My splitter build

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This is soooo pretty and expensive. It's only rated for 25GPM. Will that be ok for my 28GPM pump?
I can get it for $277 with power beyond for an adjustment cylinder for the 4-way. The small cylinders and single spool low flow valves are pretty cheap.

I'm trying to wrap my head around the hose routing for this thing so that I can order it all at once. I'll keep you all posted.
 
Rattler05.5 said:
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This is soooo pretty and expensive. It's only rated for 25GPM. Will that be ok for my 28GPM pump?
I can get it for $277 with power beyond for an adjustment cylinder for the 4-way. The small cylinders and single spool low flow valves are pretty cheap.

I'm trying to wrap my head around the hose routing for this thing so that I can order it all at once. I'll keep you all posted.
Click to expand...

I asked the same question and was told by a guy who builds them for a living they hold up fine. No problems with mine and I have a 28 GPM pump. You'll like it ;)

MVC-023S_18.JPG
 
Rattler05.5 said:
Ugh, Best I can do. It is here>
MVI_9054.mp4 Video by papagrande2001 | Photobucket
Click to expand...

walkerdogman85 said:
Couldnt find the video.
Click to expand...

Click this link above, it should take you to photobucket where the video is.

I split a bunch of 28" long logs today. It does ok if only splitting in half. I will be able to use it until the new valve arrives. I haven't had the pump kick into high pressure once. I'm guessing with the valve relieving the pressure there is too much flow to kick over into high pressure.

On and on it goes.
 
I'm already seeing things that I might change. For instance, the 4-way wedge needs to be wider on the horizontal wings. It is not completely splitting the top from the bottom 1/4. I think it might help to set the horizontal knives back farther. I guessed at where they should be and I think it needs more. It will be easy enough to make another slip on 4-way that hopefully will work better.

I still need to figure out the plumbing for the auto cycle valve and order all of that at once.
 
Time to update this. Looks like I threw some parts at a problem and it didn't fix anything. I've upgraded my valve and now I still have to fix the problem.

I think my cylinder is bad. I present this video below for you to look at. If I max extend the cylinder rod, disconnect the return line, and try to extend or pressurize the extend side it passes(leaks) a lot of fluid at idle into the return side of the valve. I put the return hose into a bucket and saw lots of fluid, even at idle.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http:%2F%2Fvid250.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg261%2Fpapagrande2001%2FSplitter%2520build%2FIMG_1893.mp4">
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/FbyEgTpnqjw?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Cylinder toast? Not sure if I can rebuild it, or if it's even worth it. I welded the rod in solid so it will likely do it some harm to get it out. :bang:
What to do?
 
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I would say that you should be able to rebuild it. As long as the inside of the tube isn't all rusted or scratched up.
I know when I first put mine together there was a piece missing in the valve, it acted very similarly, do you have the power beyond port in and not using it? It perhaps could be part of the issue? Just a guess though.
One thing people may not know is that the valves can be mounted upside down and the handles turned back up. I know this is useless to you as you already have yours plumbed .
I hung my cylinder up by the rod end and took it apart that way. I used the overhead winch in the shop. I just wanted to look it over inside.
 
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The power beyond port is also the return to the tank. There is a relief in the valve but I'm not building pressure because it is leaking internally in the cylinder. I think I saw pressure of 2000psi once but now it only hits 1000.

There should not be any fluid coming out of the return port when putting pressure to the split side correct?

The other issue is I have no idea who makes the cylinder. How would I start to rebuild it? (aside from opening it up)
 
I'm no expert but I don't think there is all that much to them. A couple of O-rings and a seal. There should be some sort of wide scraper band but unless it's bad you can reuse it. The seal is just a wiper seal.
As far as the valve, I assume you had the same trouble before you put the new valve on? I'm not all that familiar with the power beyond port.
There is a guy JJ, over at Tractorbynet that is VERY good with hydraulics. I'm sure he would be glad to answer your questions. In the hydraulic section.
If I just crack my lift valve it will actually go down instead of up unless I pull it a little farther, I think it's the nature of the way valves are milled. They are precision milled.
good luck,
dave
 
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not sure what to make of this cylinder. It looks like it is welded on with a smaller diameter then there are bolts into the face of the cylinder. I had tightened the bolts to slow the leaking at the very front. Not sure what kind of a packing/seal there is in there.

If it necks down to a smaller diameter how can the seal on the butt of the rod come out? Just going to have to dive into it and see I guess. Cutting torch and hydraulic fluid galore!

The overall question will be how much time and money to dump into this cylinder. When I got it, it was rusted really badly. How well can it ever seal now? Any pitting will cause a leak onto the rod. Not a big deal if I can get the innards sealed up.

This is why I hate using used crap. It has not gone well yet! My wife finally asked today if it would have been cheaper to just buy a new one. :mad2:

The auto cycle valve sure is sweet though! :cool2:
 
dave_dj1 said:
I'm no expert but I don't think there is all that much to them. A couple of O-rings and a seal. There should be some sort of wide scraper band but unless it's bad you can reuse it. The seal is just a wiper seal.
As far as the valve, I assume you had the same trouble before you put the new valve on? I'm not all that familiar with the power beyond port.
There is a guy JJ, over at Tractorbynet that is VERY good with hydraulics. I'm sure he would be glad to answer your questions. In the hydraulic section.
If I just crack my lift valve it will actually go down instead of up unless I pull it a little farther, I think it's the nature of the way valves are milled. They are precision milled.
good luck,
dave
Click to expand...

Dave,
To answer your questions. When I had the old valve on it I could only achieve 900psi and I attributed it to the pressure relief in that valve not being adequate. Now I have a nice new auto cycle valve, sigh, and the same problem. I'm pretty sure I saw the gauge hit 2000 psi once but now I don't know how that could have happened. All of the pressure is being leaked internally into the return line when encountering any significant pressure.

The pressure beyond in this valve is also the outlet back to the tank/filter if you don't have another valve connected in series. I read the directions.
 
Well that leaves on thing left to do, tear her down and give her a look see. They hold more fluid than you think so be careful when you empty it.
There's a video floating around youtube of the disasembly of a cylinder with a different kind of snap ring, it's internal and has to be accessed through the return port.
Good luck
dave
 
I've already sprayed fluid all over the place. I know that it holds almost 5 gallons of oil!! It's going to be a mess!

The bad part is that I don't have wheels under it and our tractor was hauled off for some work today so it will have to wait. I parked it right next to the wood pile before the tractor left thinking that the valve was going to fix it. Going to be a couple of weeks before anything happens.

6-8" of snow is coming in tonight with a high of 12 tomorrow. It makes me wonder if cold fluid would build better pressure. ????
 
The pressure beyond in this valve is also the outlet back to the tank/filter if you don't have another valve connected in series. I read the directions.

The outlet port on any power beyond valve must return to tank. No matter how many you have in series. If your not using the power beyond just put the plug back in it . This may not fix your cylinder problem, but the valve will be plumbed correct. Hope this helps.
 
Kevin in Ohio said:
I asked the same question and was told by a guy who builds them for a living they hold up fine. No problems with mine and I have a 28 GPM pump. You'll like it ;)

MVC-023S_18.JPG
Click to expand...

If I plug the beyond port there would be nothing returning to the tank. Here is Kevin's and you see the pressure feed coming up from the bottom and the opposite side goes to his next valve, then to the filter/reservoir. I don't have another valve so it just goes through the filter and into the reservoir.

Looks like there is a hydraulic service place in Denver. I may see what they charge to rebuild the cylinder. I don't think it would be hard but I don't want to fight with getting the correct parts. Depending on what they charge they may just do it and test it. Or, on the other hand, they may see my rod and laugh at me. (wow, that sounds bad!!)
 
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