Snellerized Saws Re-Visits the MS241C

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Would one of these make a good carving saw with a small tipped carving bar ?
 
Would one of these make a good carving saw with a small tipped carving bar ?
I'd struggle to imagine how when you can buy a rear handle 150 that's already setup for 1/4 chain.
I'm sure it'd work, but I'd choose the lighter option - and have a larger saw with standard chain for roughing in.
 
Brad you if you want the same 14" 3/8 050 LIGHT picco bar ya got for me on a rear handle MS201......P/N: 3005 000 7409. The same bar in standard non light is P/N 3005 000 4809. l recomend the light wieght option in 14" as they are really light in theme with the saw. The 16" light would be good
too but l don't have that P/N on hand.
 
I'm still trying to decide 150 or 150T......
Scared I'll get both......
But now the 241 sounds good........
But I always grab the 026 you ported for me......
Aaaaaaaa
l have a rear handle ms150.......its like a kids toy but a real one!lol l got it as Stihl Aust does not offer it in here for sale, just the top handle. CAD got the better of me so l snagged the last minty one that came up for sale in the post from a member. lt's had Brads mods but is not ported. lt performs well and is extremely light with 10" 3/8 043 bar. However l find the throttle trigger quite stiff and it cramps my hand when l use it for more than a tank. l don't regret buying it but would say the T/H is a nicer setup to run, you can use it all day in 1or2 hands and get no fatigue. After all stihl spends huge resources in its design to be perfectly balanced to the point it will sit dead flat with b/c held (suspended) by one finger. All that get's kinda wasted when a rear handle is fitted. The 150 in top handle setup is a saw l am yet to hear an 'owner' say a bad word about in fact those who use them absolutely love em! Quarter inch chain really helps them but 043 3/8 works well too. I don't like the tooney tip quarter inch pointy bars so l run the 10" light bar with wider nose in 3\8.043. Sounds like you will buy a 150 in some form.....just thought I'd throw in my opinion.
 
l have a rear handle ms150.......its like a kids toy but a real one!lol l got it as Stihl Aust does not offer it in here for sale, just the top handle. CAD got the better of me so l snagged the last minty one that came up for sale in the post from a member. lt's had Brads mods but is not ported. lt performs well and is extremely light with 10" 3/8 043 bar. However l find the throttle trigger quite stiff and it cramps my hand when l use it for more than a tank. l don't regret buying it but would say the T/H is a nicer setup to run, you can use it all day in 1or2 hands and get no fatigue. After all stihl spends huge resources in its design to be perfectly balanced to the point it will sit dead flat with b/c held (suspended) by one finger. All that get's kinda wasted when a rear handle is fitted. The 150 in top handle setup is a saw l am yet to hear an 'owner' say a bad word about in fact those who use them absolutely love em! Quarter inch chain really helps them but 043 3/8 works well too. I don't like the tooney tip quarter inch pointy bars so l run the 10" light bar with wider nose in 3\8.043. Sounds like you will buy a 150 in some form.....just thought I'd throw in my opinion.
Thank you. I got a 200T or 2 and a MS 200. And I use the 200 all the time. About as small as I want to go now that you point it out.
And I have an Echo 280 with an 8" bar which I use a lot in tangles and steep Dam faces where things are never larger than 3-4 " diameter. Dam faces have to be cleared by law.
That 150T looks like it may be the ticket.
I already have the 10" lite bar. I've bought saws and guns with less reason.
Thanks. 150T it is!!!






with enough rationalizing left for a ms241 down the line.
 
Somebody straighten me out here. 7 pin vs 8 pin. 8 pin will produce more chainspeed , less engine rpm, and less torque and just the opposite with 7 pin sprocket?
 
l have a rear handle ms150.......its like a kids toy but a real one!lol l got it as Stihl Aust does not offer it in here for sale, just the top handle. CAD got the better of me so l snagged the last minty one that came up for sale in the post from a member. lt's had Brads mods but is not ported. lt performs well and is extremely light with 10" 3/8 043 bar. However l find the throttle trigger quite stiff and it cramps my hand when l use it for more than a tank. l don't regret buying it but would say the T/H is a nicer setup to run, you can use it all day in 1or2 hands and get no fatigue. After all stihl spends huge resources in its design to be perfectly balanced to the point it will sit dead flat with b/c held (suspended) by one finger. All that get's kinda wasted when a rear handle is fitted. The 150 in top handle setup is a saw l am yet to hear an 'owner' say a bad word about in fact those who use them absolutely love em! Quarter inch chain really helps them but 043 3/8 works well too. I don't like the tooney tip quarter inch pointy bars so l run the 10" light bar with wider nose in 3\8.043. Sounds like you will buy a 150 in some form.....just thought I'd throw in my opinion.
Thanks for that, I had a day recently removing acc longifolia where I used my 150t all day - stupid steep hill and sub 8" stems - and I'd been wondering if a 150 rear handle might join the collection.
I'd made some assumptions about that saw that might not be correct.
 
Naaaa........as much to worry about if potency (spl?) of aspirin was right.
OD and face done in the same setup. If the machine screwed up before the facing and they had to take it out they wouldn't take the time to try to reset it up. Just start a new piece.

I have to set up parts from golf ball size to SBC size and indicate them daily. With the occasional SmartCar sized piece.
Indicate to .001-.003. Brad is doing it right.
If not.......I'd give him Grief about it.

take a bit to set this job up. 6m bar in a 1.5m lathe. have to thread both ends with a 8mm pitch ACME thread.:crazy:

 
Somebody straighten me out here. 7 pin vs 8 pin. 8 pin will produce more chainspeed , less engine rpm, and less torque and just the opposite with 7 pin sprocket?
Engine RPM is independent. At the same engine RPM:
7 tooth sprocket = slower chain speed, but more cutting power.
8 tooth sprocket = faster chain speed, but less cutting power.

Chain speed is always a trade off with cutting power, all other things equal.

Philbert
 
I'm considering picking up a E Light bar for this saw. I was originally thinking 14" but this regular 16" feels pretty good, so not sure. What's you guys suggestion, 14" or 16"?
42"......... LOL!! just for fun, I bet the little pygmy would do it though. As the late great crocodile hunter would say......she's a littal rippa!!
 
Ive been too busy workin on customers equipment and my day job to cut and make a video with mine but ill say the new gutted strato and #s made a huge difference
 
Ive been too busy workin on customers equipment and my day job to cut and make a video with mine but ill say the new gutted strato and #s made a huge difference
That's great to hear. This has to be the strongest and fastest 42cc saw I've ever run. It'll be fun to take to a GTG and spank some 346s with ;)
 
That's great to hear. This has to be the strongest and fastest 42cc saw I've ever run. It'll be fun to take to a GTG and spank some 346s with ;)
Should I sell my 346 now before this cataclysm occurs? I dont want to be left behind. I really do like that little 241 even in stock form with the right chain it is definitely my favorite.
 
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