Discussion in 'Chainsaw Stickies' started by WesternSaw, Jun 21, 2008.
Welcome to the site, and your in the right place for Pioneer help. @pioneerguy600 knows those older saws quite well, and should be able to help you out.
your 2nd to last pic shows choke lever. there will be a detent where it's open. move it up/down, should feel it.
there is no primer.
toggle switch [same pic] is kill. check for spark, both positions, as switch/on off plate could be backward/upsidedown. if none, points might need attention.
16" is short for these saws, but will get ya started cuttin once ya get it goin.
my 620 got 28" on it.
if ya get spark, check for clean tank & flexible fuel line, put nuff mix in to cover filter, give [+choke] few pulls, watch for fuel in glass bowl.
if ya dont get any, gonna hafta get into findin leaks.
lil squirt o fuel down carb might get it goin.
where in canuckistan are you? if in my area, i'd help if you can come by.
Here are Pics of my late HA / early HB production lel Saw. Thanks with the help of Joe Farrell & P62 to identifie Saw. Any other info on model is welcomed.
Check to see if the glass fuel bowl will fill with fuel, the fuel line ,tank filter and felt filter in the fuel bowl base are often problematic in getting these saws to run correctly.The choke switch /handle is mounted on the right side of the carb, the off on switch is also on the right rear of the saw, difficult to say which position, up or down on the switch toggle is on or off as these switches often got turned over previously. Up was usually run and down was most often off position. The points and condenser mounted under the flywheel may still work, lots of times the point contacts need to be polished up to allow electrical charge to flow, the condenser may be all dried out and hold no charge buildup if you cannot get spark to the plug.
All the previous points mentioned here are excellent. l like to mention that Oil And Gas mix is required, The old saws l usually check the condition of the piston and cylinder before attempting to pull start or work on, by removing the muffler and looking at cyl and piston, it should not be scored and remove any if any carbon buildup around cyl ports or muffler opening.
l also find the ignition sparkplug wire problematic on the old engines because it will cause a ign weak spark or even intermentant false reading. the moisture will penetrate the old rubber as it starts to deteroiate, l always replace with new one.
Correct spark plug to use is Champion J8J
Lots of good information on starting up an old saw here but we need feedback from the person working on the saw so that we can help in any specific way. Between the regulars on this thread there is enough experience to cover any problem a Pioneer chainsaw could have.
This saw was one of two that came in a shed of an estate I bought two years ago. Literally the reason I got into chainsaws. Its a good running saw, lot of compression. I don't think it was used that much but after sitting in a shed for years the paint is falling off real bad. Gas cap is swollen, and the starter rope is short, Kill switch will bite sometimes, comes with 20" 3/8 pioneer bar.
Ill let her go for cheap if someone is interested. Trying to clear some space in my garage.
Correction, gas cap not swollen, and I put a new rope on her. $40 plus the ride? Looks like original pioneer chain on it.
Sweet saw. Very nicely done. Joe and P62 are very knowledgeable guys
and know there Pioneers.
Price seems fair . Nice Stable.
I posted a want ad in the classifieds but have had zero luck so far. Would anyone here have a felling dawg for a P50/51/52 they would like to sell?
Bryce with Cheap chainsaw parts makes falling spikes for many of the old saws
Thank you for that link. Since I am in Canada, I can't see Ebay.com ads that don't specify shipping to Canada. I prefer to keep my old saws stock-appearing, but I have bookmarked that link and will consider it if I can't find a factory dawg, or a copy of one.
Thats a copy of the Western spike. both my P42W & P61W have those spikes.
I have some of the stock dawgs that I had made. They are the more rounded looking dawgs, not the western version with the sharp points. Let me know if you are interested in them.
I didn't get very far on the re-assembly on the weekend. Got caught up building interior railings for my parents house renovation and *poof* the weekend was over.
The muffler from @cbfarmall looks awesome! Thanks again Chris!
Spraymax 2k clear coat on everything so it should be fuel proof.
Plastic chip guard made out of a flexible cutting board.
One of the things holding me up right now is my inability to find 7mm solid core spark plug wire. I've called every auto parts place, most of the small engine shops and some of the high performance race shops looking for it but have come up empty, short of having one of the shops special order a roll of it for me. Any suggestions where to look next? I only need 14" or so.
I know this is a quality OMC Johnson/Merc replacement. If shipping is to high PM me I'll send it north .
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