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Pioneer chainsaws

p61 western

p61 western

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Thanks - The paint I had planned to use is 2K PPG Delthane (single stage) urethane (AKA Delfleet), which uses an activator (AKA "hardner"). Its stupid expensive, so I'm open to suggestions (currently looking at Omni paint, which is PPG line also). Seems that single stage (ie, no clear coat needed) is getting hard to find...

Having said this, my experience with "Rustoleum" type paint, rattle can paint, and other single stage consumer paint has been poor, particularly for something that will be bathed in fuel and oil.

Looks like POR15 makes a prepackaged 2K product in "safety yellow" that might work...still expensive though; ~ $80 qt shipped USD. Getting hard for DIY'ers...
Stay away from the Omni single stage. Rattle can will hold up better. The PPG is expensive, but worth it. You could also clear over the single stage for more protection.
 

ML12

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Thanks - The paint I had planned to use is 2K PPG Delthane (single stage) urethane (AKA Delfleet), which uses an activator (AKA "hardner"). Its stupid expensive, so I'm open to suggestions (currently looking at Omni paint, which is PPG line also). Seems that single stage (ie, no clear coat needed) is getting hard to find...

Having said this, my experience with "Rustoleum" type paint, rattle can paint, and other single stage consumer paint has been poor, particularly for something that will be bathed in fuel and oil.

Looks like POR15 makes a prepackaged 2K product in "safety yellow" that might work...still expensive though; ~ $80 qt shipped USD. Getting hard for DIY'ers...
I've used rattle can, then top coated with a 2k spray can from SprayMax. It seems to hold up well.
Its not powder coat, but for the occasional use restored saw it does the trick.
 
hisport

hisport

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I've used rattle can, then top coated with a 2k spray can from SprayMax. It seems to hold up well.
Its not powder coat, but for the occasional use restored saw it does the trick.
Thanks ML12!
Great idea. I have plenty of 2K urethane clearcoat. Which brand of colored hairspray ; ) did you use? Did you have to let it dry for long before topcoating?

Hate to spend another ~$100+ on paint for this old saw (and, I already have $200+ in it just in parts, for those of you wondering about the economics of old Pioneer P51 saw restoration). I'll consider it sort of a monument to mechanical sympathy. Anyhow, hope it runs well when done...

Appreciate the continuing help and advice from the wonderful folks on this thread!
 

ML12

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Thanks ML12!
Great idea. I have plenty of 2K urethane clearcoat. Which brand of colored hairspray ; ) did you use? Did you have to let it dry for long before topcoating?

Hate to spend another ~$100+ on paint for this old saw (and, I already have $200+ in it just in parts, for those of you wondering about the economics of old Pioneer P51 saw restoration). I'll consider it sort of a monument to mechanical sympathy. Anyhow, hope it runs well when done...

Appreciate the continuing help and advice from the wonderful folks on this thread!
I tend to use high temperature engine enamels. Although honestly, the last 2 I did were just tremclad. a good etching primer is recommended, and surface prep is important.

I let the primer dry overnight, then do color. Usually I do 2 light coats within an hour and get good coverage. I'll let that dry for at least a week before spraying clear. The reason I wait so long is that in the past I've had clear coats interact badly with not fully cured color coats and its not great.
 
bushwhacker84

bushwhacker84

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Looking at getting a 32" bar for my P39 for my Alaskan. Question is, can it handle the bar? Anyone ever try?


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hisport

hisport

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So I'm better to stick with the 24" it has eh.. Thank you!


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Bush - do you plan on ripping boards with an Alaskan portable mill? As you may know, a good ripping chain (eg, Granberg) will cut smoother and use less power, particularly if you set up the bar at an angle to the end grain. That said, ripping wide boards really soaks up horsepower (in my limited experience). Maybe a good ol' P61 to compliment that nice P39?
 
bushwhacker84

bushwhacker84

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Bush - do you plan on ripping boards with an Alaskan portable mill? As you may know, a good ripping chain (eg, Granberg) will cut smoother and use less power, particularly if you set up the bar at an angle to the end grain. That said, ripping wide boards really soaks up horsepower (in my limited experience). Maybe a good ol' P61 to compliment that nice P39?
Know anyone who has a P61 for sale? Always looking to expand my Pioneer collection haha And yes with an Alaskan Portable and matching ripping chain with whatever bar I end up using


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ML12

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I've done a little bit of milling with one of my P50's. At 80cc its much bigger than the P39 and its about the lower limit for power for milling. I ran a 32" bar on it with 3/8" skip regular angles (35 deg. etc etc). In soft red cedar it did ok, but I couldn't push it at all, the motor had enough power, but the clutch just isn't big enough to handle it and will slip. The saw also got very, very warm and while it didn't boil the fuel, it was pretty close. My other gripe is the poor air filtration, my P50 doesn't have the rubber boot thing around the air filter and the fit of the air filter into the elbow isn't great, so it let a lot of fine dust by. If I was to mill again with it, I'd use a V stack set up.

P50 milling.jpg

I have a Husky 181 and 32" bar that I use for small (<24" wide) milling duty now. In all honesty its no better than the P50, but I feel less bad about beating on it as parts are still available.

The P50 is much better for this:
20150214_115212.jpg
 
liquidfoot

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Beavers

Beavers

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3270 update, so l got my seals in today, installed the revised primer system hoses on, new clutch shoes , F/W holder seen in the pics to hold crank while torqueing clutch and flywheel nut, new ignition system installed , rebuilt carb.
new on/off switch installed.
lts coming along and closer to the end.
 

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hisport

hisport

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3270 update, so l got my seals in today, installed the revised primer system hoses on, new clutch shoes , F/W holder seen in the pics to hold crank while torqueing clutch and flywheel nut, new ignition system installed , rebuilt carb.
new on/off switch installed.
lts coming along and closer to the end.
Beautiful work!
(Particularly like your flywheel wrench)
 
brandonstc6

brandonstc6

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I picked up this pioneer 650 yesterday. Has a fine screen air filter and a flocked one underneath. Both are in bad shape, I found the fine screen one on eBay. The starter spring doesn’t retract all the way and the starter doesn’t grab the flywheel well. I plan to restore the saw early next year. IMG_5703.jpg IMG_5704.jpg IMG_5705.jpg IMG_5708.jpg IMG_5707.jpg IMG_5706.jpg


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JW51

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Pioneer Newb Question:

Is a FarmSaw basically the same thing as a P42? If not, could someone highlight the differences?
 

Lou

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I cannot speak for a P42. but I can verbalize a few things about the FarmSaw.
The starter is plastic! Never try to start one without the compression release.
Do not run one with the starter cord partly extended.
The ignition system is susceptible to moisture. If you loose spark, it's almost certainly your coil. They can often be baked to remove moisture (there are procedures in earlier posts in this thread) and make them operable once again.
When working, they more than earn their pay.
My FarmSaw ran a 20" bar for many years (1979 - low 1990s with a 3-year break for Germany and 1.5 years in South Dakota, brr!), I stepped that up to 24 inches about 15 years back, and I think Mike Acres says it will pull 28 inches.
She's pretty much retired today (probably 10 years) but she was good to me.
 
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