Scored Piston & Ring Questions

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leeave96

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OK, I have a dumb question.

If the piston on your saw is scored and you have low to no compression, is the problem the scored piston or the rings?

Is it always necessary to replace the piston and rings - what about the cylinder, or can you hone it out?

Doesn't the compression come from the rings and if so, then why care about if the piston is scored?

Just courious - thanks for your replies in advance.

Bill
 
OK, I have a dumb question.

If the piston on your saw is scored and you have low to no compression, is the problem the scored piston or the rings?

The rings make almost all of the compression. The issue with a scored piston is typically going to be the rings get seized and the aluminum transferred from the piston to the cylinder does not allow the rings to seal against the cylinder wall tightly. It is possible to have a lightly scored piston still function if the rings are unaffected and the amount of aluminum transferred in minimal. Reed valve saws can run with stuck rings and scored piston. It is more about running properly and long term performance. Once scoring has occurred it will only get worse until the engine stops working and the issue or cause of the damage is repaired a long with any additional damaged parts. A scored piston and cylinder is almost always a symptom of the actual problem.

Is it always necessary to replace the piston and rings - what about the cylinder, or can you hone it out?

In most instances it is better to replace the piston and the rings if both have damage. It is not always required but is the easiest way to ensure good results that will last. Do a search for information about honing, lots of information and opinions on that subject. The cylinder can often be re used if the cylinder wall, port edges and plating have not suffered severe damage.


Doesn't the compression come from the rings and if so, then why care about if the piston is scored?

A scored piston will trap carbon, etc. in the marks and tend to wear out fast and or cause additional damage to the cylinder. The piston wall is also needed to build compression, provides "bearing or "guiding" wear surface and to guide the air charge through the cylinder.

Just courious - thanks for your replies in advance.

Bill

Do a search, tons and tons of information.
 
Last edited:
Justsaws,

I appreciate your detailed answers to my questions - much thanks.

I am hack mechanic at best and replies such as yours very much help me (and likely others) understand a little deeper the why and how, in this case, a scored piston effects/damages a chainsaw. Again thanks for your insite.

As to the others who feel the need to contribute nothing but crass BS comments towards me - you guys can kiss my a#*

Bill
 
Justsaws,

I appreciate your detailed answers to my questions - much thanks.

I am hack mechanic at best and replies such as yours very much help me (and likely others) understand a little deeper the why and how, in this case, a scored piston effects/damages a chainsaw. Again thanks for your insite.

As to the others who feel the need to contribute nothing but crass BS comments towards me - you guys can kiss my a#*

Bill

bill dont take it personal on those comments you be surprised how many have things against me as well but its there problem not mine
 
When a piston gets "scored," some of the aluminum it is comprised of transfers to the cylinder wall. This reduces the diameter of the piston. In a piston port engine (virtually all saws now) The skirt of the piston also functions as your intake "valve." The port is uncovered at the appropriate time, and fuel charge goes into the bottom end. If the clearance between the piston and the wall is large enough, some of the fuel charge will spit back through after the port is closed. Also, exessive piston to cylinder clearance causes piston slap, which is the piston rocking in the bore. Piston slap, in turn causes more wear on the skirt. In the end, the very thin piston skirt will break, and trash the entire top and bottom end.
Running a scored piston is never desirable. Sometimes you must for one reason or another. Saving money is not usually a good reason. This is false economy. Once that piston breaks, it will trash a whole bunch of parts, other than just the $35 piston.

With that said....... If the ring grooves are free of scoring, and it is not totally wasted, here is a basic test. Take the rings off the piston, and put it in the bore you intend to run it in. Make sure it is dry (no oil) for the test. Put your thumb over the spark plug hole, and turn the cylinder over. If the piston slowly drops out in maybe 5 or more seconds, it is probably tight enough. If it flops right out, it is way too loose. I have seen folks here say to sand down the scoring. This only increases tolerances. If you must use a scored one, just knock off the high spots, and then do the previously mentioned test.
 

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