KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
Not sure Keith i've never had my saws that close to the edge they're more on the fat side and my 372 and 390 i have to push a little or dog in to really clean up so even if im limbing 4" wood im still ok.
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- Thread starter KG441c
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KG441c
Keith
Makes sense. Better safe than sorry but my point was mtronics is optimum regardless of situation. Carbs to me r like manual shift
KG441c
Keith
My Mastermind ported 461 is extremely nice and runs flawless but Id trade it in a minute for a 661c
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
I let you analyze all this stuff Keith i just read your report like with the oil
KG441c
Keith
Anybody got a 661c they wanna trade for a masterminded 461 with about 5 tanks through it?
GCJenks204
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After your speech about M-tronic? If it was a 441CM that had some extra bananas I might think about taking a trip up the road but... I think if a newbie like me is going to have something that nice it better tune itself or I will kill it some how.
It's funny, I never realised how many people can't tune a saw until recently, I kind of knew most homeowners have no idea but most of the professionals I've met don't either, not even increasing idle speed
KG441c
Keith
Very true! I can tune one but ill take an Mtronics/Autotune anyday over manual carb
KG441c
Keith
Theres just too many advantages of mtronics over a manual carb but in the right hands the standard carb is deadly!!! To me tuning a carb is like a manual shift vehicle. Mtronics cranks easy, idles perfect, accelerates quick, adjust for optimum cut regardless the size of wood! Whats not to like? Let me guess , "It has too much stuff on it !!" Really???? A board and a solenoid???
A computer board and a solenoid inside a rattle box out in all manner of weather - what could possibly go wrong?
KG441c
Keith
Who all wants to go back to carb vehicles with manual shift?
It's nearly impossible to find an automatic car in Europe that isn't a Mercedes or a rental car. I haven't driven an automatic in 3 years.
My point was it isn't perfect, and there are genuine reasons to be wary about it's reliability - and the cost of repair.
KG441c
Keith
Board is around 150 and the solenoid im not sure? If you havent tried mtronics u should give it a whirl. My opinion is if a board or a solenoid made a saw unreliable and we used that philosophy with cars we would still be in the stone age with vehicles? Seems vehicles have worked out just fine with electronics and solenoids?
I remember when they first came out for cars - they weren't reliable.
I'm not saying it doesn't work - they obviously do. In fact, I am surprised it took so long to introduce them.
I am saying there are more parts, and more to go wrong. Especially when you are using parts that are known not to be reliable in the types of operations, weather conditions, and vibration levels a chainsaw has to deal with - especially when they have already shown to be less reliable than their predecessors, both here on these boards, and in practise here in the UK and Ireland. I am paid to use my saw - if it is unreliable, my pay is unreliable. To others, it may make no difference. Some here have dozens of saws, and it makes no matter how reliable they are - they are basically toys. I don't toy with my saws, and I expect them to be reliable. MT and AT still haven't shown themselves to be as reliable as a standard carb. I have personally seen and read about too many horror stories from professionals to jump on board yet. Eventually, they will come around, or we will run out of standard carbs. One or the other. Until then, I am not exactly missing out with my ported saws using standard carbs being all reliable and stuff.
KG441c
Keith
Ive read plenty of reviews of logging crews being handed mtronics to try and none of them wanted to go backwards
KG441c
Keith
Reliability is still up in the air I guess on mtronics but for a professional user mtronics in every other way is better
There must be extra windings in the fan/flywheel, maybe something to regulate the electricity produced.
tacomatrd98
ArboristSite Guru
I didnt read the entire thread yet but...I am gonna say you will kill the lightness and flick-ability that saw is known for with a cannon bar. I could be wrong but I would go with the OEM Stihl Rollo E 18 picco bar. Doesnt mean you shouldnt try it. If they werent 100 ducks I would have one just to try too.
I have not tried the 8t on the picco yet as there was noticeable torque drop going to the 7t 3/8. The 7T .325 did not seem much different as far as lugging power is concerned than the 6t spur it came with.
I have run on mine with combinations of 6t spur or 7t rims the following:
16" picco Stihl Rollomatic E bar - good setup, just to short to be practical
18" picco Stihl Rollomatic E bar - Highly recommended. My favorite setup. best overall performance / balance.
16" .063 .325 Stihl Rollomatic E bar - works well but again, too short for my liking
16" .050 .325 GB Arbor Pro solid RSN bar - cuts faster than the stihl bar for some reason, but makes the saw more nose heavy.
18" .325 .050 STIHL Rollomatic E bar - Would be my 2nd choice behind the 18" picco bar.
To me it works the best with the 18" stihl bars. The 16" 3005 mount bars seem too short for anybody not a troll. The .325 is a larger chain and works better for brush cutting and heavier work than the picco just for wear reasons but it seems slower in actual wood to me due to the slower chain speed than picco with the 7t rim. A 6t spur makes it a relative torque monster. Overall, I personally like the picco as I can swap bars with my 201T if I have to when I'm out cutting should I booger a chain on one of them and need to use the other for a given task. Plus it's one less type of filing equip to drag along. I take stuff for picco and full 3/8 and I'm set. Sorry for the long post.
KG441c
Keith
I agree. I like the 6 spur , 3/8 ps chain with rakers at .025, and the stihl 18 bar for all around performance
KG441c
Keith
Appreciate the post. Useful info
