FarmerTec MS200t What's in the Box

[Bedford T]

Tonight @ 8 eastern the video with the side handle and choke linkage side by side comparison is scheduled to be published.

That side handle is not surprising because lonewolf told us what to expect but seeing it is interesting. But replacing it takes the stress off the av and makes it like the legendary saw, I should have seen that right off

The choke rod is major different. Considering it controls the carb that's a bad thing. The springs need to be replaced too. So actually the handle shell is ok but everything inside needs replacing, I ordered the balance for mine. The springs, rod, screws were 30$. It will be interesting to see how far off the throttle rods and springs will be off.

I go into detail. But the linkages being out of whack effects the carb operation enough to where it could make you think it's the carbs fault and it may not be. I got a week until the other parts arrive at that point the control handle is Stihl minus shell so I have the kit carb and a "improved" carb. I should have a actual clone. That should wrap this up and it should show it in operation. I will add up what I got in it but it feels like 180$ and basically that's the rubber, screws and inside control handle. I paid 30$ for a new oem handle, 60$ at the dealer. Still less than a used one around here that goes for 650$ and up.

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[grizz55chev]

Tonight @ 8 eastern the video with the side handle and choke linkage side by side comparison is scheduled to be published.

That side handle is not surprising because lonewolf told us what to expect but seeing it is interesting. But replacing it takes the stress off the av and makes it like the legendary saw, I should have seen that right off

The choke rod is major different. Considering it controls the carb that's a bad thing. The springs need to be replaced too. So actually the handle shell is ok but everything inside needs replacing, I ordered the balance for mine. The springs, rod, screws were 30$. It will be interesting to see how far off the throttle rods and springs will be off.

I go into detail. But the linkages being out of whack effects the carb operation enough to where it could make you think it's the carbs fault and it may not be. I got a week until the other parts arrive at that point the control handle is Stihl minus shell so I have the kit carb and a "improved" carb. I should have a actual clone. That should wrap this up and it should show it in operation. I will add up what I got in it but it feels like 180$ and basically that's the rubber, screws and inside control handle. I paid 30$ for a new oem handle, 60$ at the dealer. Still less than a used one around here that goes for 650$ and up.

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Still a polished turd if you plan on using it to make money!

 

[Derf]

Rather than in the oven, I would suggest leaving it in a pot of boiling water. Water is a better convector of heat than air, and since the temp is usually below 300 degrees, there's less risk of burning or melting the plastic.

 

[Ketchup]

 

[Bedford T]

Those videos are the same?

You are bound to have a kink in that fuel line and that vent will not function correctly. You oil hose is collasped and won't put out right amount of oil and the included manifold will burn your little engine up.

My fuel tank did not leak. All tanks sold before kits leaked in that area.

I show those things in my videos so anyone that wants a saw that will last can avoid those. For instance I showed the oil hose bending in place and the fuel hose bending reducing flow. Builders don't accept that. Fix it.

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[Ketchup]

Sorry abouth the techno bumble. This should have been the first link.

As mentioned in this video, oiler and line are now Stihl OEM.

The fuel line and vent are not kinked. I made sure many times. That's why the vent line is routed under the air box. If it had come with the "shower head" style vent I would have shortened the line during install. I think the problem here is the vent itself.

 

[X 66 Stang347 X]

Those videos are the same?

You are bound to have a kink in that fuel line and that vent will not function correctly. You oil hose is collasped and won't put out right amount of oil and the included manifold will burn your little engine up.

My fuel tank did not leak. All tanks sold before kits leaked in that area.

I show those things in my videos so anyone that wants a saw that will last can avoid those. For instance I showed the oil hose bending in place and the fuel hose bending reducing flow. Builders don't accept that. Fix it.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
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I’m thinking about trying one of these kits. With all the rubber lines replaced and the oem boot would you say it’s a good runner now?
Seeing what parts I would need to finish one. You said the cylinder looks like it’s good to go. Thanks

 

[Bedford T]

Sorry abouth the techno bumble. This should have been the first link.

As mentioned in this video, oiler and line are now Stihl OEM.

The fuel line and vent are not kinked. I made sure many times. That's why the vent line is routed under the air box. If it had come with the "shower head" style vent I would have shortened the line during install. I think the problem here is the vent itself.

If you would have used oem they would not have kinked. When you pulled the vent off you are pulling it off a FarmerTec hose and yes the vent is a problem. I can see it the hose clearly. My comments were about what I saw.

On the boot and the holder you deserve what you got. There was plenty of discussion here on those. Lol.



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[Bedford T]

I’m thinking about trying one of these kits. With all the rubber lines replaced and the oem boot would you say it’s a good runner now?
Seeing what parts I would need to finish one. You said the cylinder looks like it’s good to go. Thanks

Mine has not run a lick. My oem carb should be here Tuesday. I am sure it's ready to go. Replace the rings, hoses, manifold,, support, vent and everything inside the handle and it's going be a perfect saw. You likely have a real coil and oiler, worm.

Dave had a AM carb I was going to try but he never got the carbs in so I waited long as I could stand it.

If you get a bad tank I got a good one I will send you. You should be fine and happy as me with it. It pains me to see it mis-handled. Things have changed

Oh and the two odd screws on the ft bk av's.
And the carb studs we're too short, I actual replaced most of the others. The back odd one concerned me the most.

Outside of control handle is excellent, side handle needs replacement

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[Ketchup]

If you would have used oem they would not have kinked. When you pulled the vent off you are pulling it off a FarmerTec hose and yes the vent is a problem. I can see it the hose clearly. My comments were about what I saw.

On the boot and the holder you deserve what you got. There was plenty of discussion here on those. Lol.



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I saw no harm in putting the FT parts to a hard test and still don't. I know most of the issues I have have been discussed, but a little documentation and confirmation of problems is a good thing.

Many parts problems with these saws are like my tank: some people get good ones, some people don't. My tank leaked like a sieve. My throttle linkages seem totally fine, my side handle is off, but not horrible. My boot melted on the 4th tank. My oiler didn't last that long. My flippy caps are perfect and seal great. My cylinder seems really good. Case and seals hold pressure no problem. Etc, etc, etc.

Just trying to give people information. I'm not trash talking the saw. Everybody will have to find there own way if they build one of these. Hopefully they will add information as well.

 

[Bedford T]

I saw no harm in putting the FT parts to a hard test and still don't. I know most of the issues I have have been discussed, but a little documentation and confirmation of problems is a good thing.

Many parts problems with these saws are like my tank: some people get good ones, some people don't. My tank leaked like a sieve. My throttle linkages seem totally fine, my side handle is off, but not horrible. My boot melted on the 4th tank. My oiler didn't last that long. My flippy caps are perfect and seal great. My cylinder seems really good. Case and seals hold pressure no problem. Etc, etc, etc.

Just trying to give people information. I'm not trash talking the saw. Everybody will have to find there own way if they build one of these. Hopefully they will add information as well.

The saws operation depends on the parts functioning correctly. The handle for example that you are satisfied with is putting enormous pressure on that bottom av. It's possible it could fail and cause you to lose control of the saw.

There are lots of things that are important here and when a guy blows through with no idea, thinking he is testing the parts I don't want someone miss reading something and getting hurt so when you act like something is ok and it's not I am going to call you out on it.

It sounds like in your film you are discovering these short falls and your not.

The linkage controls the carb, the switch controls the linkage and those items don't fit well and effect the operation of the oiler, the carb is the engine oiler.

Usually people add helpful stuff not confusing misguided stuff if that is any help to you on how it works. I see bad information repeated and passed along.

It is totally fine for you to hurt yourself but not ok for you to confuse or mislead others and that is Excatly what is happening. Make no mistake those parts will fail, just like the manifold. As far as saw operation that boot should have never be used by anyone no even for 4 tanks. It will not seal and will cause engine damage.

Please feel free to damage your own saw just don't advertise it in this thread. Thanks in advance.

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[Bedford T]

Accident: 97086.015 -- Report ID: 1050210 -- Event Date: 07/07/2017
Inspection Open Date SIC Establishment Name
1246503.015 07/11/2017
Roots Alaska, Llc
At 5:00 p.m. on July 7, 2017, an employee was felling trees with a chainsaw and had the saw kick back while being operated. The employee put out his left hand and was struck in the wrist and face by the blade. The employee amputated his left hand and was hospitalized.

if a handle was to fail during a cut this type accident might occur

 

[Ketchup]

Jeez man, I'm here to help.

Don't characterize me as someone endangering others. We all take our risks when we build our own saws. My intention has always been to replace the boot (as well as the jug and piston), so why not give the kit parts a chance? The handle will also go, but mine is honestly not that bad. I put it on the video, look at the angles.

You seem like your upset because your pedaling a product and you don't want bad press. That was never my intention. I love these saws.

I appreciate your time and information regarding these saws. It was very helpful. As requested I will stop posting here. I will make my own thread, and I hope it will bring you more business.

 

[X 66 Stang347 X]

Mine has not run a lick. My oem carb should be here Tuesday. I am sure it's ready to go. Replace the rings, hoses, manifold,, support, vent and everything inside the handle and it's going be a perfect saw. You likely have a real coil and oiler, worm.

Dave had a AM carb I was going to try but he never got the carbs in so I waited long as I could stand it.

If you get a bad tank I got a good one I will send you. You should be fine and happy as me with it. It pains me to see it mis-handled. Things have changed

Oh and the two odd screws on the ft bk av's.
And the carb studs we're too short, I actual replaced most of the others. The back odd one concerned me the most.

Outside of control handle is excellent, side handle needs replacement

chainsaw kits and packing lists
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Hope the carb gets it going.
I have all the rubber but no linkages.
Pressurizing the tank should be first thing I guess. Thanks.

 

[Bedford T]

Hope the carb gets it going.
I have all the rubber but no linkages.
Pressurizing the tank should be first thing I guess. Thanks.

The carbs were trash. Saw is tight and tested, good spark, throw fuel in it and it makes noises. My gas cap was tight, oil cap was not. The switch of course turns it off, mine did not line up just right and the linkages would not close the choke properly. I think the switch was 10 + 30 for linkages at the counter.

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[Bedford T]

Jeez man, I'm here to help.

Don't characterize me as someone endangering others. We all take our risks when we build our own saws. My intention has always been to replace the boot (as well as the jug and piston), so why not give the kit parts a chance? The handle will also go, but mine is honestly not that bad. I put it on the video, look at the angles.

You seem like your upset because your pedaling a product and you don't want bad press. That was never my intention. I love these saws.

I appreciate your time and information regarding these saws. It was very helpful. As requested I will stop posting here. I will make my own thread, and I hope it will bring you more business.

That's funny in a PM you said you were selling these saws and wanted to work together. This is my hobby. Please go and start your own thread and sell your saws. I will hang out here and try to keep people here interested in not cutting their hand off as you suggested. i knew something was wrong with your intentions.

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[67L36Driver]

Limited endurance test:

I loaned 200t #2 to young Calin down the street. He has his one man yard work thing going and I help him out with his machines.

He used my saw for a coupe days and managed to run five tanks with no start/run/cut issues. [emoji106]

He did manage the seperate the bottom front handle AV rubber. A Farmertec part.[emoji848]. I replaced it with OEM from my favorite dealer. [emoji6]

 

[Bedford T]

Limited endurance test:

I loaned 200t #2 to young Calin down the street. He has his one man yard work thing going and I help him out with his machines.

He used my saw for a coupe days and managed to run five tanks with no start/run/cut issues. [emoji106]

He did manage the seperate the bottom front handle AV rubber. A Farmertec part.[emoji848]. I replaced it with OEM from my favorite dealer. [emoji6]

They work. I posted same photo earlier. The end will peel off due to twisted handle. Nice family photo.

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[67L36Driver]

A chronic problem with the FT small oil flippy caps not worth a ****. Coupled with casting flash around the oil tank port. The latest with an 038/MS380.

A cap from my dealer and debur with a swiss pattern file cures the problem.

 

[Bedford T]

A chronic problem with the FT small oil flippy caps not worth a ****. Coupled with casting flash around the oil tank port. The latest with an 038/MS380.

A cap from my dealer and debur with a swiss pattern file cures the problem.

You bought a complete 381 which is not made by FarmerTec and so would have no impact on us FarmerTec people.

But on subject the 200t cap is crap and leaks. The great thing about the kits is the parts match what is sold at the dealer, well sort of match.

We will see orange and white show up on the blues ones as things happen to them like if you cover gets cracked or broken.

If anyone puts a meteor on one let us know how that goes. The kit cylinder looked great, but as always we can do what we wish. My 440 & 660 changed significantly so that makes me curious.

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