Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!
- Thread starter Fyrebug
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And one that the factory rep could answer but for some reason has not responded. Perhaps he is on vacation or dealing with something else but he's already had the opportunity to be definitive pertinent to his product line. His previous answer of 1. "Yes , its more efficient with it but it is not advantageous if you want to heat the boiler room" did not speak to his particular product having insulation or not. From that point I could only guess that it may come both ways with an added cost for the insulated variety or that insulated ones will only be offered to a certain market. Dunno for sure so far.
Sorry guys, up to my neck in stuff.
No the cabinet is not insulated. Because the firebox is insulated with brick and a thin ceramic blanket inside it was not deemed necessary.
Our Alterna Pellet furnace is different. Because of air flow and uninsulated firebox the panels are insulated.
Am at a trade show this week and will take more pics for you.
No the cabinet is not insulated. Because the firebox is insulated with brick and a thin ceramic blanket inside it was not deemed necessary.
Our Alterna Pellet furnace is different. Because of air flow and uninsulated firebox the panels are insulated.
Am at a trade show this week and will take more pics for you.
Sorry for the delay but been away for a little while. Notice all the electrical are on plugs. No wiring!
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Thanks very much for these pictures. I would like to query an area of this furnace. On my stove, the seam welds making up the air tube manifolds have cracked….or more correctly, the metal surrounding the weld has cracked. This is an area unprotected by fire brick. You can understand my concern as I see the same secondary air structure in the Tundra as what is in the Quad. Quadrafire claims a temp of 700* is considered over firing. This stove has to be operated between 800-900* (as measured with a temp gage affixed to the top of stove) to make enough heat from the cellar. I could be mistaken but from the picture of the inside of the furnace, it appears the manifolds are seam welded to the sides of the firebox. If indeed this is the case, I am wondering if it would be better if the air induction manifolds were not seam welded to the side of the stove but sort of "floating" with just end welds. This would give the plate steel on the side of the firebox more leeway in it expansion/contraction sequences which may help with durability. What temp is considered over firing with the Tundra? Thanks.
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Stove = convection+ radiation heat, wood furnace = forced air, two completely different operational principals, no need to run a furnace at 900+ degrees external temp. and that would be a major over fire.
Routinely hitting 900 deg. on a stove as possibly measured by a stick on temp gauge( notoriously in accurate) I would agree with the mfg. that it is being over fired. Heck i get the hebejebes when my NC 30 punches the 700+ mark as measured in various places on the stove with an infrared unit ( note that is with the blower on and there is a differential of at least a couple hundred degrees between it being on or off). That is just me I suppose due to having a run away a number of years ago on a different unit.
Routinely hitting 900 deg. on a stove as possibly measured by a stick on temp gauge( notoriously in accurate) I would agree with the mfg. that it is being over fired. Heck i get the hebejebes when my NC 30 punches the 700+ mark as measured in various places on the stove with an infrared unit ( note that is with the blower on and there is a differential of at least a couple hundred degrees between it being on or off). That is just me I suppose due to having a run away a number of years ago on a different unit.
I'm not looking for a lecture at this point about what happened to my stove. You do offer an enlightenment however about the blower being on lowering temps. I specifically asked the salesman if it would be ok to put this Quadrafire in the cellar and he confirmed it was. I ran this stove as I did my last one which lasted 27 years and was never given an education from either the manufacturer or sales on what exactly constitutes "overfiring" until after the fact. All the stove manual said is that no part of the stove should glow red and routinely the air bars glowed red as it could not be helped. What I am asking is what is considered the over firing point for the Tundra as I do not want to be caught unawares once more. With the exception of the increased firebrick in the Tundra, the two interior constructions look almost identical with the welded air manifolds on the Tundra still exposed as on the Quad. I am simply trying to get my ducks in order so this does not happen again.
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Preston
Addicted to ArboristSite
And a very wise thing to do.
We do not state safe operating temps in the baffle area since most consumers would be hard pressed on how to measure these. We do state the firebox should not be filled past the bricks.
Proper operation for any EPA wood stove and in this instance furnace requires to build a small hot fire, then build up the fire gradually until draft is established. Once done, fill the firebox as stated and let it burn down to coals before refilling.
The problem users encounters with wood furnace is if the furnace is undersized. The user will then feel they have to reload as often as possible until the coal bed is quite high. The furnace was not designed for that type of operation.
Keep in mind this firebox has been on the market for over 8 years in another brand and the problem you mention is not one we've experienced.
If you are concerned about its operation, you may want to ask Laynes69 who has a similar model for a few years.
stihly dan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Basement installs sometimes have this problem on epa units. A bdr would solve that.
laynes69
Addicted to ArboristSite
I fill our firebox when it's cold out for an overnight burn. The firebox temperatures cannot be measured, and it's impossible to tell the firebox temps based on flue temps. With the heat exchanger, it's extremely effective on extracting heat that otherwise would be lost. With the firebox being protected with an insulation blanket and firebrick, it's highly doubtful you are going to damage it. Having a baro almost eliminates the chance for overheating by reducing draft.
More Lingo:
You fellas are really confusing me.
Now, what is a BARO? Thanks.:msp_confused:
You fellas are really confusing me.
Now, what is a BARO? Thanks.:msp_confused:
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Barometric Draft Regulator. It mounts on your flue pipe, has a weighted door that regulates the draft that the wood stove/furnace see's to your preset spec.
They work great although a little controversial, I think most people that knock 'em, don't really understand 'em. Some people say that they cool the chimney too much, cause creosote. That hasn't been my experience at all. Anyways, not trying to veer fryebugs thread off in the ditch with BDR pizzin match. My Yukon (and a lot of other wood furnaces) are required to have a BDR. It is almost impossible to overfire a wood burner with a BDR on the stack and, because they actually regulate the velocity of the smoke/gasses/heat, it gives time for heat exchange to take place in your stove or furnace's secondary heat exchanger, instead of just zipping right up the chimney, and everybody likes increased efficiency, right?
Edit, BARO, different term for the same thing.
They work great although a little controversial, I think most people that knock 'em, don't really understand 'em. Some people say that they cool the chimney too much, cause creosote. That hasn't been my experience at all. Anyways, not trying to veer fryebugs thread off in the ditch with BDR pizzin match. My Yukon (and a lot of other wood furnaces) are required to have a BDR. It is almost impossible to overfire a wood burner with a BDR on the stack and, because they actually regulate the velocity of the smoke/gasses/heat, it gives time for heat exchange to take place in your stove or furnace's secondary heat exchanger, instead of just zipping right up the chimney, and everybody likes increased efficiency, right?
Edit, BARO, different term for the same thing.
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I am wondering what effects would an outside air intake have on a bdr? Also, on a wood furnace such as the Tundra, would an oai be beneficial to heat efficiencies?
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