Stihl 018 Oiler problem

[rd35]

Okay so I have this little 018 on my bench. Won't oil correctly. With bar off, I fired it up and reved it for a bit. Oil comes out of the oil port, but very slow and with lots of bubbles. So, I pulled it apart. Oil hose seems fine and the saw does not leak. Blew out the filter and hose with air gun. All clean. Tank clean. Pulled oil pump. Seems tight (not sloppy loose) and very clean. Dipped inlet side in oil and spun the pump by hand...oil comes out of outlet as it should. Blew out the oil port (from pump to bar) with compressed air...all clean. Put it back together, filled oil tank, fired it up. Pumped oil just a little bit better. Put bar and chain on and fired it up again....nothing. Pulled bar and chain, fired it up...nothing...no oil coming out of port at all.

So, based on this info, what would you folks think is the problem? Oh and to go along with this....is the oil hose pickup supposed to protrude up into the forward portion of the oil tank? Or is it supposed to stay down in the lower (rearward) section (where I currently have it positioned)?

 

[HarleyT]

 

[rd35]

Hmmmm!!.........How much ya wanna bet I have a kink in my hose!
Thanks HarleyT!! Now I just need to figger out how to fish the end screen through the tank!

 

[HarleyT]

It is too short, pull out the line from the other end.

 

[SEAM]

Worm gear peg seated properly in drum notch?
Incidentally, I got one here that probably was run for a while with a bad needle bearing and with the drum edge rubbing against the case... now it leaks from the (partially exposed) oil duct through the case and no oil arrives at the pump.

 

[rd35]

Worm gear peg seated properly in drum notch?
Incidentally, I got one here that probably was run for a while with a bad needle bearing and with the drum edge rubbing against the case... now it leaks from the (partially exposed) oil duct through the case and no oil arrives at the pump.

Yep, checked the plastic worm. It is in good shape and properly engaged in the notch. I'll check my case to make sure, but this thing doesn't appear to be leaking anywhere....just not pumping oil. Needle bearing is good.

It is too short, pull out the line from the other end.

View attachment 607526

Hey HarleyT I am not tracking very well here. I am trying to insert the pick-up end of the hose through the tank opening on the bottom of the saw, but am having a little trouble getting it to go toward the large end of the tank. Are you saying I need to fish it in through the filler neck opening and pull it out at the bottom?

 

[HarleyT]

With the tank in my hand, I can rotate the fuel line while inserting it in the hole and get it to go forward. I wasn't sure how or what you were trying in your earlier post.

 

[SteveSr]

Air bubbles in the oil flow usually means that the pump is sucking air from somewhere. Check the oil hose REALLY closely!

These saws will also tend to leak oil due to fit of the hose in the tank. Best solution is to clean everything up pristine and then use some sort of RTV sealant to glue the hose tank. It also wouldn't hurt to do the same for the end that goes into the bottom of the oil pump. This way you are guaranteeing no air or oil leaks.

 

[Khntr85]

I had a ms250 oiler that about made me pull hair out .... turns out the damn that wasn’t seated at the correct depth.....

I know it sounds crazy, but I took it out, re-aligned it and she worked....

You may have a hole somewhere in the line since that is an older saw...

 

[rd35]

With the tank in my hand, I can rotate the fuel line while inserting it in the hole and get it to go forward. I wasn't sure how or what you were trying in your earlier post.

Hey I was trying to insert the hose from the bottom of the assembled saw case. Just realized this morning that all I need to do is pull the recoil and the tank comes right out. I knew this at one time....but working on so many different saws.....and me being in a hurry all the time I just didn't think about it. I will get it put back together this evening. We are having a big wood cutting party at my parent's house tomorrow. So, I gotta get this thing up and running tonight. I'm gonna race my brother with it. He thinks he can outrun my 018 with his MMWS modded 385XP Husky. Poor guy...has no idea what he's up against!!!!

 

[rd35]

Air bubbles in the oil flow usually means that the pump is sucking air from somewhere. Check the oil hose REALLY closely!
These saws will also tend to leak oil due to fit of the hose in the tank. Best solution is to clean everything up pristine and then use some sort of RTV sealant to glue the hose tank. It also wouldn't hurt to do the same for the end that goes into the bottom of the oil pump. This way you are guaranteeing no air or oil leaks.

The saw was not leaking oil anywhere. Dry as a bone even with a filled oil tank. But....I pulled the hose back out last night and, sure enough, I had kinked it when I installed it. So, I will pull the tank this evening and install it correctly. Also, I bought a new hose (OEM) so I am going to install it as well. Should solve the problem completely!

I had a ms250 oiler that about made me pull hair out .... turns out the damn that wasn’t seated at the correct depth.....

I know it sounds crazy, but I took it out, re-aligned it and she worked....

You may have a hole somewhere in the line since that is an older saw...

Yes I can see how that could be a problem! I aligned my pump again just for that same reason! This new hose should be the last piece of the puzzle that gets'er oiling again. So, after I get it installed I'll be ready to blow the doors off that 385!!!

 

[HarleyT]

Well you need to remove the flywheel too, which is why I didn't mention it.

 

[rd35]

Oh.....okay, should not be a problem. So....Loosen nut, whack, remove nut, remove flywheel....then remove the tank. Does that sound right?

 

[rd35]

Oh and yes I will "loosen nut" with air!!

 

[HarleyT]

Yeah, with some folks here, removal of the flywheel and clutch can be problematic.

 

[rd35]

I understand, was a problem for me too. Got better when I got myself a piston stop tool. But once I discovered the power of the impact wrench, life got much better!!! Thanks for the helpful hints! Should have me a nice limbing saw here shortly!!!

 

[HarleyT]

No piston stop!! Leave the spark plug in!!

 

[SteveSr]

Harley, or someone else can correct me if I'm wrong... If I recall the clamshell is held together separately from the bolts holding the engine into the main housing. You might be able to loosen the engine enough to remove the tank without removing the flywheel.

 

[rd35]

Update: Pulled it apart and discovered the hose was, indeed, kinked! Didn’t need to pull the tank!! Tied a small string to the strainer and fished it into the correct position. Fired it up! Pumps oil like brand new!

Oh and yes, as HarleyT stated, avoid using a piston stop on these 017, 018, ms170, and ms180 family of engines as they tend to occasionally suffer damage to the connecting rod when you try to remove the clutch by hand wrench!!!

 

[rd35]

Harley, or someone else can correct me if I'm wrong... If I recall the clamshell is held together separately from the bolts holding the engine into the main housing. You might be able to loosen the engine enough to remove the tank without removing the flywheel.

Hmmm....never thought about that..might work!