Husky 55 problem

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Have you checked to see if your decompression valve is not stuck? If it's stuck open your compression would be low.

It sure works right -- use it all the time to start.

Two different gauges just gave me about 80 PSI. A little oil, and it went to 115. I think I know what's wrong.

The likely culprit is the intake bulkhead and impulse grommet in the cylinder.

Not sure what these are but I'll look for them in the manual.

Thanks again. Would be happy to pay back the beers I just saved.

Where do you go for parts like this? Still need to RTFM, but I reckon I'm needing a ring and bottom cylinder gasket. I can mic the piston/cylinder. I'll probably order other spares and replace stuff like the decomp valve, coil, clutch, and chain sprocket. And be happy.
 
I apparently have a '98 EPA. Parts on the way.
cylinder.JPG piston.JPG

I might quit bragging now ... but you shouldn't count on it.
 
I got it back together. Ring, plus new rubber and plastic bits including bulkhead, impulse grommet (carburetor boot!), and fuel line. New saw rim (sprocket!), and decomp valve. The air tube was clogged, explaining why it was acting up when well warmed-up. The chain brake isn't together exactly right, but it still works. Otherwise, I'm pretty sure all is well

Funny thing, it pulls harder on the starter. It ran like crap for about 5 minutes, but after another 10 minutes of easy cutting it ran great. The jets still don't make a lot of difference -- I'm way at the lean end, but I'm also at about 7500 ft elevation. The decomp valve doesn't (yet) close automatically.

Haven't check the compression, but expect it to be low until that ring seats in. I'll check after a couple hours of cutting.

Any suggestions for breaking it in?

And thanks for all the help ... especially that manual!
 
I got it back together. Ring, plus new rubber and plastic bits including bulkhead, impulse grommet (carburetor boot!), and fuel line. New saw rim (sprocket!), and decomp valve. The air tube was clogged, explaining why it was acting up when well warmed-up. The chain brake isn't together exactly right, but it still works. Otherwise, I'm pretty sure all is well

Funny thing, it pulls harder on the starter. It ran like crap for about 5 minutes, but after another 10 minutes of easy cutting it ran great. The jets still don't make a lot of difference -- I'm way at the lean end, but I'm also at about 7500 ft elevation. The decomp valve doesn't (yet) close automatically.

Haven't check the compression, but expect it to be low until that ring seats in. I'll check after a couple hours of cutting.

Any suggestions for breaking it in?

And thanks for all the help ... especially that manual!
If you haven't already done it, do a vacuum/pressure test and tune it a little rich until it's broke in.
 
I got it back together. Ring, plus new rubber and plastic bits including bulkhead, impulse grommet (carburetor boot!), and fuel line. New saw rim (sprocket!), and decomp valve. The air tube was clogged, explaining why it was acting up when well warmed-up. The chain brake isn't together exactly right, but it still works. Otherwise, I'm pretty sure all is well

Funny thing, it pulls harder on the starter. It ran like crap for about 5 minutes, but after another 10 minutes of easy cutting it ran great. The jets still don't make a lot of difference -- I'm way at the lean end, but I'm also at about 7500 ft elevation. The decomp valve doesn't (yet) close automatically.

Haven't check the compression, but expect it to be low until that ring seats in. I'll check after a couple hours of cutting.

Any suggestions for breaking it in?

And thanks for all the help ... especially that manual!
You have some red flags popping up, decomp not popping up, jets not making a difference, set on the lean side at altitude, hate to see you burn up your saw. At the very least, adjust your high side towards the rich side.
 
Thanks. I don't think there's really anything wrong, just need to give the ring a chance to seat. Even though it wasn't scored or anything, the cylinder mic'ed a couple thousanths oval.
I've always run it on the lean end of best performance. And it should be lean up here, where there's less air in the air. But I hear you -- I'll go to the rich side, at least for a the first few days. The "best performance" curve is pretty flat right now, at least on the high jet. The low jet bogs off idle if I go much off the lean stop, but it raps out well enough with the high jet anywhere from about 1/2 to 1/4 lean. It's always been kinda like that up here.
The decomp valve is much stiffer than my old one -- takes a tug to get it to close. I might put the old one back on for now.
The starter did pull harder than I'm used to; and the motor was pulling just fine with good chain speed by the end of my short test. I'm ready to go cutting.
Do you really expect a new ring to give high compression right off the bat?
 
Thanks. I don't think there's really anything wrong, just need to give the ring a chance to seat. Even though it wasn't scored or anything, the cylinder mic'ed a couple thousanths oval.
I've always run it on the lean end of best performance. And it should be lean up here, where there's less air in the air. But I hear you -- I'll go to the rich side, at least for a the first few days. The "best performance" curve is pretty flat right now, at least on the high jet. The low jet bogs off idle if I go much off the lean stop, but it raps out well enough with the high jet anywhere from about 1/2 to 1/4 lean. It's always been kinda like that up here.
The decomp valve is much stiffer than my old one -- takes a tug to get it to close. I might put the old one back on for now.
Do you really expect a new ring to give high compression right off the bat?
Comp should be in the 140 psi or better range and that should give decent performance, I alway err on the rich side till the rings seat, around 4 or 5 tanks should do. What was your squish and did you delete the base gasket, or mod the muffler? Opening up the muffler should at least let it breathe!
 
Yeah, I think about that much work should start to settle the new parts. I'll generally take it easy. Not a fan of "break it in like you'll run it" because that's the same as not breaking it in at all. I might check the compression tomorrow, but I don't see any decision I'd make from it.

I kept the base gasket out of fear of a ring ridge at the top of the stroke. Don't know about modding the exhaust, and don't know what you mean by "squish". I didn't measure the ring gap in the cylinder because it didn't matter: the new ring was definitely going in. (Had a hassle getting the right ring or it would've been running days ago. My piston most definitely is 45mm, even though the specs variously say 44 or 46mm. Should've ordered parts after taking it apart.)

To be honest, I didn't much notice the lost performance, even with that low compression. Figured it was just me getting old. I think I'm gonna like how it runs just fine, based on how it felt at the end of today's little run cutting up a tree in the yard.
 
After cutting for a half day, it's running swell. (I'm only good for a half day anymore, and this job is so weedy that I can barely find room to swing a saw anyway. It's Darth Vadar style cutting.)

I just took down the rakers on this old chain -- didn't notice it needed that last year. I mean, it's pulling noticeably better.

The decomp valve works fine. I'm running it as rich as I can (both) without any noticeable performance issue. It's still a little fussy about restarting after a longish break, but runs fine when I do.

Haven't re-checked the compression. Instead, I'm just going to use it.

Thanks again. Nice to have this great old saw without having to buy a new one. (And it's making me want a 266XP all the more.)
 
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