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My log splitter build

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by 93green12v, Nov 4, 2015.

  1. muddstopper

    muddstopper Addicted to ArboristSite

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    With both valves in center position, all oil is going thru the first valve, out the PB, thru pressure port of second valve, out the return port of your second valve to the filter then to tank, either valve will work. When ever the first valve, ( autocycle valve) is shifted, all oil is diverted to the work ports to make the cyl move, and out the return ports of valve back to filter.Since both levers on the ACV are fully shifted, No oil will go to the second valve. Any bleed over of oil to the second valve would be minimal. The only time you will be able to use the second set of valves is when the ACV is in center position. If this is how you want the hyd to work, then your plumbing is correct. I suspect the second valve is your log lift and for some other function not yet determined since the ports are plugged. As plumbed, your log lift will not work as long as the splitting cyl is moving. This might be what you are wanting, but not the way I would do it. It is my personal choice, not a requirement to do it another way. Since a log lift would only take a moment to lift or lower, I think I would want to be able to do so while the splitter is going in and out, not waiting on the splitter to complete its cycle before moving. If you run the fluid thru the valve on the right side first, and then to the autocycle valve, you would be able to activate the autocycle valve and start the splitting and then while the splitter is in cycle, still be able to raise and lower your log lift. The splitting cycle would only be interrupted for the time it takes to make whatever adjustment needed for the log lift and as soon as you released the loglift the spitting cycle would finish. Since you already have your machine plumbed, I would go ahead and give it a try and see if it works to suit you, you can always change it later if you find you want to be able to use the log lift while splitting, its just a matter of moving two hoses, assuming the valve on the right does have PB.
     
  2. muddstopper

    muddstopper Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I thought I might add encase you do decide to plumb as I suggested. The PB port of your Auotcycle valve should have a adapter to make the valve PB capable. It wont be a matter of simply capping that pb port, the adapter will have to be removed. Failure to remove adapter and just capping the PB port will convert the valve to a closed center valve and block oil flow back to tank. The adapter separates the Pressure out port from the return to tank port. Once the adapter is removed, you can use either the pb or the return port for return oil. Since both valves seem to be from the same manufacturer, and the valve on the right currently has the PB port plugged, the valve probably doesnt have the PB adapter installed, I suspect the PB adapter once removed from the valve on the left can be reused in the pb port of the valve on the right. Very important that you dont just cap the PB port of the valve on the left without removing the PB adapter, failure to do so will block high pressure oil and can either blow a hose, burst the valve or bust the pump. At the least it will cause all oil to dump over relief causing oil to over heat

    I also need to ask, have you already tried the current setup and did it work or are you having problems being the reason you are scratching your head and asking about to many return lines. In order for your current setup to work the ACV would have to have the PB adapter installed, otherwise no pressure will build and all oil is just returning back to tank.
     
  3. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Yeah I was splitting wood with it last night!

    I was just concerned I over complicated things or didn't read over the hydraulic diagram I got with the valves very well.

    Both valves have PB ports and I only have on adapter so I'd pull it out any how if I switch it around like you said.
     
  4. muddstopper

    muddstopper Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Better to ask first than find out something is wrong after breaking expensive parts.

    How do you like it so far. I dont see a pic of it splitting wood, You know what everybody says about pic or it didnt happen. ;)
     
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  5. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    It splits, I will shoot a video and toss it up on YouTube when I get everything buttoned up. Shot a small clip on my phone but said it was too big to load.
     

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  6. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Splitting some blue spruce I count down.
     
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  7. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    How do I edit my last post? Just need count changed to cut because I'm an idiot
     
  8. muddstopper

    muddstopper Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Look just below your post, just left of center where it says edit, delete, report. click on edit.
     
  9. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Thanks muddstopper but with the video, there is no edit for me to click on. I'll get it figured out.
     
  10. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Well finally gave my splitter the shake down. Split for about an hour, found some leaks and a loose hydraulic line.

    Besides that was splitting mostly ash and some box elder for fun. It did good except for some knotty nasty pieces. Once I have some money to throw at it I'll buy a bigger cylinder and shorten the stroke or keep it long.
     
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  11. Jakers

    Jakers Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC

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    I would consider welding nuts or even little nipples on the pusher for traction to limit the slippage. when splitting uneven cut crotches and gnarly stuff the pieces will want to kick out or ride up. also maybe add some extensions to it so it pushes past the wedge by half inch or so. that really helps on the stringy stuff that requires full stroke. just friendly advice
     
  12. bigbadbob

    bigbadbob Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I see you dont have a deadman on the valve for the split cycle,, little dangerous, the rest looks awesome.
     
  13. dave_dj1

    dave_dj1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    What is a deadman on the valve?
     
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  14. ChoppyChoppy

    ChoppyChoppy Addicted to ArboristSite

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    When you let go it stops.

    My processor doesn't either, but the splitter has a "v" trough so it's pretty rare to have a hand near the wood.
     
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  15. muddstopper

    muddstopper Addicted to ArboristSite

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    According to wiki, A dead man's switch (for other names, see alternative names) is a switch that is automatically operated if the human operator becomes incapacitated, such as through death, loss of consciousness, or being bodily removed from control

    ball valves are considered deadmans, if they have a spring return handles. A spring return to center control valve would be considered a deadman if the control handle spring returns to center position if you take your hand off the valve. Locomotives use a deadman valve that will stop the train in the event the engineer becomes incapacitated and can no longer control the train. There is also another switch that has to be manually operated at regular intervals to prevent someone from rigging the deadman and bypassing the failsafe. I cant tell what kind of control valve is being used on this splitter. A normal splitter valve is normally spring centered but there are many variations. One variation very common on production splitters would be a spring centered control valve with detent, where if the lever is placed in detent in one direction, the valve will continue to function until a set pressure is met. Another would be a autocycle valve, (which is what I suspect is on this splitter)
    where two levers are activated with detent in both directions. When pressure is made in one direction, the valve automatically shifts spools and directs oil flow in a different direction until pressure is made in that direction and spool is then shifted to center.
     
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  16. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    I add some metal to the push plate for added traction and when I slide the 4 way wedge on it meets the push plate a lot tighter.

    As far as a dead man I got nothing. It's an auto cycle valve so I have found it best to keep one hand on the valve when running it unless you are getting another piece of wood or you may loose some fingers. If you are working with another person they just keep the log lift loaded and the operator never leaves.
     
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  17. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Well its been quite some time since I posted anything but at around the 30 hr of operation of my splitter I had a major failure on my cylinder. Picture is worth it and ill leave it at that until I post a picture. So I need some help deciding how much money I want to toss at a new 5" x 24" cylinder. I have found a few but have 1/2' ports but when I look at the Prince cylinders 3/4 npt or -10 I believe. So are the small ports ever going to be an issue? I'm thinking yes but is it worth spending $200 plus more dollars?
     
  18. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    So here is the reason I need a new cylinder!!
     

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  19. muddstopper

    muddstopper Addicted to ArboristSite

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    You dont need a new cyl, you need a new rod. And put some sort of strap around the cyl to keep it from bucking up and you wont have that problem again.
     
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  20. c5rulz

    c5rulz Addicted to ArboristSite

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    With an auto cycle valve, DON'T EVER WHAT YOU DID AT THE 32 SECOND MARK.

    I just bought a commercial splitter that has one. I made a commitment to myself to never reach once it has been activated.
     
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