FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

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Just stopped by the local dealer and got some prices, are these in line with what you guys are paying?
$7.00 #9512 003 3281 - OEM piston bearing
$21.00 #1122 034 1500 - wrist pin OEM
$14.80 #1122 160 5400 - Brake Band
$8.40 #1122 160 5500 - Brake Tension Spring
$16.69 #1128 020 9400 - Decomp Valve

Fuel System:
$2.59 #1122 353 9200 - Gromet
$5.89 #0000 350 5802 - Vent
$0.49 #4224 122 3900 - Elbow Connector
$15.40 #1124 358 7700 - Fuel Tank line
$7.29 #0000 350 0509 - OEM fuel cap

#1122 025 2200 - decomp plug
$7.20 #9512 933 2381 - Clutch Bearing
#1128 160 5000 - Brake Lever
#1122 195 0400 - Starter Rope rotor
#1122 190 3400 - Elastostart Hangle Assembly
#1122 351 0901 - Tank Guard part

Bedford T said:
Couple of things, the worm gear should be added and the carb from mittys.

On the cylinder. If you are replacing the other parts that means you care. You want to feel like that saw is dependable. Something to really be proud of and use for a long time.

I had never had a new oem quailty cylinder in my hand until recently. Had used ones when working on a saw. But I was able to put the meteor side by side with the farmertec and it was remarkable the differences.

Money does not grow on trees but if you do it now before prices go up you are going to have a great saw with that topend.

If the deadline was not coming up waiting if financials we're in favor would be ok. But plowing head, you will be done. You will be ahead of the game. You can come hang out here and help other people get where you are. Yours will be working.

So your decision should yes if you can afford too.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
Click to expand...

Thank you, got the carb from mittys already. Will look into worm gear and definitely look into the cylinder piston kit!
 
dmitriy said:
Just stopped by the local dealer and got some prices, are these in line with what you guys are paying?
$7.00 #9512 003 3281 - OEM piston bearing
$21.00 #1122 034 1500 - wrist pin OEM
$14.80 #1122 160 5400 - Brake Band
$8.40 #1122 160 5500 - Brake Tension Spring
$16.69 #1128 020 9400 - Decomp Valve

Fuel System:
$2.59 #1122 353 9200 - Gromet
$5.89 #0000 350 5802 - Vent
$0.49 #4224 122 3900 - Elbow Connector
$15.40 #1124 358 7700 - Fuel Tank line
$7.29 #0000 350 0509 - OEM fuel cap

#1122 025 2200 - decomp plug
$7.20 #9512 933 2381 - Clutch Bearing
#1128 160 5000 - Brake Lever
#1122 195 0400 - Starter Rope rotor
#1122 190 3400 - Elastostart Hangle Assembly
#1122 351 0901 - Tank Guard part



Thank you, got the carb from mittys already. Will look into worm gear and definitely look into the cylinder piston kit!
Click to expand...
Yep those prices are pretty much the same.
 
I just spent some time with mine. It sure takes a while to break it in. I was soaking wet by the time I gently ran a 1/3 tank out. I had to quit. My bar was dry. So my worm is not working either.

That should fix mine, no more messing with it.

It had enough power, I did not have to run it wide open to cut rounds. Really happy

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Just measured the piston again (somehow the previous measurements are incorrect)
Piston:
Top (ring) 53.81-83mm
Bottom (skirt area) 53.97mm

dmitriy said:
Got my kit in the mail, let the fun begin.
Measure the piston / cylinder & ring gap:
Piston 53.95mm mostly consistent
Cylinder top and mid ~53.97-53.98mm bottom skirt ~54.01-54.02mm HMMM maybe thats why they suck
Ring gap: .3mm & .35mm measured mid cylinder

Anyone have input on this other then run it for a bit then check or get the meteor kit?
Click to expand...

smokey7 said:
If your measurements are goot that has too much clearance at the bottom. Thats probably why alot of guys are getting weird wear patterns at the bottom of the intake skirt. Ie piston is rocking in the bore. Do me a favor take the piston no rings put it in the bore and use feeler gauges to measure the clearance then flip the piston upside down and measure again. I wouldnt want anymore then .005
Click to expand...

So here are the measurements I got with piston in cylinder all the way in (so measurement take at about 1/2 up the bore), no rings, piston pushed to 1 side and measured with feeler gauge on the opposite side:
Right side up clearance (piston top to cylinder top) is about 0.004"
Up side down clearance (piston skirt to cylinder top) is about 0.007"

Clearly the cylinder & piston are BOTH off.
Hmmm to bother contacting Huztl on this & the brake band (missing the pin as usual)?
 
dmitriy said:
Just measured the piston again (somehow the previous measurements are incorrect)
Piston:
Top (ring) 53.81-83mm
Bottom (skirt area) 53.97mm





So here are the measurements I got with piston in cylinder all the way in (so measurement take at about 1/2 up the bore), no rings, piston pushed to 1 side and measured with feeler gauge on the opposite side:
Right side up clearance (piston top to cylinder top) is about 0.004"
Up side down clearance (piston skirt to cylinder top) is about 0.007"

Clearly the cylinder & piston are BOTH off.
Hmmm to bother contacting Huztl on this & the brake band (missing the pin as usual)?
Click to expand...
Don't even get me started on the pin. They saved a little money on something as important as that. Idiots. I bitched they just sent the pin. Pin should be made into band

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Bedford T said:
I just spent some time with mine. It sure takes a while to break it in. I was soaking wet by the time I gently ran a 1/3 tank out. I had to quit. My bar was dry. So my worm is not working either.

That should fix mine, no more messing with it.

It had enough power, I did not have to run it wide open to cut rounds. Really happy

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
Click to expand...
I'm glad you like it it should be a good saw for you for a good long time.
 
Bedford T said:
I just spent some time with mine. It sure takes a while to break it in. I was soaking wet by the time I gently ran a 1/3 tank out. I had to quit. My bar was dry. So my worm is not working either.

That should fix mine, no more messing with it.

It had enough power, I did not have to run it wide open to cut rounds. Really happy

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
Click to expand...
Dumb weormgear they just suck I take it that the one you have is a FarmerTec I throw mine in the trash ones I put in the oem Stihl.
 
No oil hose in stock but found the worm @ 3rd dealer. I am going to get a Oregon rim kit. I have a oem clutch bearing.
39cbdcb9569399e56cbf9dbb33a15360.jpg


chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 
Well I got a chance to look at the saw again after work. I took the clutch cover off and was going to pull the clutch but then I thought I would Crank It Up and see if any oil is coming out. It was pumping oil. I put it back together, fired it back up and let it run a little bit. I revved it up a few times and it is slinging a little oil off the bar and chain. It is a new farmertec bar and chain and the chain was extremely tight in the bar at first. It loosened up after a few minutes and I could turn the Chain by hand. So it is oiling I'm just uncertain if it's enough oil or not at this point. I cut a couple small cookies and it cut very well. I was Dripping sweat so I put it back up. It was 92 degrees here in the foothills of North Carolina.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
ammoaddict said:
Well I got a chance to look at the saw again after work. I took the clutch cover off and was going to pull the clutch but then I thought I would Crank It Up and see if any oil is coming out. It was pumping oil. I put it back together, fired it back up and let it run a little bit. I revved it up a few times and it is slinging a little oil off the bar and chain. It is a new farmertec bar and chain and the chain was extremely tight in the bar at first. It loosened up after a few minutes and I could turn the Chain by hand. So it is oiling I'm just uncertain if it's enough oil or not at this point. I cut a couple small cookies and it cut very well. I was Dripping sweat so I put it back up. It was 92 degrees here in the foothills of North Carolina.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I was out in it here mocksville breaking mine in. I got soaking wet in no time. Crazy weather

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy
 

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