Hydraulic Tank - return filter

[eglaude]

Hello y'all, I'm in the process of rebuilding an old log splitter, a brute if I must say so myself, and need to replace the oil tank because the axel fluid capacity us WAY too small. I am looking at a 12 gallon aluminum one that will sit on the axel and feed the inlet to the 11GPM pump. My thoughts are that the aluminum will be much lighter to work with, and can dissipate the heat better. It is 16" x 16" x 12".
I am looking for any suggestions on the location of the return port for the spin-on filter. I have it located about mid high on the 12" side, located a far as I can away from the 1-1/2 suction port on the lower opposite side.
I am not sure if I should mount the filter directly on the tank or on the valve block itself. I have seen it both ways, just most commercial ones are on the tank.
Since I haven't welded the ports yet, should the return be near the top, or can it be located in the fluid itself? I've uploaded my shop sketch, and I really would appreciate your comments. I know y'all make some nice stuff out there, just needed to make sure I was on the right track.
Thanks again for your help,
Eric

 

[triptester]

I prefer to have the filter mounted to the tank with the filter above the fluid level in the tank. This allows the filter to be changed without draining the tank. The fluid returning to the tank should be near the bottom by means of a drop tube .

 

[kevin j]

With alum tank support the filter well or remote mount so you dont get vibration cracking of the alum wall.

Downtube is essential. Returning oil above the surface causes serious aeration and eventually damages pump and other issues.

 

[TimberWolf530]

I always wondered why they mount those out close to the wheels. It seems like it would be much safer to mount it in the middle so that the beam protects it from falling objects.

 

[eglaude]

With alum tank support the filter well or remote mount so you dont get vibration cracking of the alum wall.

Downtube is essential. Returning oil above the surface causes serious aeration and eventually damages pump and other issues.

Thanks for the info. Yes I was planning on having the filter directly off the 3/4" outlet port on the control valve. I have seen others there, and it will be solid too. I will only have fittings on the tank.

I like the idea of the dip-tube, and will try to get my fab shop to build this in. I'm thinking 3/4" diameter and a couple of inches off the bottom should do it... maybe? The alternative is to use the side port on the bottom opposite the suction port.

While I got you, is it going to hurt the suction if I come off the tank's suction port with a 3/4" 90 degree hose barb fitting or would it be best to use a street-L 90 and transition to the hose barb fitting?

Thanks for your input y'all. Old Bertha is going to be tearing up the wood shortly!

 

[Oldman47]

A 90 is a major restriction to flow. If you can do the same thing with a pair of 45s you will be better off.

 

[eglaude]

A 90 is a major restriction to flow. If you can do the same thing with a pair of 45s you will be better off.

Thanks Oldman, I hear you, just trying to figure out a way to get across the beam to the pump suction. What do you think about coming off the tank suction port with a 1-1/2" street-L and going with a straight 3/4" reducer to the hose? I will try to keep the sweeps as loose as possible in the hose.