MS180 - Woods Porting

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
53,727
Reaction score
33,305
Location
Franklin, OH
It's time to do the deed. I'm happy with the way the stock engine is running on the adjustable WT215 carb. It only took about 25 minutes or less to get the saw apart. But Ultra, ya jinxed me!!:buttkick: I just ruined my first piston. I screwed my plastic piston stop into the jug and put the wrench on the flywheel nut. It went right through the crown of the piston. The crazy thing was only .075" thick! This piston was in great shape too. Oh well, a tiny piston like that can't be too pricey. I can still proceed with the port work on the jug. Now Ultra, where's that piston already? I need it same day delivery:) You know I like to finish my jobs before I start them!:clap:

Check out all the black carbon. The combustion chamber looks similiar. So much for thinking these little things are way too lean!
370412422_Qcreq-M.jpg
370412325_bEyQy-M.jpg


370412304_bEPDM-M.jpg
370412530_MaH5F-M.jpg
 
I will not be raising the exhaust at all. I want the torque. I will lower the intake a couple degrees. The hardest part will be getting down into this tiny cylinder to chamfer the ports.

Intake Port. Plenty of room to go wider. The piston covers all the way into the transfers.
370412419_ubWjQ-M.jpg
370412603_B9F3L-M.jpg


Exhaust Port. Plenty of room to go wider here too.
370412622_EZuAx-M.jpg
370412500_d8tHj-M.jpg
 
Last edited:
**** happens, sucks, but I guess that about settles the use of metal piston stops though.

You should have posted that picture claiming it was detonation, would have been an interesting discussion

I wonder if that hole could be welded shut and a pop up added. But with the shape of the combustion chamber it would take a little work to make it fit.
 
I guess that about settles the use of metal piston stops though.
This one was plastic, so metal would be all that much worse. I guess it's rope from now on! I had always used rope in the past and only recently started using this plastic one.

I wonder if that hole could be welded shut and a pop up added. But with the shape of the combustion chamber it would take a little work to make it fit.
You offering:) I just talked to the dealer. $88!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
It's time to do the deed. I'm happy with the way the stock engine is running on the adjustable WT215 carb. It only took about 25 minutes or less to get the saw apart. But Ultra, ya jinxed me!!:buttkick: I just ruined my first piston. I screwed my plastic piston stop into the jug and put the wrench on the flywheel nut. It went right through the crown of the piston. The crazy thing was only .075" thick! This piston was in great shape too. Oh well, a tiny piston like that can't be too pricey. I can still proceed with the port work on the jug. Now Ultra, where's that piston already? I need it same day delivery:) You know I like to finish my jobs before I start them!:clap:

Check out all the black carbon. The combustion chamber looks similiar. So much for thinking these little things are way too lean!
370412422_Qcreq-M.jpg
370412325_bEyQy-M.jpg


370412304_bEPDM-M.jpg
370412530_MaH5F-M.jpg

If I learn anything from this post, I will now always use rope as my piston stop..
Did it make a sickening "pop" when it happened??
 
Last edited:
Uh oh... Yep.. you should not use screw in stops on the stihl saws that do not have the plug inline with the piston. A guys at out store used one on a 460, a long socket wrench bar on the clutch and did the same...

I don't use them on anything now. The Stihl plastic sppon type stop is inserted so it goes into the swish zone, but it's way too easy to put in the center of the piston with these small combustion chambers. Rope is safest..


I'm confused.. are you using the WT215 or the WT245?



TW: surely welding the piston will run the temper of the aluminum, and make an area of soft "putty-like" Al?
 
Last edited:
Never have torn a clam shell down.....can't tell by pictures.

Dose the regular ring compressor work for them also?


Gary
 
No, but the cases I have seen had a taper to squeeze the ring into the bore, just had to line the ring end up.
 
I believe you can get the standard ring type to work on the 180.. the 290 is a pain without the $4 tool... The std compressor works on the 250 etc.

Hold the tabs in sideways though the bearing bore.
 
I learned the hard way...

Would an impact loosen the flywheel nut without the need to use a piston stop?

Trowed a impact on mine and broken,,maybe I sould say,,,exploded the clutch all over on my mac...Someone on here told me good thing I didnt break the crank doin that so no more impacts for me!!!
 
Looks like a fun project.

I've been thinking about finally firing up the dremel and trying my hand at some porting, and I think I'm finally ready...thanks for the inspiration. Might start with a little Echo 30 or 34cc...then when it's done, we can race!
 
Would an impact loosen the flywheel nut without the need to use a piston stop?

I'm sure you could hold the flywheel with a gloved hand and hit it with an impact. But there's really no reason when you can just push a rope down the spark plug hole and be done with it.

I've got a piston on the way but we'll have to wait until Saturday or Monday to see the final product.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top