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FarmerTec MS200t Chainsaw Build Thread

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Bedford T, Oct 6, 2018.

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  1. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    I just noticed the screw felt long. Good call
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  2. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    That is 12mm not 16. That could cracked the case. I learned to feel. Lucky I had two 12's left. So folks be careful.


    [​IMG][​IMG]

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  3. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    That had nothing to do with me fitting it. It failed because of that crooked handle. It weaken it. I changed handle and next time I picked it up it came apart. Buffer was fixed to case.
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  4. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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  5. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    It's been a long wait. I bought an aftermarket carb, returned, then bought a oem online which was a mistake, returned. So I went to my dealer and it took about 10 more days and it finally arrived today.

    I had a few small parts that I had to finish and did so then installed the carb. I went to start it and pulled and pulled. Nothing.

    You know the first start kit jitters. I tested my fuel system and then, I should have started with the carb, but I re-checked my pressure. All good. Hot spark. Then I pulled the plug and it was dry as a bone.

    I tested the carb inlet pressure and it fell quickly. SOB, just my luck. I will call them tomorrow, I am not fixing a 85$ carb. I am not even curious. But sure look forward to getting it going.

    I notice my clutch cover is not seating at the back of the saw. I am thinking that the cover/brake band is tight on the sprocket and when I get a tank done it should loosen up and sit down. Otherwise it looks sharp.

    I also noticed the plate that sits on top of the carb had a lot of plastic hair & chips inside of the hole where the filter cover attaches through and locks on that pin. I guess that's where the Stihl design has the fatal flaw. Plastic chips off and is sucked down the throat of the carb and promptly screws the engine up.

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  6. TreeJoe

    TreeJoe ArboristSite Member

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    hello I have followed along and built a few saws following your advice and hhave been pleased. the 2 660 and the 440 are worked everyday and hold up great. I bought this saw and put it together. I took all your advice and did find the changes gace me a good 220t. I can not get it to start.

    the odd thing is it should start. plug is bone dry. so I took my carb off and took the recoil off, put my pressure tester togther and put a cone on the tube. stuck my finger down its throat while pressing the cone down inside the impulse and watched the dial as I spun the flywheel by hand. it did move. not much but it did move so my diapham should be pumping fuel.

    if I liquor it up it will fire and run I have to put it down its thoat though. it soon quits cause its not getting any fuel. before you ask yes I tested it before I slipped it in that tight dress.

    this is my second stihl carb. never tried the carb that came with it. my saws work so i can not play around. I
    put some pressure on the fuel spount and it would not hold. they replaced it with this one. I installed it. its no fun to take that carb loose.

    what else should be checked? some of you guys are experts on this saw. I do not know what to do. this is the best carb. thanks for any help
     
  7. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    You did not see my post? I am having same trouble. Weird. Must be a run of bad carbs. That was a good idea on blocking the intake to test the impulse. I don't have a clue what to say. Yet.

    On another matter, the clutch cover sat a little high. I found the inside cover over the spring was a little too thick and dremeled it down and it fits great now. Just a little off and the sprocket goes fully inside now.



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  8. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    One thing more. Usually when a carb fails I replace it. I never deep dived in them. My understanding is they are hard to fix when things like check valves and piston pumps get replaced they usually still don't work. The only test I can do is to do the fuel inlet because I never made any of the adapters to pull a vacuum. The inlet leaking down normally causes it to leak fuel and flood it. Sounds like there is more to it in these two cases because it's dry.

    The instinct to check the impulse is spot on. Don't open the carb up unless you get permission that way the dealer has no complaint. It's a shame we can't take the saws in there and throw it up on the counter and tell them they have a problem lol

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  9. TreeJoe

    TreeJoe ArboristSite Member

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    no I did not read. I hit it running. I have not posted in a while working to hard. I need this saw to work. The other puzzles I put together work great. the stihl linkages make this one operate perfect. the choke shuts off good. I seen where you were trying to get that old 380 running. I never once thought about those two things. But I sure never bought one. Does no one else talk in here? I see what you mean on the cover I will sand that down some. thanks for all you do, think of a fix for this. there could be more than one thing messed up in the carb it is sure not my saw. I paid close attention putting it together.
     
  10. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    I am sure you did fine. Testing it answers a lot of questions. Yes on the 380. When you have something that will not run it drives you crazy. I have stayed after it over a long time period. The plug on the 200t is dry so you know what the problem is. It will not run with a dry cylinder. No visible reason for the 380 to not run. Today a guy asked to buy the 380, I asked him how much I had to pay lol

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  11. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    I got an idea let's put the kit carb on it and try it. Then take it off and open it up and see if fuel is getting inside. I own it don't have to ask permission to open it up. If it is wet we know the pump is not working on the oem. Do that and report back. Lol ok I thought of something.

    If you did what I did, no way there is a reason for a dry plug other than the carb. The impulse drives the carb to pump the mix. I had my filter off hoping to see some spray and never saw anything. The impulse hose turns perfectly and routes to the handle, no kinks and both sides were open.



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  12. TreeJoe

    TreeJoe ArboristSite Member

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    Good one. ok.
     
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  13. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    Joe, on my end it is the brand spanking new oem carb and this is super rare, we know Stihl the best. How I know, I got a carb from a guy that wanted me to try his brand and I had forgot about it, I had stuck it in bucket with extra parts. Anyway I installed it and it fired 1st pull... It ran on the third pull.

    Sounds great. This thing is awesome. I gotta buy a bar for it. I am out of extras.

    It's no fun pulling on it and it not cranking after you do all that work so I know how you feel but there is light at the end of the tunnel for you.

    This is why building is so satisfying to me. We solve problems.

    Another guy said he got kit carb running at 1 1/2 out. Maybe run your both needles in and back it out just to exercise them and then when installed shoot some carb cleaner in the throat to wet it. Then fire it up. Let me know what happens.

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  14. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    Thought of this, Maybe to really prepare take top and bottom off the FarmerTec carb and spray the ports with carb cleaner, I never did that and maybe should have. You want it to fire and you don't want more delay

    I know it's a pain to mount and unmount. The worst part to me is getting the fuel line lined up to put on the inlet it's usually slippery.



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  15. TreeJoe

    TreeJoe ArboristSite Member

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    I did what you said and it runs. I wan the Stil carb on it.the 1 1/2 dont work for me. glad I did not throw it away. it does sound good. thanks for helping me.


     
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  16. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    It helped me too and anyone else that runs into it. Happy building.

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  17. 67L36Driver

    67L36Driver Tree Freak

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    [​IMG]
    Use a ketchup bottle from Walmart to force feed the carb. Saves lots of pulling to get fuel up in it.

    Some of the larger saws will suck the bottle near flat when it runs.
     
  18. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    That's a great idea. I will pick one up. Since I am mostly building saws I need to use the onboard circuit some because it rules out other problems while we debug the saw. But soon as that's done it's a ketchup bottle all the way. Lol

    That works the other way too. Allows you to isolate a problem + makes it convenient and quick to change out the carb.



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  19. Bedford T

    Bedford T the1chainsawguy

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    My oem carb fired the saw up. The replacement was fine on my end. It is not a pandemic.

    My oiler is not oiling. Since I am just getting my carb it has not been used enough to prime the pump. I just ran it a few minutes and it's dry. An OEM oiler, oem hose, FarmerTec worm. I think I have a spare FarmerTec worm for my 192t. I will try it first since it's simplest.

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  20. 67L36Driver

    67L36Driver Tree Freak

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    Use a squirt can filled with bar oil to prime the line/passages.

    They don’t pump air for spit.
     
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