Stihl 028 questions

[shikkapow]

I recently acquired a Stihl 028av Super that I want to get back into proper working order. I dont have any gas so I honestly dont even know if it runs. I checked the spark and its nice and bright and their seems to be plenty of compression by using the "its hard to pull the cord" , and its "easy to pull with the plug out" technique.

My first question is that when you grab the top handle, and move the bar up and down the engine casing floats around as if on a pivot. Is it broken?

I dont even know enough to be able to name the parts I am asking about, but the top handle that loops around to the two bottom screws onto the plastic body if you are holding it in both hands and put downward pressure on the chain bar as if you are cutting, it flexes about 2 inches.

Second, Are these saws worth dumping any money into? I hear 028's are reliable for occasional use (Im really looking for a post hurricane every now and then type of saw that is RELIABLE) ?

I'll try and get some pictures up if I'm not making any sense about the handle flexing.

Thanks!

 

[jockeydeuce]

It sounds like some of your rubber AV mounts are broken if the crankcase is flopping around relative to the tank/rear handle....(not a tough fix).

A good 028 will last the average person a lifetime if maintained properly.......They are well worth spending a little money on in my opinion. I would pull the muffler off the saw and have a good look at the piston before moving forward with fixing anything else.

 

[kyle.kipple]

My dad gave me his super few months back doing the same. I've spent a total of maybe 120 dollars if that to get her running good. I replaces all av mounts( annual buffers) tank vent coil wires plug new meteor piston and rings.and yesterday I tuned her and sunk into a fat piece of locust and it was like butter with a hot knife. By far going to be my favorite saw for a long time. So sink the money into it in my opinion check it over real good and fixer!

 

[shikkapow]

How do I replace the buffer?

i pulled the muffler, and the piston looks great. no scoring and I can still see horizontal machining.

Im just cleaning all the old gunky sawdust in the meanwhile

 

[DG2244]

There are plastic covers over the screws holding the buffers in place. Just pry them off to get to the screws.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

How do I replace the buffer?

i pulled the muffler, and the piston looks great. no scoring and I can still see horizontal machining.

Im just cleaning all the old gunky sawdust in the meanwhile

Keep cleaning. Very cool that the piston is that clean. You're on your way!

There are three annular buffers on that saw designed to isolate the handle from the engine as an anti-vibration system.

Do yourself a huge favor and head over to the "beg for manuals" thread under the Stickies heading and ask for an IPL and Shop Manual for your saw.. You'll probably receive a response in fairly short order and have what you need to get a better understanding of what's on your plate.

Great little saw. You'll be quite gratified when you get it up and running.

Good luck with it and welcome aboard.

Poge

 

[shikkapow]

There are plastic covers over the screws holding the buffers in place. Just pry them off to get to the screws.

its funny, it took me about 20 minutes to figure out that you back the top screw out and use it as a point to pull the plastic thing out. and I saw the screws inside.



once the cover is out, the screws inside the buffer just back out and the whole thing comes apart (assuming you take all three buffers out)?

thanks!

 

[roostersgt]

Yup, but be careful you don't tear the intake or impulse line when removing the tank handle. Push the intake through with your finger.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

once the cover is out, the screws inside the buffer just back out and the whole thing comes apart (assuming you take all three buffers out)?
thanks!

There's actually a fourth buffer/attachment point at the upper part of the handle just in front and to the left of the airbox. Pretty easy to spot.

Keep us posted on your progress. (And we like pictures.)

Poge

 

[shikkapow]

I'll get pics up soon.

Ran to the local store and they dont stock parts and every single small business isn this town shutters up at noon on Saturday. I dont know how any of them stay in business.

Anyways, I put some fuel in it and sprayed some carb cleaner in the throat of the carb and it will run for a few seconds and die. WOT and it dies immediately.

in an attempt to make sure the electrical stop is working properly, I measured the yellow/green wire that is grounded on the case to the little metal tab on the choke switch, and its almost always 1 ohm.

shouldnt it be 1 ohm when the kill switch is engaged, and open when running?

Im still hunting for a parts manual/shop manual, so I am flying blind.

 

[shikkapow]

I got the shop and parts manual, and rented a compression tester from the local auto store. It sitting right around 125 PSI with ten hard pulls on the cord and the throttle wide open. I poured a little 2 cycle oil down the spark plug hole and got it to 125 (it was 90 before I did that).
I know that's a little low, but it should still run @ 125 shouldn't it?

The short fuel tank vent popped off when I was messing around with the compression tester hose and the part that connects to the tank is cracked.

are there supposed to be two small screws in the hose?

one in the middle, you can see in the picture, and one near the top that looked like it had a flat head slot in it)on the right in this picture)

in this picture, is the ribbed hose below the carb the impulse hose?

Ive seen lots of troubleshooting on this forum and that seems to be a common problem.

I also checked the ground for what I think is the electronic shutoff. between the green/yellow wire where it clips onto the choke spring and the right hand side of the black wire on this photo, is almost always 1 ohm.
only when you rotate the flywheel does it change. and its a momentary fluctuation as it cycles through. what should that be?

When I had the compression tester hooked up the spark was jumping about 2 inches over to the brass fittings, so I still think the ignition is good

 

[K5krawler]

I'd check fuel line and impulse line for cracks, probably needs a carb rebuild since it will run when you fuel it down the carb throat.

 

[shikkapow]

is the electrical stop right? I dont want to chase a ghost because the stop isn't correct.

the next step is a carb rebuild/hose replacement. I have to replace the buffers anyways and if I tear it down to replace them I want to do it all at once and get the hoses knocked out when the buffers are out.

but if its just electrical, I wont need all the extra work to tear it down.

as a side note how long does it take to get fuel to the carb on a completely dry tank?

 

[K5krawler]

mine minus ground

 

[shikkapow]

So the clip is underneath the lever?
Mine is riding on the top and never really breaks electrical contact with the brass lead on the black wire. by the way yours looks, it is never in contact with the spring except when the switch is in the "up" position for stop.


yours also looks to be under alot more tension the way it is positioned than mine (higher angle on the spring).

when you say yours minus the ground, is yours disconnected?

Looking at yours I think I am going to disconnect the ground wire and fill it up with fuel and see what happens. I have been suspicions of the ground lead since I opened the cover because the way it is wired makes no sense, but never seeing what it was built like, I wasn't sure.

 

[wkmincey]

Move your cutoff spring to the other side of the cutoff wire like in K5krawler's picture. It's hard to tell in the picture but yours may be making contact all the time where it is at.

 

[shikkapow]

Gah. not it. it still runs strong for a second or two and then dies.

I was hoping for something simple.

how do you get to the back of the carb to look at the hoses? take the handle out by removing the buffers and unscrewing it?

 

[wkmincey]

Rebuild the carb and see if that works. If it has sat for a long time the carb can get gummed up or clogged up and it surely won't hurt it. The other thing it might be is the low compression isn't strong enough to operate the fuel pump (just guessing here) and/or the fuel pump diaphram is shot. Since the "fuel pump" is in the carb the rebuild would/could help with this. I think it should run fine with 125lbs compression but I am no expert mind you.

Also fixed the picture issue with my earlier post regarding my 028 rebuild with a new post.

 

[shikkapow]

I pulled the boots and wiggled everything around enough to take a look at the back of the carb. the intake boot looks fine, and unfortunately it slipped off the jug.

Since im already looking at a tear down/rebuild of the hoses and carb, how do you disconnect the hose that runs from the crank case into the carb? is that the impulse line?

the saw is so dirty I can't tell if its cracked or not, but it stretches nicely and rebounds, so most likely it is good, but I dont know.

I did a quick google search for the impulse line and it looks like it is too short to be the one I am talking about.
.

 

[roostersgt]

It's held on with a hose clamp. Is the boot torn at the jug? Shouldn't have slipped off under any circumstances. The boot is "grooved" for the clamp.