Great descriptions great thread.
I can be descriptive. May entail some dissecting first.
I have been cutting since I was young and I continue to learn all the time
Good attitude. It's wise to question. 'Time in' alone, doesn't stand for much.
A life of ****ing makes most none a pôrn star.
I always thought it kept the likelihood of a tree jumping back off the stump a little lower.
True! Or to help prevent it from going back over the stump more specifically. A "step" or in more technical terms: Anti-kickback step is still taught.
It's more of a backup up for a back up for a back up, If the tree comes over the stump and strikes the Rookie. He has done at least two things wrong not including the step. Perhaps 5 or 6 things wrong.
Rookie #2 is saved by a conscious step and may not even have known it but still done everything else wrong.
Bottom line: A step can save a really really horrible faller or someone that can't adhere to or there lacking proper procedure and order.
Q) Can a step save a really good faller?
Never
say never.
They still call from a 1/2 to 1" step on Humboldt & Swanson up to 33" Diameter here. Traditional 2" seems standard on Conventional and Birds mouth cuts.
In addition: 2" on Humboldt with upslope with Swanson or west coast Swanson "westcoaster"
(Try avoid uphill falling)
2" Humboldt on small diameter 'against the lean'.
Q) What makes the tree travel back
from its forward motion? Force and/or gravity
1) If the top hits first on the hillside; the spring from the top will send it back.
Gravity may be all it takes especially with snags without branches.
2) falling into objects.
I try to hit the 1/2" to 1" height on Humboldts. 1 1/2" on bar size (36") is proportionate if it's level. No step is acceptable but if they were all like that then your Bull bucker will say something and document it.
Problem with starting level on one side is if your undercut is slightly of or you dip on the back cut then you will undercut your undercut on the farside...and that is not acceptable.
If 'you' are falling a tree and are still caughting your own mistakes then it's a good indication 'you' should be using it and revisiting everything.
Pay closer attention to planning, reading your site, tree assessments, opening up or closed canopy falling. Falling into standing timber... brush out and make room. Fall out your snags, safety trails ( safe side) 2 trail if needed.Working from safe side. Looking up lots, getting away 10 ft minimal from stump or use cover tree. Don't miss your pivot points, cut logs that you are falling on that may extend behind or above the tree... may hit/ throw you or dislodge rock or uproot snags/trees way up the hill. Extra Cut up tree and getting distracted, being in a rush/aim
That's most all about "Going about falling the tree" which is the bigger part.
They^^will all get you as I know first hand. I have been both the guy lacking knowledge as well that horrible faller lacking discipline.
If you miss one thing or do 'one thing'..you are removing your safety net. If you have a near miss or end up wearing wood it's often involves 2 or more mistakes.
As far as Europe goes.....
It's really going to come down to the faller and how he controls his environment.
I haven't ever seen many falling training videos other than some that have been posted on site. I assume most of the emphasis is focused on falling cuts. Learning falling cuts with out the rest probably makes you more dangerous.
