Log splitter not starting after running out of gas while splitting

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swisspete

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Jan 28, 2019
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Location
Boulder, CO
I bought a house that came with a TDM 550 log splitter. Used it a few times with no issues. 2 days ago I got it started, and tried to split a large log but the engine stalled on me. Then I realized that the gas tank was empty. Got gas and today was going to split logs. But the engine won't start. It was harder to pull the starter (temperature about 20F). Tried for 2 minutes, stopped and did that a few times within 30 minutes. At some point, a bit of smoke would come out of the exhaust and it got a little easier. But still nothing.

I tried to remove the top cover and when I did that, the fuel line hooked off, had not seen it was there. So it was leaking everywhere, but I was not able to put it back on. The clamp is broken and the screwing thread just goes "in circles". So I will order a fuel line kit and fix that. However, since I need to cut wood and to avoid having changed that and still not being able to start the engine, what else could be the issue ?

The air filter seemed in decent shape. Spark seems clean.

Thanks !
 
Location of your house? If really cold,and direct drive pump,bring it inside a heated area to warm it up?
It's in the mountains, if that is what you are asking. Difficult to bring it in, but I can place it in the sun..and see if it works better. So it could be just a temperature thing then ? I wondered if the line somehow froze because of lack of gas, and no gas was not flowing..
 
You could try starting fluid.
It is much more likely to fire than on gas alone when it’s very cold out
It also could be your choke mechanism isn't closing fully.
Can you post a pic of the carb?
The choke? The air filter housing etc. ?
 
lots of ways to heat them up but 30 weight oil doesn't like cold , heavier weight hydraulic oil also not good in cold.

10w30 will get you down to about 0 degrees if your hydraulic oil is ATF

5w30 will get you down -20 but don't use in warm weather.

your manual doesn't mention these temps http://la.mtdproducts.com/en/files/...plitters/MTD 24BG55M1706 operators manual.pdf but other splitter manuals do there is no magic in small gas engines so a briggs or a kohler basically they have similar operating temps to oil and hydraulic pumps are fairly universal

here are the DHT manuals thttps://www.tscstores.com/Assets/RichContent/doc/Kohler-SH265-201811131511.pdf https://www.tscstores.com/Assets/RichContent/doc/439445 - Manual-201811131152.pdf


if you need very cold splitting ATF should be used as the hydraulic oil

engine oil
5w30 from -20 to 32
10w30 from 0 to 100 degrees
30w from 50 to 100


hydraulic oil
ATF from -20 to 32
AW-32 you can run from 10 to 60 by the chart
AW-46 from 32 to 80
AW-68 from 50 to 100

I am running 10w30 and AW-32 and some times it does make for difficult starting at or below 10 degrees.

I sort of wish I had a torpedo heater I could point at the splitter some days and warm it up some but mostly I try and do my splitting between about 20 and 60 degrees much warmer and it is too hot to work
 
I use 0w20 in winter. Otherwise nearly impossible to start below freezing. Just won't spin over fast enough. Then after several all out attempts it floods.

Using 0w20 I have had 1 start pulls until the other day when it was -17 when I got up. Took 3 pulls to get it limbered up.

G'luck!
 
If the splitter has a detent valve, make sure you didn’t leave engaged. If you did, when starting you would be turning while under pressure. Just work the valve back and forth to knock the pressure off. Then make sure the valve is back in center position.
 
Depending on how much of a pain it is... you could decouple or unbolt the coupler or pump. Start the engine, let it fully warm up. Shut it down, reconnect the coupler or pump, then it should be possible to start with the pump connected and go splitting!
 
Could have had water in the gas which iced up. Then when it hit some load it quit from that. And won't start again.

I'd get the fuel line fixed, get fresh gas & add some de-icer, put a fresh plug in, and try to get it warmed up somehow if it still won't start.
 
Depending on how much of a pain it is... you could decouple or unbolt the coupler or pump. Start the engine, let it fully warm up. Shut it down, reconnect the coupler or pump, then it should be possible to start with the pump connected and go splitting!

That's a good idea too.
 
If the splitter has a detent valve, make sure you didn’t leave engaged. If you did, when starting you would be turning while under pressure. Just work the valve back and forth to knock the pressure off. Then make sure the valve is back in center position.
This was my first thought too.

Also they are very hard to start in cold weather. I took half hour to get mine started in -25°c. It would try to fire but wouldnt stay running. I try to split when its warmer out.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 
Might be a good time to invest in a magnetic block heater and stick to oil tank.
For couple hours befor starting. If hydraulic oil is warmni think you could get the motor running easyer


Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 
Get some light on it to warm it up some.

getimage.php
 
it has been cold here and friends have been fighting with equipment breaking or not starting.

I am thinking a torpedo heater and a big canvas tarp might be a good investment.

drape the tarp over the equipment and put the torpedo heater under it from an end blow heat at the engine compartment.

back when I was a kid my dad flew for a few years , they had a big torpedo heater on a cart with what amounted to large drier hoses these hoses had inserts to go in the air intakes at each side of the prop pop those in fire up the heater give it 20 minutes and you could get the air cooled engine to start when it was cold
 
Try a torpedo heater for 5 minutes or so.

A few years ago I tried to start my Kubota tractor at -18 and I got a bit fat refusal. I got my propane torpedo heater and faced it at the side of the engine about 8 feet away. I let this run for about 15 minutes then the tractor fired right up...
 
In the old days they used to build fires under the engine blocks to get them warm enough to start. That could turn into a catch 22 if the splitter is the piece of equipment you need to start.
 
Neighbor uses a propane torch in a 6" stove pipe. Poor mans salamander. Does the job but would be over kill for a wood splitter. Works great if ya get water froze in the bottom of a rear end or engine ECT...
 

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