My first attempt at a homemade CSM 1"square .083 using super 250 mac

[August76]

Picked up the metal. Cost around $20and then they charged me $8 to cut it all. $3 for the bar clamp bolts at home Depot.
My first cut came out like a ruffles potato chip. The McCulloch is definitely a good saw for this. It made the cut pretty quickly. My reg chain is a 404 pitch and full chisel stihlly and was way loose. I just made a quick cut at 10:30pm to try it without pissing off all the neighbors.
My original plan was 20 inch max by 12 wide with 8 inch bar clamps with pads welded inside. I have about a 24 or bigger on the super 250.
I deviated from my original plan and had to move one of the 1.25" guide tubes to not pinch the roller nose.
Here's some pics.

 

[August76]

Here's the basics of my build. Don't mind my crappy welds . My hobo freight self darkening helmet was failing. So I had to weld without looking sorta.

 

[WolfMann]

Looks good, I like the way you set up the depth adjuster. How does the locking bolt hold up to cut vibrations?

 

[August76]

Looks good, I like the way you set up the depth adjuster. How does the locking bolt hold up to cut vibrations?

So far good. The welding helmet went bad before u could weld the nuts on the bar holder. Unfortunately everything is 9/16 14mm so a scrench won't do. But a extra nut up against the welded on one would for sure lock it if the bolt won't stay

 

[August76]

Anyone care to explain why I'm getting wavy lays potato chip cuts? Is it my chain? I've tried 2 saws. Same result.
My guide board is a 2x6. Seems not enough width.. so maybe the saw is unstable. It doesn't feel funny. Or maybe I'm pushing the saw too fast? Both saws have a full chisel Stihl chain. Got your fav saw in there @MAD proffesor haha

 

[BobL]

Anyone care to explain why I'm getting wavy lays potato chip cuts? Is it my chain? I've tried 2 saws. Same result.

In short, your cut width is synchronising with your chain speed and rate of forward motion. Keep the same forward speed and try angling the bar relative to the log. Or don't push as hard.
It will usually go away when you start cutting wider cuts.

 

[August76]

In short, your cut width is synchronising with your chain speed and rate of forward motion. Keep the same forward speed and try angling the bar relative to the log. Or don't push as hard.
It will usually go away when you start cutting wider cuts.

Ok. This is pretty narrow stuff.
I'm going to cut up and make it rail system out of an old bed frame. that also might help a little bit better so that I can set it up to have the exact ends of the frame rest on the rails instead of riding on a small 2 by 6

 

[WolfMann]

A lot of people use an aluminum ladder too, whatever you use it's nice to have some overhang on either side of log so you can rest the mill on it, definitely makes it easier to start a cut.

The top plate angle of your chain can also effect how smooth the cut is. 0-10° should give you the smoothest cuts. But like others will tell you, a 30° angle can give you a smooth surface too, you just need to be extra steady while cutting it.

 

[August76]

A lot of people use an aluminum ladder too, whatever you use it's nice to have some overhang on either side of log so you can rest the mill on it, definitely makes it easier to start a cut.

The top plate angle of your chain can also effect how smooth the cut is. 0-10° should give you the smoothest cuts. But like others will tell you, a 30° angle can give you a smooth surface too, you just need to be extra steady while cutting it.

I can't find chain for the Mac super 250 it uses .404 and the other saws aren't as good for this . My 038 might do ok but it didn't seem worth the trouble. I'm going to try the ladder. Maybe I have the bar bowed? The powerhead weight is like 25 pounds.

 

[August76]

What would be the best way to attach the ladder to log

 

[WolfMann]

What Ive done is put the ladder on log, figure out overhang, then screw some scrap lumber onto face of log, then screw the ladder to that (scrap lumber). Put a level on top of ladder rails to make sure one side isn't taller than the other.

 

[SeMoTony]

What would be the best way to attach the ladder to log

I use strap pipe hangers as are used under the floor joists for plumbing. Making sure that the screws used to hold on the first cut are long enough to hold the ladder stable. When needed on opposite sides of the crown of the log both ends of ladder Following cuts, be sure the screws don't reach into the kerf unless you want more practice sharpening.

Looks like a good job, use will teach improvements
I angle about 15° from direction of the cut rather than square.
Your mileage may vary

 

[WolfMann]

As far as chain goes, there's the Malloff grind to consider, a round ground, square edge, full comp chain, filed straight across at 0° with a 45° hook angle (50° if using a grinder). Will Malloff called it the ultimate chain for lumbermaking.
Pretty sure he used .404 too.

 

[August76]

As far as chain goes, there's the Malloff grind to consider, a round ground, square edge, full comp chain, filed straight across at 0° with a 45° hook angle (50° if using a grinder). Will Malloff called it the ultimate chain for lumbermaking.
Pretty sure he used .404 too.

I have no idea where to get any chain for this saw. A new clutch drum for 3/8 maybe and new bar. It's an original McCullough roller tip so don't know if 3/8 will work.
I'll have to research that. It has a pretty decent Stihl chain and I should be able to modify it to 0*
I just used the 038 it's not strong enough for this work. Both saws weight so much the frame doesn't want to stay flat a counter weight on the bar end would work wonders

 

[August76]

I use strap pipe hangers as are used under the floor joists for plumbing. Making sure that the screws used to hold on the first cut are long enough to hold the ladder stable. When needed on opposite sides of the crown of the log both ends of ladder Following cuts, be sure the screws don't reach into the kerf unless you want more practice sharpening.
View attachment 673192
Looks like a good job, use will teach improvements
I angle about 15° from direction of the cut rather than square.
Your mileage may vary

I noticed that today when I was using the stihl 038 cutting straight across is the worst at a slight angle it goes through a lot faster I did get a better cut for a min. I wonder if it's just the wood. It's fairly dry

 

[SeMoTony]

I noticed that today when I was using the stihl 038 cutting straight across is the worst at a slight angle it goes through a lot faster I did get a better cut for a min. I wonder if it's just the wood. It's fairly dry

The best surface is not dependant on the chain. After the same amount of air dry time the surfaces of skip chisel cut or comp ripping chain can't really been told apart. The picture that has grooves at several angles on the close end of the log tells that the bar was rocked back& forth. Best I have found is to hold as consistent an angle and the steady speed that has the exhaust singing, can't describe. Maybe when the saw sound happy doin what it's doing; not too free but not bogged down.
I have found that having my off hand above the log with down pressure at the same time it is holding against the push of the cutters being resisted by the end grain assist in balancing it all.
I use the " top" of the bar as the cutting side. That has me lean into the mill to keep the sprocket end away from the bark while holding down. Just the way I started doing before I was aware of this site. With the throttle end closer to end of the cut the angle helps with self feeding. Switching to the more usual manner of milling, the far end of the bar should be closer while the operator holds the powerhead end away from the bark. Having the log at an angle helps self feed as long as milling is done downhill
With my 72cc saw trying to pull chain around a 42" bar I switched to semi-skip square chisel to reduce the cutters involved. I found Madsens has a good supply of all I've needed so far
Stay safe while you enjoy

 

[August76]

The best surface is not dependant on the chain. After the same amount of air dry time the surfaces of skip chisel cut or comp ripping chain can't really been told apart. The picture that has grooves at several angles on the close end of the log tells that the bar was rocked back& forth. Best I have found is to hold as consistent an angle and the steady speed that has the exhaust singing, can't describe. Maybe when the saw sound happy doin what it's doing; not too free but not bogged down.
I have found that having my off hand above the log with down pressure at the same time it is holding against the push of the cutters being resisted by the end grain assist in balancing it all.
I use the " top" of the bar as the cutting side. That has me lean into the mill to keep the sprocket end away from the bark while holding down. Just the way I started doing before I was aware of this site. With the throttle end closer to end of the cut the angle helps with self feeding. Switching to the more usual manner of milling, the far end of the bar should be closer while the operator holds the powerhead end away from the bark. Having the log at an angle helps self feed as long as milling is done downhill
With my 72cc saw trying to pull chain around a 42" bar I switched to semi-skip square chisel to reduce the cutters involved. I found Madsens has a good supply of all I've needed so far
Stay safe while you enjoy

The 038 mag is alot lighter than the Mac. Also boggs way easier. The Mac is hard to make bogg at all! But so much weight on the powerhead has the effect of the tip end wanting to come up. A dumbbell on the other end would probably be amazing in effect.
What saw are you using. My 038 is 72cc not enough saw.
I picked up a husky 372xp last night but I'm not going to use it. I have a makita dolmar 64cc that out performs my 038 so maybe it would be a better choice to use however the bar is too short at 20

 

[August76]

Made some changes. Welded on the other nutts

 

[SeMoTony]

In my avatar is a muf-modded ms-460 with a max flo air filter. Not fast but gets the job done with patience. Since then I jumped (before anyone else) on a 661c with ported cylinder, which is sweet. I have only run a 42" bar on it so far ( in thumbnail on 460) but is much faster than the 460. Torque is much higher which is what overcomes the resistance of cutting. this Oak log convinced me to try a "not ripping" loop. As sharp as I could make that chain it was very slo and spat dust. I have been taught better ways to sharpen chain in milling 101 by BobL. And now have a Simmington grinder for square chisel which someone else got this edge on his chain.I have some learning to do. At any rate a wider log is easier to stabilize the mill on with outboard weights or my lean on it weight.. The link pictured has the gullet round ground to assist the chips to flow. Bout it for now

 

[August76]

In my avatar is a muf-modded ms-460 with a max flo air filter. Not fast but gets the job done with patience. Since then I jumped (before anyone else) on a 661c with ported cylinder, which is sweet. I have only run a 42" bar on it so far ( in thumbnail on 460) but is much faster than the 460. Torque is much higher which is what overcomes the resistance of cutting.View attachment 673256 this Oak log convinced me to try a "not ripping" loop. As sharp as I could make that chain it was very slo and spat dust. I have been taught better ways to sharpen chain in milling 101 by BobL. And now have a Simmington grinder for square chisel which someone else got this edge on his chain.I have some learning to do. At any rate a wider log is easier to stabilize the mill on with outboard weights or my lean on it weight.. The link pictured has the gullet round ground to assist the chips to flow. Bout it for now

Nice the 661 is like 120cc?