562xp Hot start?

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Thanks but my saw came with a four year warranty so there's over two years left, since I've learned a little about the issue it's usually preventable by doing some easier work for a few minutes befor shutting the saw off, but I do plan to take it back sometime befor warranty runs out.

I can get you a price on the kit, if you don't want to take it back in to the dealer.
 
Just a quick update. I ran the 562 all I could last weekend, temps were in the mid 80's and overcast. The saw struggled to restart and starved for fuel. Heat is still likely the issues, at the bottom of a log the exhaust blow back and top cover was extremely hot.

The saw is going to Spike60 to see if he can find anything, sounds like a new carb might be in order.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 
*Finally getting hot here (delayed summer this year) but the woods are closed now (fire risk).

Andre' ... please let us know what Spike60 finds. I'm going to look at that new tank vent in the Fall when I can get back out into the woods.
 
I never owned these afflicted saws so never paid much mind to this thread. Friend of mine had a 20' Bur oak blow over on his greenhouse. I loaned him my (new to me) used 575. He called me 30 minutes later and said it will not restart from making 5-6 cuts in that trunk. Took me half and hour to drive over there .....saw started right up and ran fine until we finished the tree. I thought he was crazy but now I know what the prob is. It was 104 degrees in the shade. Prob 108-110 in the sun. Does anyone know if there are more reports of this hot start issue w/ the 575 ?
 
Heat soak issues are common with many two strokes, being a warm summer in the US many seem to be noticing this. I don't believe solutions are about replacing parts. They are not defected when they get heat soaked but rather cease to function normally. Many OEMs use heat protection under mufflers etc. While not always possible try to keep saw running in hot conditions.
 
Heat soak issues are common with many two strokes, being a warm summer in the US many seem to be noticing this. I don't believe solutions are about replacing parts. They are not defected when they get heat soaked but rather cease to function normally. Many OEMs use heat protection under mufflers etc. While not always possible try to keep saw running in hot conditions.
Very true. However I've cut in the heat for years and never experienced anything like this. Something isn't right, either with this saw, or the design of the saw. I've had several people pm me stating they have the exact same problem, and wondering if I or anyone else has found a solution. We'll see what happens.
 
Hello, I purchased a 562XP recently and talked this over with my shop. They only had new 2016 versions on hand - with the new, taller cylinder cover, which also has a bigger hole cut in it for heat dissipation. Perhaps these can be retro'd onto previous models?

I won't be seeing any heat issues till next year of course but in discussing the problem, the dealer suggested the old time solution to vapor locking engines is to open the fuel cap immediately when the fuel runs out and then to leave it open for several minutes after fueling, to let heat escape from the fuel itself. Though this would leave the cut-out around the cylinder facing the ground, which might be cooler than the air, but might not be.

It's been a long time since I have even thought about vapor lock, but that all made sense.

That swept back cylinder cover did look cool ... and still does on my 550XP
 
Hello, I purchased a 562XP recently and talked this over with my shop. They only had new 2016 versions on hand - with the new, taller cylinder cover, which also has a bigger hole cut in it for heat dissipation. Perhaps these can be retro'd onto previous models?

I won't be seeing any heat issues till next year of course but in discussing the problem, the dealer suggested the old time solution to vapor locking engines is to open the fuel cap immediately when the fuel runs out and then to leave it open for several minutes after fueling, to let heat escape from the fuel itself. Though this would leave the cut-out around the cylinder facing the ground, which might be cooler than the air, but might not be.

It's been a long time since I have even thought about vapor lock, but that all made sense.

That swept back cylinder cover did look cool ... and still does on my 550XP
I doubt that would really help. The fuel seems to be boiling in the carb or the lines. The fuel pump is in the carb, it is trying to pull fuel from the tank and it cannot pull vapor.

If I were to design a fuel system to deal with vapor lock caused by heat soak and fuel that boils at a low temp, I would put the pump in the tank so it could push liquid fuel. I've been considering just that - using the top cover and pump diaphragm off a WT, mounted to a plate with two holes that match the flap valves and fuel barbs pressed in. It would need an impulse line too. This could be put into the tank so it would push fuel to the carb. The pump in the carb could probably be bypassed. On my 42cc Poulan the fuel cap opening is quite large and I might be able to get it in the tank, plus it has a second purge bulb hole to the tank that could be used for the impulse line. However, I'm not sure the pump would work when the tank pressure was high and I've been too lazy to look into it.

Still, designing a push type fuel system would be trivial for the manufacturers, but I get the feeling their engineers don't know much of anything about the fuel systems they buy from Walbro and ZAMA, and don't understand what the issue is.
 
While I have never had hot start issues with my 555, while cleaning the air filter the other day, I had the shroud off and took a good look at the layed back cylinder design. With exhaust flange pointing down on a steep angle and postition of carb so high compared with traditional designs I can see perhaps why this design is prone to heat soak issues. It seems any residual crankcase/cylinder heat wants to rise to the carb through intake/impulse relationship. I can't see Spike being able to change this through factory approved method. I think the design itself is at fault and not a component failure problem. I'd go to town protecting the carb with a $10 roll of quality heat shield tape. Just my 2cents. I'd like to hear what Spike is thinking in regards to this PITA issue.
 
Update on the saw.

The clutch side crank seal had a small slow leak under vacume. Bob had issues installing a new seal, he believes the new updated bearings may have updated seals as well, even though the part numbers are still the same. In the end Husky sent Bob a new short block, as he wasted a bag of seals trying to get one to seat correctly. As of now it's still unclear if it's a wrong part issue, or something was up with the case or crank. The saw was ran a few time and he tried his best to simulate the issues I had, the weather was in the low 80's, the saw ran just fine. Obviously the conditions were different, but there's nothing we can do about that. The real test will likely come next summer, so it will be awhile before that happens.;) I will get some time on the saw in the next week or so, plenty of standing dead Ash trees around these days.

I am more than pleased with the way Bob aka Spike60 handled this, he's very professional, and he went out of his way to get this squared away. Even though I'm sure Bob loves these types of threads.:givebeer:

Was this the cause of the hot start issues? again I really don't know. Maybe the saw was running a little Lean/hot causing the fuel delivery problems? I have to come clean, I still have my doubts, and in the back of my little brain I'm still thinking a design issue. Time will tell, and I'll be totally upfront with the results one way or the other. I really hope these saws are just having qc issues, as that's an easier problem to correct, and I do like the saw.

Andre.
 
Well glad to hear it's coming home and not a surprise Bob took good care of you.

I'm no expert on AT but it's my understanding that the 562's are factory tuned right to the point of perfect or maybe slightly to the lean side of perfect. And like you said that leak may or may not have contributed to the problem but it certainly wasn't improving anything for you!
 
I have had this issue twice. the last time it was about 60F out. I could not get it re-started for the life of me. A few days later I ran it a bunch and found if I didn't touch the choke, primer bulb or decomp it fired right even after sitting for 30 minutes while skidding logs out. I don't think the fuel was ever boiling it looked fine in the bulb but when it would not start I had ran hard shut it off with the choke by mistake.
 

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