log splitter help!!

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Here is info for a typical 2-stage pump. The cap next to the inlet covers the adjustment screw for bypass of the high flow section of the pump. The plug next to the outlet contains the ball check between the two pump sections. A 2-stage pump is basically two pumps in one body. A small pump that sends fluid to the system all the time and a large pump that sends fluid to the system until the bypass setting is reached . When the bypass opens fluid from the large pump returns to the supply, then the check valve closes and only the small pump continues to build pressure.

http://images.palcdn.com/hlr-system/Documents/12/122/1221/1221118_manual.pdf
 
I guess I misread the part about the new control valve, I thought you just replaced the detent. You got a new pump and new control valve and you still have the same problem you did before you started adding parts. Did you check the cylinder for bypassing? It is possible the pump needs adjusting and it is possible the control valve needs adjusting, but before I started monkeying with something I didnt know anything about, I would just do the check for fluid bypass in the cylinder. Its easy to do, only takes a few minutes, and it doesnt cost anything. New pump, new control valve, engine runs, the cylinder is the only thing left.
 
bigdaddy3 said:
Don't think it is a worn or dirty controll valve since it is all brand new, and I realize this pump has a little higher flow than the original one , but the characteristics of the problem are bacically the same as it was before I replaced the parts, how do i know for sure the pump is going into the lower stage, the pump on the top side where the pressure line comes out there is a plug with a ball and spring under it and then threre is also on the top there is a cap that has a slot head adjustment under it, and the on the bottom side of the pump where the suction line is there is a large cap with a big slot head adjustment under it, what is the fuction of all of theses.
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Underneath those two caps are your pressure relief adjustments, one controls the switching set point from first to second stage, the other controls overall system maximum pressure. Go ahead and adjust them one at a time, one full turn out and see what effect it has. This will allow you to determine which valve is controlling what function. Backing the screw out will lower the psi, so it will not damage anything. If the motor is stalling as soon as it shifts into second stage, lower the switching set point. If the motor stalls after switching to the hi psi side of the pump, and running against the load for a while, lower the overall system psi. As to which one is which on your pump I have no idea, I'd have to play around with to figure out which relief controls what.
 
Mike Van said:
Where do you live BD3 ? Maybe someone near could lend you a ram to try out, no sense buying one if it's not needed.
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I live down here in Louisianna about 15 miles from where Duck Dynasty is filmed West Monroe , I actually live in Farmerville, have any of you heard of Duck Dnyasty, my son works for them some. I have been very impressed with the help you guys have given me, I have a friend coming over tomorrow and try and help me diagnose it, you guys keep the suggestions coming, I have listened to every one of them along with reading some other post, I will be very happy to figure it out so I can pass the info on. I will keep you posted on my progress.
 
I might have missed it being mentioned but have you done a compression check on the motor? I have seen engines with 70psi start and run but have very little power. this would explain your main problem of no splitting power then with new higher flow pump the engine stalling out
 
fordf150 said:
I might have missed it being mentioned but have you done a compression check on the motor? I have seen engines with 70psi start and run but have very little power. this would explain your main problem of no splitting power then with new higher flow pump the engine stalling out
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Believe it or not that was on my list to check in the morning, it is a Honda GX240 which I believe is an 8hp, the Honda cranks and seems to run pretty good but it is like you said without any load on the engine some times its hard to tell, I will run a compression test to see, this engine does have a lot of hours on it and when I got it the oil looked terrible, it was black black and thin as water so who knows.
 
I would still check your cylinder out because that ram shouldn't leak off at all. They are cheap and easy to repair. All new seals/packing can be had for $30 or less. it will take time and effort to track them down though
 
fordf150 said:
I would still check your cylinder out because that ram shouldn't leak off at all. They are cheap and easy to repair. All new seals/packing can be had for $30 or less. it will take time and effort to track them down though
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I am with you on that, I feel certian it has some leakage because of the cylinder falling, wether its the main problem I am not sure but it will eventually need to be replaced or repaired.
 
Fastleo151 is in the same boat. Only thing left on his splitter that is original is the beam. Ended up restoring it instead of repairing it. But like i said that predator engine is doing good. I think we are up to 20 hrs or so of hard runtime on It.
 
Have a friend that called and told me he had a brand new cylinder that he bought for his splitter, got stolen before he installed it , same size that is on mine 4 1/2"X24"
going to drop it off wednsday, told me I could have it so I think I will go ahead and install it before I go any futher since it wont cost anything, I will probally give him something any way, I think he paid almost $300, I will post an update when I get it put on Thursday. I need couple of days break from this project anyway, Thanks again for all of your help.
 
I realize this is an old thread and OP never came back to let us know if the cylinder fixed his splitter. I have a 22 ton Brave splitter that has had the same symptoms on and off for several years. Works fine sometime and then will all of a sudden stop kicking to high pressure and won't split. Last week, I replaced the fluid and filter and put on a new pump. It worked like it should for about 15 minutes splitting some stringy elm and then reverted back to the wedge stalling when it hit the wood and the engine slightly laboring. Shortly after replacing the fluid, filter and pump, the retract detent started sticking and the return stroke killed the engine a couple of times. I can cancel the return stroke as normal by hitting the lever. I'm now down to it either being the control valve or the cylinder, and since the return detent is not working properly, I'm suspecting the control valve. Sure wish the OP had come back to let us know if the cylinder fixed his problem.
I have been reading several threads this morning and I haven't found any of them with a solution. Any suggestions welcome, and when I get this fixed, I will post the solution.
 
Great news! It stinks following a thread to find a fix and they never told us if it fixed it or not. I've had a problem with my splitter and can't get my self to say the valve is the problem. But with the weather has been 7 or 8 days of crappy weather haven't had a chance to really work my splitter. But after 2-3 hours of splitting my valve starts leaking at the service port and the handle/valve gets knotchy. New hoses,pump,engine and still funky. The parts where just upgrades. Bigger pump, engine and getting rid of elbow in the hoses. I should of just replaced the valve when it was torn apart.
 
I could have gotten by with a fluid and filter change and new valve, but with nobody posting a solution, I went with a bigger pump also, shot in the dark. I pulled the cap off the valve, the one that cancels the lever on the retract stroke and found some rusty looking gunk. The rest of the valve was clean. I now have a spare pump if somebody needs one.
 

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