Huztl / Farmertec ms 440

[tbohn]

How do you get the seals out without damaging them?

Also, how much time do you take from "crank out of the freezer" to "completing the assembling of the second case half"?

I think you should put new seal in place once you take them out. That's why I leave them in place.
I leave the right half in the oven when I install the crank in the left half. Then take the right half out after installing the gasket and applying a light coating of motoseal 1 to the gasket. It takes a few minutes to complete the whole process.

 

[Bedford T]

Can these 440 threads be combined?

 

[tbohn]

Can these 440 threads be combined?

That would make sense. Anyone know how to merge them?

 

[EB Saw]

I would have but have no clue how. Anyone?

 

[Bedford T]

You are the OP so the guy with the name on the thread likely has to ask. If you write it out. Please combine this thread with blah blah. I will send them a message or you can and we can find out if they will/can do it.

I don't want to choose where to post or post my own. That will be no fun long term. It does not matter who's names on the thread. Zero.

 

[Bedford T]

I sent a message and asked if you guys wanted could it be combined

 

[tbohn]

Does someone have the piston connector rod length for a 440?

 

[Bedford T]

I don't have one or those numbers.

I do have something to add. I think your thread may end up more as a build thread that turns out to be more helpful to the guy not interested in performance and all the porting so it might not be so bad. If you can make a title change that might help, if you think there is any change you would make that would indicate that. I don't think i will have my kit until they come back. And several others will have them too.

 

[EB Saw]

Bedford i think you are right, i never intended to have my thread go the way its going it just evolved into that. I will definitely be posting some quality inspections on the parts these upcoming days.

 

[Bedford T]

Bedford i think you are right, i never intended to have my thread go the way its going it just evolved into that. I will definitely be posting some quality inspections on the parts these upcoming days.

You have done nothing wrong. This is the whole idea. You take this kit and create. I was an observer and noticed your thread becoming technical in nature. Not one thing wrong with that.

You showed us the spring, I don't see how you could do more. You are doing great. That other forum is more performance. I posted over the the other day and bam they showed me my error.

We all want to know more. With the new kits building them and reporting on them also helps the next builder.

Now we have an interesting thread on porting. You were quick too. All good. But report what you can.

 

[weimedog]

I think you should put new seal in place once you take them out. That's why I leave them in place.
I leave the right half in the oven when I install the crank in the left half. Then take the right half out after installing the gasket and applying a light coating of motoseal 1 to the gasket. It takes a few minutes to complete the whole process.

Seals are cheap...I've been successful with both approaches on the ms660's. ( leaving them in as well as replacing them ) i've moved on to taking out the am seals and putting in oem seals as the modus operandi now on saws that count. Mine? Most were put together with cases & bearing at around 200 degrees ferienhieght and chilled cranks. With the addition of three bond 1184. Also I was able to get the crank to poke through the preinstalled seals..oiled. And with the help of a press along with sockets was able to squeeze those cases together. Very little pressure was required. But...still think for most popping out the seals and putting cases together, then installing Oem seals is the best way. Also...with a good case gasket and good set of cases you should not need the extra step I take with 1184.

 

[dswensen]

Thanks to the guys here - I got my cases together. I used the oven at 230 for 10 minutes on the cases and froze the crank overnight (sealed in a ziplock bag AFTER oiling the big end bearing to (hopefully) prevent moisture)

The flywheel side case accepted the crank with a push of the hand, but I had to use the case bolts to draw the clutch side in and together. I Moto-sealed both sides of the gasket prior to starting to minimize the time that the cases and crank were temperature equalizing.

Seals are cheap...I've been successful with both approaches on the ms660's. ( leaving them in as well as replacing them ) i've moved on to taking out the am seals and putting in oem seals as the modus operandi now on saws that count. Mine? Most were put together with cases & bearing at around 200 degrees ferienhieght and chilled cranks. With the addition of three bond 1184. Also I was able to get the crank to poke through the preinstalled seals..oiled. And with the help of a press along with sockets was able to squeeze those cases together. Very little pressure was required. But...still think for most popping out the seals and putting cases together, then installing Oem seals is the best way. Also...with a good case gasket and good set of cases you should not need the extra step I take with 1184.

 

[EB Saw]

Nice job, that is basically what i did, except i never used any sort of sealant on the case gasket, i just used the gasket that came in the kit, i am not proud of doing that but for the spirit of the build, i wanted to keep it all stock and see what happens. Worst case i split them and get an OEM gasket and use some moto seal.

 

[Bedford T]

No one has had trouble with cases leaking...yet

 

[Bedford T]

Darin a moderator just sent links to both guys to merge the threads. I guess instructions were included.

 

[Bedford T]

Did you guys notice that a majority of the binding head screws included in the kit lacked the serrates under the head. That's particularly troubling on the 5x20 that holds much of the saw together including the case.

I got an email about the brake tension spring and the linkage. He said that's what everyone was using. I think he sits in a office and people don't tell him what is going on.

I wrote him back and took my unassembled saw laid the spring in every position and sent detailed photos then included photos of the spring installed in the correct direction and one of it in an incorrect position and put the cover on it so he could see that no way in he double hockey sticks are those springs and levers acceptable or even useful.

And now I find these binding heads half done.

But on a positive note the jug was smooth as a babies behind, perfect finish. Better than the 119$ level jug I got for my 660 after a problem last month.

 

[Bedford T]

The chain brake fasico is a mistake and they regret it. it was one big FU and it will be fixed.

so while i had their attention i opened up the door on the change to binding head screws. more on that when they get back in office. i was surprised to get an answer.

I was reminded that on those screws you need to add extra loctite to be sure you dont need to carry extra screws as they will shake loose.

 

[dswensen]

Mine is together and, after waiting for a throttle rod and a replacement carb that was delivered yesterday, I am happy to report that she fired up on the fourth pull last night. Tuned her a bit, and the throttle response is excellent. Oiler works pretty well for the 25 inch bar I put on her.

I'm pretty happy.

I have a new chain adjuster set-up on my bench to install this weekend, and I am still waiting on the delivery of an OEM replacement for the chain brake tension spring.

I am toying with the idea of a 660 kit ........

One question. On the 660 thread, they are talking about the heat reflecting foil that OEM says should go under the muffler. We know our kits didn't have the foil. Are any of you builders concerned? Did you install heat protection of some kind under the muffler?

 

[Bedford T]

Davhul just posted a brilliant alternative in the 660 thread. We both were early adopters. I feel protection is in order and it's not included on the 440 or 660. I bought foil for mine. I think depending on the material cost I will use Dave's idea seems more durable. I don't work with headers so I would need to be able to buy 10$ worth to use it. Most guys work on cars I dont

I am not sure if it comes on saws under that size would need to check. On smaller saws if you modded the muffler it would seem important as the heat would be greater since it's not diffused. I am not an engineer so on that portion I might be off.

 

[Bedford T]

for those of you lurking and wondering what the kits are like