cody bi
ArboristSite Lurker
Whats the difference in american tree gaffs and european gaffs?
European gaffs vs American gaffs
- Thread starter cody bi
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JeffGu
Antagonist/Heckler
I personally couldn't get used to the Europeans to save my life. I think you have to put a little extra side motion in your step to get them to stick good.
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cody bi
ArboristSite Lurker
Ive never used them but i was interest in trying them out. Looks like it would put more pressure on the side of your legs and ankle
earlthegoat2
ArboristSite Guru
With the short Americans people often cock their knee out a bit when planting their step. Ive asked some linemen about it and they tend to agree even if it is a subconscious motion anymore.
Just saying that if you have to put more side motion into the step with the Europeans that I have witnessed guys putting a difference variation of side motion into their steps when using the short Americans. The long Americans are good all around gaffs but are really only needed on thicker barked trees more commonly found out west.
Just saying that if you have to put more side motion into the step with the Europeans that I have witnessed guys putting a difference variation of side motion into their steps when using the short Americans. The long Americans are good all around gaffs but are really only needed on thicker barked trees more commonly found out west.
cody bi
ArboristSite Lurker
So around around South Carolina i should be okay with pole gaffs
JeffGu
Antagonist/Heckler
I found that with the euro gaffs, you have to use a slightly more sideways entry, but your feet end up right against the tree, so that was very stable and comfortable when standing in them. But, it takes some sideways force to get them back out, too... and that takes a bit of getting used to. I didn't notice any additional pain or strain from using them, but with all three types there are quirks and frustration, sometimes. They all seem to have a place, so I don't regret having them all... I just don't think any of them are ideal for all trees. We have cottonwoods, so the long ones are really good on those. The short ones are really good in the silver maples. The euro ones seem to work best on stuff in between the two.
Someday, there will be a design that works on everything. Maybe. Until then, all you can do is try what's available and hope one of them fits your needs.
Someday, there will be a design that works on everything. Maybe. Until then, all you can do is try what's available and hope one of them fits your needs.
jomoco
Tree Freak
Some day over the rainbow....Jomoco
Interesting a spring loaded greaseable apparatus
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jomoco
Tree Freak
Kinda looks like titanium don't it?I call them innoculators, they extend n retract from 1.75 inches to 2.25.
They suck in softwoods like palms, but are fantastic in extremely hardwoods, like petrified dead eucs, which I made them for specifically.
Not an all around general gaff by any means, but great for hard deadwood.
No stomping required!
Jomoco
jomoco
Tree Freak
This 3/8ths inner needle configuration's my candidate to replace standard American tree gaffs.I expect they'll penetrate deeper and retract easier, with a stiff enough spring, and enough grease.
Jomoco
jomoco
Tree Freak
Bad thing to gaff yourself with!
jomoco
Tree Freak
There are times when it's a good thing to get good n ticked off enough to actually do something about it!
So yu buy the pricey new titanium pole gaffs from Buckingham, and being a production removal only climber, are in need of replacement gaffs about 6 months later, cuz yu wear em on the ground like corks, climbin all over fat logs dicing them up.
But 75-80 bucks a set!
That's more like rentin at 150 a year!
What's needed is the ability to sharpen without losing gaff length.
A round 3/8ths grade aircraft bolts at six inches is only about 8 bucks each, or fifteen bucks a set!
That's way more bueno....
Jomoco
So yu buy the pricey new titanium pole gaffs from Buckingham, and being a production removal only climber, are in need of replacement gaffs about 6 months later, cuz yu wear em on the ground like corks, climbin all over fat logs dicing them up.
But 75-80 bucks a set!
That's more like rentin at 150 a year!
What's needed is the ability to sharpen without losing gaff length.
A round 3/8ths grade aircraft bolts at six inches is only about 8 bucks each, or fifteen bucks a set!
That's way more bueno....
Jomoco
tramp bushler
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I don't know about that. It is true the longer shank is better in thick bark. But I've found that if the tree has burls like a white spruce. Or is knobby. That long gaffs are not only easier to work in . But also safer. A real limby conifer or a poplar or cottonwood is a son of a gun to work with short gaffs. I always have to look at where I'm spuring. Where as with tree gaffs , Klien, Bashlin, or Buckingham. I can just take the step I need to .
Rick Hammer
ArboristSite Lurker
I used a lot of different brand hooks.The thirty years that i climbed(no more) was in Northern Ca, and Oregon,Redwood Fir country,so i always had the longer gaffs,Buckinghams,Kleins, Brooks,and my favorite were the Bashlin Aluminum Alloy tree gaffs.It just seems that the way you positioned your torso and the way you stood on your hooks i got so use to what i was using,i didn't want to change.In the old days,did a lot of free climbing,yeah not smart,but either way it is no fun gaffing out,rope around you or not.Use what you feel the safest first and the most comfortable.
