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My log splitter build

93green12v

93green12v

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You dont need a new cyl, you need a new rod. And put some sort of strap around the cyl to keep it from bucking up and you wont have that problem again.
Okay this is true I could fix the rod but what’s the cost of that? If I have to spend some money I’d rather improve than repair.

I need a bigger cylinder due to the fact that one gets stuck now and then on crothces and branch unions.
 
93green12v

93green12v

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With an auto cycle valve, DON'T EVER WHAT YOU DID AT THE 32 SECOND MARK.

I just bought a commercial splitter that has one. I made a commitment to myself to never reach once it has been activated.
Well I have 9 3/4 of my fingers left, I get what you are saying. I was a lot more concerned running my friends TW-6 with a 6 way wedge than possibly getting pinched on mine. My wedge and push block have about an 1” of room for your fingers. Yes, I try to keep one hand on the levers at all times.
 
GM_Grimmy

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Okay this is true I could fix the rod but what’s the cost of that? If I have to spend some money I’d rather improve than repair.

I need a bigger cylinder due to the fact that one gets stuck now and then on crothces and branch unions.
You don't need a bigger cylinder, you need a better design so that that doesn't happen at all!! If you get stuff stuck, your wedge isn't designed right. Thinner is better.....to a point. 2300 psi is more than enough pressure on a 5" cylinder to split the nastiest of crotch pieces. If it gets stuck, make a chainsaw cut on it to weaken it and then split it. You don't need more tonnage, you need a better design!

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93green12v

93green12v

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You don't need a bigger cylinder, you need a better design so that that doesn't happen at all!! If you get stuff stuck, your wedge isn't designed right. Thinner is better.....to a point. 2300 psi is more than enough pressure on a 5" cylinder to split the nastiest of crotch pieces. If it gets stuck, make a chainsaw cut on it to weaken it and then split it. You don't need more tonnage, you need a better design!

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I don’t have a 5” cylinder on there to start with it’s a 3.5” cylinder with a 36” stroke. I can watch the rod torque/bend when I would split wood with it....for my wedge design it’s just a 1/2” x12” steel tapered to a point.
 
triptester

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The problem could be from a combination of things. Too small of rod for the 36" stroke. Too much flex in the beam due to added stroke length.
 
muddstopper

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A 36in stroke? I missed that in the thread. I agree, that long of a stroke can cause bucking problems with your cyl. With the cyl extended thats over 6ft from end to end. I can only suspect as to what the problems are, a 3.5in bore cyl should split about anything except the nasiest of nasties croches.. Changeing out the 3.5 bore for a 5in one will give you a lot more tonnage, but it will also increase the chances of bending another rod. Going to a larger dia rod will help, but with that much flex, you will just wear out the rod seals with the side pressure as the cyl tries to buck up. Unless you really need to split 36in logs, I would look for a shorter cyl. I would also make a hoop to go around the cyl barrel on the rod end to help hold it down. I used to run a piece of equipment that had a 4in cyl with a 8ft stroke and 2in rod. If you hit anything extending the boom, it would make a bowtie out of the cyl rod. Cyl would cycle 13 times a min, you had to really watch what was in the way.
 
93green12v

93green12v

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In my first post I stated I wanted 5x24 cylinder to replaced this one. I understand I’ll be fabricating a bunch to make the new one fit.

What brand/company would you gents recommend and where and what price did you pay?

Sorry for some of the confusion.
 
muddstopper

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I bought my 5in cyl at Northern tool a few years ago. They had the best price at the time. I did find a few problems with the Northerntool brand. First thing was it had 3/4 ports, but the hose bungs where just welded over a 3/8 hole. I decided to disassemble the cyl to drill out the holes. When I tore the cyl down, I found it full of metal shavings. Those shaving would have totally destroyed my hyd system if I hadnt of found them first. I drilled out the ports to the largest size drill that would fit inside the thread of the pipe bung, washed the cyl out with brake clean and put it all back together. It has been working well now for several years. I split large dia wood with a 6way wedge.
 
93green12v

93green12v

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Well pulled the trigger today bought a 5x24x2.5” cylinder from Splitez.
http://m.splitez.com/logsplitter_cylinders.htm

Done screwing around, more than I wanted to spend but I don’t want to ever have to think about it again....
Going from a 3.5" cylinder to a 5" is gonna slow things down pretty dramatically.
10 second cycle time I can live with. That'll out work me all day long.
 
93green12v

93green12v

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Another question for you guys. What thickness is your wedge? Planning on making a 4 way wedge and need to know how thin of material you guys have used and has held up.....Pictures would really help.
 
muddstopper

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My main wedge is 3/4x9inchs deep and it is 24in tall. The 6way is 3/4 and each wing is 4in wide and 7 in long. just over 14 inches side to side. I havent bent them yet. The steel is T1 from a ballast (rock) plow.
 
4seasons

4seasons

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View attachment 674747 Finally got my new cylinder. Wow is this thing huge compared to my old one!
Don't forget to put some big U-bolts around the lower end of the cylinder so it doesn't do what your old one did.
Did you say you would have a 10 second cycle time with the new cylinder? How big of a pump are you running?

As for the wedge, mine is 1 inch wide with no flare. It acts like a knife on stringy wood like hickory. The only used of a wide flare on the wedge is to separate the wood faster so you don't have to use the whole stroke. With your fast cycle time and auto cycle valve there is no point of short cycling splits. I just let the next piece push it off the end into a pile, or a trailer.

Not to highjack your thread because I think you said something about a 4 way also, but I am planning on putting a 4way on mine also. But I am not sure if I should make a slip on to go over my current wedge, or add a bar behind the wedge for the 4 way to ride up and down on. I have concerns about strength if I run a rod behind the wedge although I have seen commercial machines use this design.

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93green12v

93green12v

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Don't forget to put some big U-bolts around the lower end of the cylinder so it doesn't do what your old one did.
Did you say you would have a 10 second cycle time with the new cylinder? How big of a pump are you running?

As for the wedge, mine is 1 inch wide with no flare. It acts like a knife on stringy wood like hickory. The only used of a wide flare on the wedge is to separate the wood faster so you don't have to use the whole stroke. With your fast cycle time and auto cycle valve there is no point of short cycling splits. I just let the next piece push it off the end into a pile, or a trailer.

Not to highjack your thread because I think you said something about a 4 way also, but I am planning on putting a 4way on mine also. But I am not sure if I should make a slip on to go over my current wedge, or add a bar behind the wedge for the 4 way to ride up and down on. I have concerns about strength if I run a rod behind the wedge although I have seen commercial machines use this design.

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I am making one that the 4 way hides below the H beam and adjust with a small cylinder.

Pump is 22gpm.... my plan was to make a slip on like Timberwolf but I found it’s a pita to pull a heavy wedge off for knarly pieces or really big stuff. I’m sure I’m gonna find the next weak point in my splitter with this new cylinder.

Started removing everything that needs to go for the new cylinder and shortening of the beam. Going from a 36” stroke to 24” don’t need all the extra beam. I’ll have my steel next week to start fabing up.
 

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kevin j

kevin j

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5B instead of 3.5B is drastic force and bending increase.
I would add another beam under it.
Boxing the sides helps a bit, but not as much as getting more depth to the beam.
 
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