This is available at Lowe's.
562xp Hot start?
- Thread starter Andyshine77
- Start date
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Nice link. Very interesting! This might fire up a new round of "oil thread opinions"!!
CoreyB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Wow if it is that simple of a fix that would be nice.This is available at Lowe's.
Termite
Time To Launch
Nice link. Very interesting! This might fire up a new round of "oil thread opinions"!!
I don't want to be blamed if that should happen.
I believe husky will make significant design changes preventing this issue in future models. What's on offer now is a band aid solution to retrofit to existing saws in the market place and new saws built on the existing design. While it obviously helps the issue, I believe one can do more with a little effort & thought. Many two stokes in used in various applications suffer vapour lock related issues, its nothing new neither are the solutions to deal with it. Some heat shield tape cut and installed in the right places will of cause reduce heat soaking of the carb.
MountainHigh
Selective Tree whacker
ya I have some aluminum tape - going to give it a try! may try fire-walling fuel lines near major heat source as well.
Report back your results. That's great!
MountainHigh
Selective Tree whacker
Can I assume you gutted that 2nd muffler, ran with it and have had no heat issues with your 562xp?
MountainHigh
Selective Tree whacker
might take a while to find some hot hot days to really put it through its paces.Report back your results. That's great!
zogger
Tree Freak
I'll check in soon with my friend the local husky wrench. It hasn't been hot here, it has been HOT, with chunky style humidity. I'll ask if he has had many autotunes come in with hot start issues lately. We are not at high altitude though...
sunfish
Fish Head
I gutted the first muffler and did a crappy job so I sold it (the muffler). I did a mild mod on the 2nd one, didn't gut it completely. Saw runs just as strong, but isn't as loud. Never had Any issues with this saw.
MountainHigh
Selective Tree whacker
Any tips for opening the muffler up some? Looks like a tall order if trying to do it without cutting and welding.
sunfish
Fish Head
I drilled another outlet hole beside the org one under the deflector and a few more holes in the baffle plate. Clean and easy. No cutting & welding on this one.
I just use a die grinder and cut out the section of the baffle directly in front of the exhaust port. Puts the exhaust on the top side of the baffle and less heat gets trapped on the lower side therefore less to the cases as well. And either open up the existing exit to keep all the opening under a spark arrestor screen or braze in a tube depending on the customer and application. Actually drops the temperature of the entire saw. Will it keep the carb cooler?? Haven't measured a before & after scenario. Don't know. I haven't experienced the issue yet either though. All of mine have muffler mods and cut covers. Also looking at the air box of that saw. Looking to possibly vent to allow air in from a different location to help cool the carb. Most of the air is "pushed" in by the flywheel. All those wires and clips are right on that side. That can't help. Also If reflective tape is to be used, it would need to be on the cylinder side of that dam. AND the cylinder is really close to that plastic dam. Might be fun to mill some heat sinks for the top of the carb..
Would need air flow to cross them..
Would need air flow to cross them..
Just an observation here. I was looking over my 562 carefully just because. Now I noticed this on my 550 as well, and wasn't sure if I liked it. The fuel lines are extremely pliable, almost like they're made from silicone. I'm thinking I may try putting some small O-rings on every connection I can. My idea is the lines may be getting too soft in extreme heat. What do you guys think?
My goal is to try and find something other than just removing heat, that will resolve these issues without drastically modifying the saw from it's original state.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
My goal is to try and find something other than just removing heat, that will resolve these issues without drastically modifying the saw from it's original state.
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
CoreyB
Addicted to ArboristSite
It is definitely worth a try. I hear refrigerant O-rings hold up well to fuel and can be gotten in the size that should work to create a pretty robust seal. I wouldn't think it would cost more then a few bucks probably less if you have a friend in heating and cooling.
If you cover fuel lines in heat shield tape orings should not be needed. Can't remember if 5 series have impulse hose or direct from carb but that impulse relationship between carb & crankcase is how a lot of heat is transferred.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
As I speculated up thread, the strato air passages are connecting the transfers to the air valve next to the carb. Granted the air valve should be closed, but you've still got a channel from the cylinder to the carb area, right past any partitions.
Since the saws I have this problem with are not all strato, and given that the boiling point of fuel can be quite low, it's actually surprising to me that more saws don't have this issue. Andre's Echo 590 upthread was on the hairy edge, so it's just a matter of a few degrees - not much margin. I could believe a small thing might make the difference. In my case I have no doubt the thing that causes me to have more problems is E10, but without that the difference might just be a matter of different vent construction, or maybe those strato air passages.
MountainHigh
Selective Tree whacker
some good thoughts here which may lead to some real solutions ...
We'll need to start a rough invoice to Husky for troubleshooting services rendered
We'll need to start a rough invoice to Husky for troubleshooting services rendered
