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    Have a guy coming to the house tomorrow to weld up a slip on wedge for my splitter. 35 ton huskee with a 16.5 kholer engine. Would like to have him make a 6 way wedge. Looking for input. Has any one made one? How well do they work? Is it better than a 4 way?

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  2. tom caldwell

    tom caldwell New Member

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    I’d recommend if possible a 4 way first, slip ons in general tend to have a mind of their own often influenced by the knife they are sitting on. Depending on the knife angle to the beam, depth and width of knife they will want to slip upward under load, make sure the bottoms of the new horizontal knives are flat with the beveled edge on the top. Also if the knife that’s welded to the beam has a protruding edge at the beam, that can also encourage the edge to slip off.
    Chances are you will want to run it for a while and make some changes before trying a 6way.
     
  3. nvr-enuf

    nvr-enuf ArboristSite Member

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    6way 6way 6way - I have a modified Rayco splitter with a 6 way wedge and it works AWESOME
    Did you already decide / put plans in place for a wedge?
    I have the 4 way factor rayco if you want to buy it for a starting point or maybe just use as is.
     
  4. tg_weaver

    tg_weaver ArboristSite Member

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    We did it yesturday. 4 way. Can always modify it see how she does.



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  5. tg_weaver

    tg_weaver ArboristSite Member

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    This is the style splitter i have. I really like the ones where the ram does the pushing. I think i am gonna start collecting the stuff needed to make my own splitter. Itll have everything I wver wanted on it....out feed table, 6 way wedge, conveyer feeder to stacking area. Log lift, and an auto cycler.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  6. ValleyFirewood

    ValleyFirewood Addicted to ArboristSite

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    If you do a 6 way, it will need to be a knife and not a big fat wedge. The wedge A needs more power and B will cause everything to jam up.

    The knives on the processors for example are like the front part you have on the splitter and no wide wedge.

    If you split anything big or knarly, I'd keep it a single wedge, or have the ability to switch between wedges at least.
     
  7. nvr-enuf

    nvr-enuf ArboristSite Member

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    If you design the end right, you can split some knarly stuff

    The key is to stage when the knives come in contact with the log
     
  8. nvr-enuf

    nvr-enuf ArboristSite Member

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    See picture of my wedge

    Note how the vertical is first to hit - split

    A lot of thought went into my wedge and it has paid off
     

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  9. tg_weaver

    tg_weaver ArboristSite Member

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    This is what he ended up making. Not too bad. Works good. I might put a better edge on the wings. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  10. ValleyFirewood

    ValleyFirewood Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Good enough for testing and if it works you'll be able to take the time on the final version.
     
  11. gdavis24

    gdavis24 ArboristSite Member

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    We do household, stove length firewood, 16-18", all varieties. We get a nice production flow out of a Timberwolf 6, with 6-way slip on. Customers like Finished size is 2-8" cross section, some to start the fire, some to burn it slow. Maybe 70% of our rounds can go straight thru the 6-way, some in several passes, and done.
    Tricky parts: Bad rounds need to be thought about before pushing the 6 way. Wedge tends to pop off if pushed hard with crooked end cuts or bad grain, or damp conditions. Wedge needs to be quickly removable before you push in a bad round, like with crotches, crooked end cuts, bad grain, over 30" dia. Better to settle for one clean split on a single wedge to start, than get a bad round stuck in the 6 way wedge.
     

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