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FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Bedford T, Sep 15, 2017.

  1. Warddc

    Warddc ArboristSite Lurker

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    The oiler shaft does not spin all the way around with just a finger before installation. It stops rotating when the pump shaft moves full left at the peak of the little cam.
     
  2. X 66 Stang347 X

    X 66 Stang347 X ArboristSite Operative

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    That’s it then. I had one oil pump I ordered along with a blue saw that worked for about 15 min. But I have some that are still working for months. I doubt they’ll ask for it back but you could take it apart and look. Could have some casting flash or shaving in it. These two quit working pretty quick [​IMG]
     
  3. Lewie

    Lewie New Member

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    Hi there, this is my first build of a chainsaw. Been watching a lot of 660 builds on YouTube to get this thing together. I have run into a problem and I think I need to tap out the holes for the oiler bolts. These holes are drilled out but look like they were never tapped. I found a pack of 6 screws of 4mm x 12mm long that I think is supposed to be used for the 2 bolts. People online say they wish they could make these bigger bolts, but im just curious if this has happened to anyone and what size I should tap these to. I havent done anything yet and this is how it came to me from hlsupply. Thanks in advance.
     

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  4. Warddc

    Warddc ArboristSite Lurker

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    i just finished my 660 build up. My holes were tapped. I actually didnt find any quality issues with my 660. the only small thing I had was that the oiler needed a little polishing where the shaft and adjustment cam meet. Also a little grease was needed. Other than that, all the usual issues people point out were not there.
     
  5. X 66 Stang347 X

    X 66 Stang347 X ArboristSite Operative

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    I would go with the 4mm if I could. Going to 5mm is your last chance since that’s about as big as you can go.
    Chase the hole with a #30 drill bit to the correct depth then tap to 4mm 0.70. [​IMG]
     
  6. Warddc

    Warddc ArboristSite Lurker

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    Here is my 660 build and the joncutter I got as well. Only updates I made were a WJ-76 Walbro carb and Stihl trigger and switch shaft to get fast idle to work.

    98338638-94E3-4B91-B7D2-9443EC767955.jpeg
     
  7. dmitriy

    dmitriy ArboristSite Lurker

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    Quick question:
    Anyone run into a problem where the kill switch doesn't shut the saw off? (metered it and it seems the the 2 leads coming off the coil always have continuity - new coil?)
     
  8. Mark68

    Mark68 ArboristSite Lurker

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    Anyone ever find car parts grown inside a tree? Found the rotor button from a car distributor in the middle of a tree I was milling.
     

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  9. ammoaddict

    ammoaddict Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Did the fast idle work on your kit?

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
     
  10. Warddc

    Warddc ArboristSite Lurker

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    No. I bought the OEM switch and trigger.
     
  11. ammoaddict

    ammoaddict Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Thanks. I was hoping they had that problem resolved. I was thinking about getting another one. How was your squish?

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
     
  12. Warddc

    Warddc ArboristSite Lurker

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    0.023" with gasket. I've built 2 660's recently. only parts i replaced with OEM were decomp, oil cap, switch and trigger.
     
  13. ammoaddict

    ammoaddict Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Well, at least they got the cylinders better. Mine was like .065 with gasket. I was aggravated with all the problems I had with mine so I put it away for a while. Decided to get it out the other day and put fuel in it and it cranked up after about 8 pulls and ran good. I cut off a stump with it and it did great. I buried the 25" bar in another tree noodling cut. It ran strong. I put a hyway cylinder and popup piston in it. I looked at it the next day and fuel had leaked all over the handle. Looks like it's coming from the elbow in the tank. So, another problem. Anyway I thought about building another one and was wondering what problems they had fixed. Is yours the orange covers or blue? Did you have to shim your chain tensioner? Thanks

    Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
     
  14. Warddc

    Warddc ArboristSite Lurker

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    mine are orange. Chain tensioner worked fine without shimming
     
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  15. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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  16. Brian Thacker

    Brian Thacker ArboristSite Guru

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    I meant to put this in the MAC area. Sorry. But thank you.

    I have not had the MS660 out in about a month. That saw has so many hours on it, it is not funny. It was on loan to a tree service for a few months. I cut wood for my house and shop and a couple neighbors. I also cut wood for the Greene County Firewood Ministry every weekend August thru April. Very few weekends pass without it being used during this season or me out cutting wood for myself or neighbors. I virtually never give it any care. It rolls around in the back of my truck or side X side. I have went thru many chains with it. It never fails to start, never fails to cut. I dropped it about 20 feet out of a tree once. I have really gave this saw a hard life and it has been great. It has all Farmer Tech compoints. I know many of you do not elect to use several components that come in the kits, but mine is all Farmer Tech. Bearings and all without any failures. Even a big bore kit.

    I had it with me today, but did not use it. A rare occasion.

    Now watch me jinks myself...HaHaHa

    Brian
     
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  17. Mark68

    Mark68 ArboristSite Lurker

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    I had the same problem with gas leaking from around the elbow. I've seen others talk about this problem and recommended getting and oem elbow, but it's around $12 I think. I took mine out and saw it had flashing on the sides. I used a hobby knife and sandpaper to smooth it out and haven't anymore leaks after about 5 gallons of gas through the saw.
     
  18. BlamJam

    BlamJam New Member

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    I've been assembling my first MS660 and measured squish to be 0.010", that's with the 0.017" gasket (but no Hylomar)!
    I noticed several pages back that someone had 0.007, so mine isn't the worst.
    What is the 'ideal' solution in this case? To remove material from the squish band?

    I don't have access to any metal mills, so the only other realistic solution would be to make a 0.8mm/0.031" gasket up myself to replace it and gain 0.014" to get ~ 0.024" squish.

    What are the potential issues with this, in laymans terms, regarding ports/timing?
    (Cylinder photo attached - is it worth the bother to do the piston+sandpaper+drill idea to sand the squish band?)
     

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  19. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    Hylomar is not suitable for the cylinder, the case yes, use something like dirko if needed. I think your calipers are off.

    chainsaw kits and packing lists
    http://thechainsawkitguy.com
    http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
     
  20. BlamJam

    BlamJam New Member

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    Thanks Bedford,
    I'm confident enough with the readings from my calipers being true. Checked, benchmarked, remeasured, 2nd calipers.
    It's just a lot of squish.
    Other suggestions?
     

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