Selling my old MS250 and thinking of getting an MS261. Can I get some advice?

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Lastly my concern is serviceability. Despite the one issue I've been battling on this 250, I knew the saw in and out. Like the easy carb adjustment screws on the side and ability to change my own spark plug, filter, sprockets, clutch, etc... is the 261 as serviceable? I don't think the carb adjustments are on the outside of the saw - is that an issue for a guy like me?
Both the MS261 and MS261CM are available. The 261 has a carb which adjusts just like the carb on your 250. The 261CM has an electronically-adjusted carb (so-called Mtronic carb)...no adjustments needed or possible.

Both systems are well proven and are dependable. Your choice.

As others mentioned, sell the 250 with the bars/chains and buy the new saw with a 18" bar.

You'll love it.

Roy
 
Yeah but you don't have to bend you can just fracture a disk or tear a ligament ask me how I know.
I have never considered a chainsaw of any size or weight as something that would hurt me, it`s the stuff I lift every day that weighs 10 times what a saw does that will eventually get me.
 
I have never considered a chainsaw of any size or weight as something that would hurt me, it`s the stuff I lift every day that weighs 10 times what a saw does that will eventually get me.
Lifting out of balance is when it really gets you.
 
Thanks guys for your input!

I think I'm sold on the 261 as of now. I'm in Montgomery County PA so too far from you guys but I appreciate the offer!

A little more power would be great but I do really want the extra length more. It seems all my logs are 19" or 20", no lie, so I always have to go around to the other side to get a full cut with an 18" bar.

When you say anemic, what do you mean exactly? Really that bad? I'm assuming that a 261 with a 20" bar will still feel more powerful than a 250 with an 18" bar, no?
You might be able to talk yourself into getting a MS362. Solve your anemic and longer bar length concerns. Get a 24 inch bar as a second bar. Or just get the longer bar and get a 261 with the 18 bar. Your two saw solution. :)
 
I run a 20" bar on most of my saws, 260& 261 included. I have 16" but rarely use them on anything larger than 40 cc. I usually grab a smaller saw like my 241 or little J-Red when I need something more nimble.
The 20" works well for me, and does save some bending, keep the chain sharp and well oiled, you'll be fine.
 
I have a few 261’s, recently I have used a 271 that I picked up, for an occasional user, imo, not much difference for a lot less money. No decomp, and it can be a little tough to pull over when cold. 291, might also be a good choice also if one is strong.
 
I cannot tell you what to buy, but do not buy a MS250. (and I'm a Stihl guy)
I've got a MS250 that is like new (looks new also) and I do not care for it. Hard to rope crank and sounds tinny when running. I had to replace the plastic crankshaft cage bearings at low hours on this saw. I would not even sell it to someone I know unless maybe a Bro in Law.
For firewood I run old and new 028's plus others. Some have 20 inch bars but I prefer a 18inch bar for firewood. I have lighter weight saws I use for trimming small limb overhead after the tree is down. I try to cut smaller trees for firewood processing is why I don't really need a 20 inch bar and I hand file my own chains.
 
I owned an 025 at one point. I like my 024 and 026 better. Having said that, the MS261 is noticeably better than my 026 and is an absolutely ideal firewood saw for the size and quantity of wood that you're describing. Even if you decide to expand into bigger saws in the future, the MS261 is ideal for a small saw in a 2 or 3 (or 12) saw plan. I'd run an 18" bar on it. If you're cutting more than 16", you'll end up rolling the log over at some point to finish your cuts anyway. Realistically, if you have a legit need for a bar longer than 18" (even if its just because you don't want to bend over as much), then you have a legit need for a 70cc saw.

As far as parts compatibility, about the only thing that you can use from an 025/251 is the starter pawl, the associated clip, and the pull rope. The good news, however, is that there are some parts from a 261 that are compatible with just about everything bigger that sthil makes. :)
 
If I was looking for a forever replacement saw for your MS250, I'd be looking for a solid older 026.
Sure the AV and filtration on the 026 isn't as good as the newer MS261, but it is easier to service and parts are available everywhere.
The 026 carburetors are adjustable and can be rebuilt; the M-tronic carburetors, not so much. Even the Stihl shops with service centers w/solid repair facilities will tell you that replacing it is a better option than rebuilding it.
In fairness, I have a bunch of 026 saws, a couple 260's, and just a single 261. I like the 261. However, if something with it went sideways, I have a dozen other saws that I could grab to use while it's being repaired.
It's a carb, regular old carb with a fuel solenoid and a few sensors. Never heard of the sensors going bad and the solenoid is pretty cheap, and readily available. The carbs are also 100% rebuildable. The rest of the saw is just like it's non-mtronic version.
While I like my 026, it's no replacement for the better features thay come with the 261 and the extra power the 261 has over a 026.
I'll never understand why everyone fears the mtronic/autotune system. It's so simple it sucks.
 
You might be able to talk yourself into getting a MS362. Solve your anemic and longer bar length concerns. Get a 24 inch bar as a second bar. Or just get the longer bar and get a 261 with the 18 bar. Your two saw solution. :)
While I agree, I'd skip the 362 save up the extra $200 clams and grab a 400. It's everything the 362 should have been but wasn't.
 
if you are going to get a 261 or 362 do yourself a favor and get the M Tronic version
261C 20 in bar list $699
362C 20 in bar list $899
Hands down I would go with the 362C
some will tell you to get the 400C the parts are higher for the 400c than the 362c by far
And a lot of them are not available right now
 
As others mentioned, sell the 250 with the bars/chains and buy the new saw with a 18" bar.

You'll love it.

Absolutely agree this is a good choice based on what the OP has said.

I'd get the Light 04 bar (narrow kerf, .325/.050) with the 23RS Pro narrow kerf chain. That's a dream setup for limbing, firewood, and small felling in hardwood.

Edit:
Bar part# 3003-008-3317
Chain part# 3690-005-0074
 
Absolutely agree this is a good choice based on what the OP has said.

What do you mean by paying attention to what the OP said/needs????

By about Post #10 of any of these threads, guys always get around to suggesting an extra 10 or 20 cc's.

No one wants to suggest a MS500?

Yet.

Roy
 
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