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My log splitter build

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by 93green12v, Nov 4, 2015.

  1. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Need some thoughts on this, I'm making a log grate out of 2x2 angle and not happy with the way it's turning out. Need some input, I have a sheet of 12 gauge I may use but would prefer grated instead of solid. At the moment it's removable too.
     
  2. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio Addicted to ArboristSite

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    [​IMG]

    Don't know what you are using it for or where, but have you thought about flooring? This has worked well for me. If this is for an outward push from the splitter itself, double wall pipe? solid bar?
     
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  3. bigbadbob

    bigbadbob Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I took my splitter to Princess Auto and the did custom hoses on site.
    Worked out very well. all 3/4.
    BBB
     
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  4. cantoo

    cantoo Addicted to ArboristSite

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    My offside table on my 36" splitter is 35 x 90" long. I plan to use a tipping wagon to hold it. I used expanded metal that I bought at auction sale last summer. I bought 10 sheets and plan to make the bed of the tipping wagon with it also. Tongue is getting light on mine. I'm planning on a jack on the back anyway but need some tongue weight for towing.
    IMG_20151213_163054.jpg IMG_20151213_163103.jpg
     
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  5. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Haven't posted in along time, it's been a rough year. Any ways I need some input from anyone running a TJD Wisconsin on there splitter. What did you use for a pump bracket to mount it to the engine?

    I recently bought an old Yazoo mower with a TJD that is currently sitting on my splitter but the pump bracket from my TFD isn't the same size. It's too short so again need some ideas please.
     
  6. dave_dj1

    dave_dj1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I'm not much help but I do know that Surplus supply has more than one pump mount available, they come in different lengths. I opted to cut about an inch off my engine shaft to keep things compact.
     
  7. muddstopper

    muddstopper Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I had to cut about a inch off my Kholer engine shaft in order to use a store bought mount. If the shaft is to long, I have no problem sawing the shaft off.
     
  8. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    That would work, what did you use to cut it off? Hack saw or receprocating saw? How did you keep the end of the shaft true and flush?
     
  9. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Any of those will work along with a cut off wheel or angle grinder. Just watch the heat with the last 2 as you don't want to melt a seal. Leave it a little long and true up with a grinder or DA type sander. I use an angle grinder with a 80 grit Regalite Polycut disc. Here is a link to how I did my adapter. It has pics and how to do it. Starts at pic 170.

    http://imageevent.com/kevininohio/woodsplitter?n=0&z=2&c=4&x=0&m=24&w=0&p=0

    The shaft does NOT have to be perfectly flat. You don't want them to touch anyway. You need to have space between your coupling for heat expansion and such. Not doing that and you'll shorten the life of everything.

    [​IMG]

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  10. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Alright well that should save me the headache of trying to make a different mount. It's not going to be fun cutting thru 1-7/16" shaft. I get nervous cutting on crank shafts but I had this done on my last engine I had for a different splitter but I took it to a machine shop to do it.

    Wasn't any easy engine to find so I didn't want to chop off the crank shaft or screw it up.
     
  11. muddstopper

    muddstopper Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I cut my shafts off with a cutoff disc and just lay a wet rag on the shaft while cutting. If you want it to be true and straight, which it doesnt have to be, you can crank up the engine and hit the flat surface with the grinder as it turns. Wouldnt be perfect-perfect, but it would be perfect enough for what it needs to do.
     
  12. Big_Eddy

    Big_Eddy ArboristSite Operative

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    I'm not recommending this, but the Redneck method is to install a blade backwards into your hacksaw, fire the engine up at idle, and slowly lower your hacksaw onto the shaft. Backwards is so if it catches, it pulls the saw out of your hand, doesn't throw it into your face. Safety first!
     
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  13. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Good way to kill myself. I'll pass but I'm sure it's effective.
     
  14. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    I did it cut the crankshaft down and it all fits together now.

    Anyone know how much or any expansion happens in the love joy couplers? I haven't measured how much space I have but it does spin without contact the bracket.
     

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  15. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Here is the TJD I got all mounted up.
     

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  16. GM_Grimmy

    GM_Grimmy Sawfest attendee

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    It'll be fine. Mine is like that too.
     
  17. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    So I'm scratching my head on this and I think I have too many return lines. When I get back to the garage I'll snap a pick of the hose diagram I got with my valves.

    Black and red hose is return and also the tee to the filter is how it's returns.
     

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  18. muddstopper

    muddstopper Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Hard to tell how you have it plumbed with the Hose at the top of the picture, as well as the hose on the left, going out of the pic. It looks to me you are running pressure into the valve on the left side first, and them looping a hose from the PB back to the valve on the right, pressure port. The return from the valve on the right is looped from the rightside valve and connected to the return on the leftside valve, by a tee and then the hose loops out of pic back to the return filter. This should work, but kind of looks like a roundabout way to get there. Not knowing exactly what or why you plumbed things the way you did, I would probably plumb the pressure line into the valve on the right side first, then use a short hose to connect the right side valve PB port to the Pressure port of the left side valve. The return from the first valve, I would probably just run straight to a tee at the filter and also run the return from the second valve to the opposite side of the same tee. I think that would shorthen the hose runs and maybe make the plumbing a little neater without all those looping hoses. Nothing wrong with teeing the return lines together and you do need one return for each valve. Unless you have another line running to the filter that is not in the pic, then things should work the way it is currently plumbed.
     
  19. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    I was told to set it up this way. From a gentleman that works for a local hydraulic company. All the pressure goes to my cylinder first then bleed off to the secondary valve. This is from an engineering perspective. Not the mess of hose I made.

    Pressure line is fed in the left valve( looking at the pic) goes thru the auto cycle valve makes a loop to the second valve that runs the wedge and log lift. Both valves have a return line one is that pressure line that goes out of the frame but both returns go thru the filter.
     
  20. dave_dj1

    dave_dj1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I know you have your shaft cut but when I did mine I fired up the engine and used a cutoff wheel in the grinder, it worked well. In fact it's not the only time I have done this, I installed what is called a slip yoke eliminator on a Jeep transfer case output shaft, same thing, put tape around it, started Jeep, put in gear (no front or rear driveshafts) and used the cut off wheel in the grinder. It makes for a nice straight cut.
     
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