Kyuss445
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello,
Been reading on here for a while, great forum.
Have issue that's been ongoing for a few years now. It's been to the dealer a few times now. Problem seems sort of intermittent- but not. I'll try to summarize:
445e approx 6 years old, mostly used for firewood, downed trees etc. Relatively moderate use.
Started with "bog". Took it in (after carb clean) they said it just had to be tuned.
This happened twice more. Seems if that saw Sat for any amount of time (weeks to a month plus) it would bog to the point it could not be run. I was told it just needed to be tuned, told it was just the " bad" ethanol gas. Picked it up 2 weeks ago, same thing. I took it down and looked it all over and eliminated a few things. Tried to start it and it pulled VERY hard and "jerky" (fuel in crankcase I later deduced). I took it in again, they said it was timing and that they had replaced flywheel. The first flywheel didn't look bad to me (the key) but I'm a novice with 2 strokes.
Got it back, ran like a top for about 8 tanks.
Started it one after noon and it ran a bit rough and smoked a bit. Wouldn't idle. I had adjusted carb a BIT a few days prior because it was colder out (T setting). I tried to adjust and T would not affect idle at all. Saw was racing as if running out of gas but faster. I shut it off. I put new, cheap carb on, and now it (still) spits fuel out of the exhaust and will not start.
After 3 pulls with choke on, it will "start" for that split second (as you would expect) but then will not start- floods.
I tried:
-New carb
-Fuel lines look A1 (and I tested for leaks)
-New primer bulb
-New gas, new oil
-Took off flywheel- key looks fine (it's a there, not broken but a bit of it is shiny on top where it bottoms out on the keyway (?)
Cleaned everything
-Asked dealer to look for any vac leaks (it. Would idle up a very little bit when turned on its side).
-Cleaned carb
-Checked lever height (level with "base"
-checked tank vent
-checked check valve in carb
-looked at flaps on "pump"
-inspected needle and seat
-inspected anything on carb that can move
-adjusted carb via "everything all the way in and 2 turns out" method (and played from there)
-check coil (4.8 4.9 kohm and, I forget the third (I couldnt find specs online)
- pulled ground from cyl and checked for spark
-new plug
-new filter
-checked for continuity from coil to switch and switch to cylinder.
-verified functionality of switch
I'm at a loss. Beginning to lose it. Behind on winter's wood because my long lengths never showed up- decided to cut my own from my land and now saw is down. I don't trust taking it in to dealer. Always works for a bit then stops. Would like to buy another, but looking at a wheeler or tractor to help me work and a splitter. I've watched all the videos and read about everything I can find.
Wondering about carb linkage now- switch feels funny. I put choke on and when I flip it down (to put it in "high idle" as if starting when warm) the arm coming from carb butterfly engages the opposite "arm" (going beyond the first "notch" and more toward engine side. Is it supposed to go that far, then when I push the switch from choke down to "run/high idle" it comes back a few degrees and rests in the next notch (closer to handle end) keeping that butterfly open but not as much?
I know that's now why she's still over fuelling, but. Don't know now if I've fixed the over fuel issue and now it's just flooding because the linkage is bugger up and it won't run?
I'm going to lose my '****' and so is the wife- been in the shed for last few nights working on this and been in a friggin rage...God, lol. Seriously though...this is driving me nuts.
Thanks! Sorry so long winded.
Been reading on here for a while, great forum.
Have issue that's been ongoing for a few years now. It's been to the dealer a few times now. Problem seems sort of intermittent- but not. I'll try to summarize:
445e approx 6 years old, mostly used for firewood, downed trees etc. Relatively moderate use.
Started with "bog". Took it in (after carb clean) they said it just had to be tuned.
This happened twice more. Seems if that saw Sat for any amount of time (weeks to a month plus) it would bog to the point it could not be run. I was told it just needed to be tuned, told it was just the " bad" ethanol gas. Picked it up 2 weeks ago, same thing. I took it down and looked it all over and eliminated a few things. Tried to start it and it pulled VERY hard and "jerky" (fuel in crankcase I later deduced). I took it in again, they said it was timing and that they had replaced flywheel. The first flywheel didn't look bad to me (the key) but I'm a novice with 2 strokes.
Got it back, ran like a top for about 8 tanks.
Started it one after noon and it ran a bit rough and smoked a bit. Wouldn't idle. I had adjusted carb a BIT a few days prior because it was colder out (T setting). I tried to adjust and T would not affect idle at all. Saw was racing as if running out of gas but faster. I shut it off. I put new, cheap carb on, and now it (still) spits fuel out of the exhaust and will not start.
After 3 pulls with choke on, it will "start" for that split second (as you would expect) but then will not start- floods.
I tried:
-New carb
-Fuel lines look A1 (and I tested for leaks)
-New primer bulb
-New gas, new oil
-Took off flywheel- key looks fine (it's a there, not broken but a bit of it is shiny on top where it bottoms out on the keyway (?)
Cleaned everything
-Asked dealer to look for any vac leaks (it. Would idle up a very little bit when turned on its side).
-Cleaned carb
-Checked lever height (level with "base"
-checked tank vent
-checked check valve in carb
-looked at flaps on "pump"
-inspected needle and seat
-inspected anything on carb that can move
-adjusted carb via "everything all the way in and 2 turns out" method (and played from there)
-check coil (4.8 4.9 kohm and, I forget the third (I couldnt find specs online)
- pulled ground from cyl and checked for spark
-new plug
-new filter
-checked for continuity from coil to switch and switch to cylinder.
-verified functionality of switch
I'm at a loss. Beginning to lose it. Behind on winter's wood because my long lengths never showed up- decided to cut my own from my land and now saw is down. I don't trust taking it in to dealer. Always works for a bit then stops. Would like to buy another, but looking at a wheeler or tractor to help me work and a splitter. I've watched all the videos and read about everything I can find.
Wondering about carb linkage now- switch feels funny. I put choke on and when I flip it down (to put it in "high idle" as if starting when warm) the arm coming from carb butterfly engages the opposite "arm" (going beyond the first "notch" and more toward engine side. Is it supposed to go that far, then when I push the switch from choke down to "run/high idle" it comes back a few degrees and rests in the next notch (closer to handle end) keeping that butterfly open but not as much?
I know that's now why she's still over fuelling, but. Don't know now if I've fixed the over fuel issue and now it's just flooding because the linkage is bugger up and it won't run?
I'm going to lose my '****' and so is the wife- been in the shed for last few nights working on this and been in a friggin rage...God, lol. Seriously though...this is driving me nuts.
Thanks! Sorry so long winded.
.
