I bought an Stihl 028 at an estate sale yesterday. Brought it home and drained out the old gas, which did not smell that bad, and put in some ethanol free, a quick squirt of ether and it fired right up. Idled OK but not great and I screwed the L screw in all the way without any effect. So i assume a carb cleaning and rebuild is in order. Some questions: Was there more than one carb on these over time? If so, will the serial # tell me which carb i have or do i need to remove it to identify it? I've been happy with the parts I've gotten from HLS but they only list aftermarket carb kits. Are these reliable or should I try to find an authentic kit? Is there another vendor that anyone recommends? Should I replace the fuel and impulse lines while I am at it, and same question about aftermarket parts. Thanks Larry
Stihl 028 estate sale find
- Thread starter larrypac
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Try e-bay to pay no more than $11 for a new carb that will likely work fine. Nothing is guaranteed these days and I doubt you will have trouble with a brand new part. For $15 you can get the fuel line, fuel filter, etc. My 028 Super is a great saw. Good luck!
Timber MacFallen
ArboristSite Operative
There are different 028 models (Super, Wood Boss, Standard, etc) that spanned nearly 3 decades. Refer to a serial number to provide you with the correct parts. A lot were built in the 80's and 90's.
It's great news it fired up for you, but the right thing to do would be to properly rebuild and clean the carb, replace the fuel line and filter, and check everything on the saw thoroughly. I tend to loathe aftermarket parts and always look for OE or Genuine when possible. Aftermarket just isn't made as well. Are there some exceptions out there somewhere? Probably. However, the facts that this old saw ran given its age is a testament to the quality of parts in the saw from the start.
Genuine carb kits, fuel hose, fuel filter, and pulse hose can be found on eBay. Don’t get aftermarket. That saw could have either a Walbro or Tillotson carb so you’ll have to figure out what you’ve got.
Please don't just slap a carb on it. Vacuum and pressure test a must on an old saw. Fuel and pulse hoses must be inspected for cracks. Also intake manifold. New plug and fuel filter. Don't forget the fuel tank vent.
If the bottom endand fuel system check out, then get the carburetor.
Then PLEASE NO More ETHER!!!!
If the bottom endand fuel system check out, then get the carburetor.
Then PLEASE NO More ETHER!!!!
I'd love to do the vac and pressure test but don't have the tools and spending $50+ on them kind of defeats my goal of having a good running saw for little money. I'm handy enough to clean a carb and reinstall it and if it doesn't work, I can still easily recoup my $ selling it whole or stripping it for parts
Plus 10 on that
I have seen 028's idle with needle all the way in , It is a curiosity, They certainly will not be usable that way.The low mixture jet and the idle speed control have to be worked off of each other so that the low is plenty rich enough to make the transition when you suddenly open the main butterfly. But, will idle well too.
If the thing will idle all the way in that is no indication of an air leak.
If the impulse or manifold is seeping you can usually see a damp spot with a strong flashlight.
If you could post a photo we could likely tell you a good idea of use and how it's been taken care of.
If the thing will idle all the way in that is no indication of an air leak.
If the impulse or manifold is seeping you can usually see a damp spot with a strong flashlight.
If you could post a photo we could likely tell you a good idea of use and how it's been taken care of.
farmhard
ArboristSite Operative
If you have access to a press those cases come apart pretty easy. I'd split it, check the bearings and install new seals myself -before something goes bang and destroys the cylinder, at the same time clean out the oil tank, oiler etc. and just be done with it.
On the rubber parts, I have had MANY offshore rubber parts crack and split so beware of how hard the part is to change and be mindful of what you are installing.
I have had no luck with A/M carbs. 1 out of 3 won't work at all.
On the rubber parts, I have had MANY offshore rubber parts crack and split so beware of how hard the part is to change and be mindful of what you are installing.
I have had no luck with A/M carbs. 1 out of 3 won't work at all.
The 028's even the old ones are ONE of my favorite Stihls.
I own and run several different models of the 028's plus other saw makes.
I've got an OLD points type 028 that is probably 40 years old and reliable. Had to install a rubber mount and that's about it. If my old model 028 idle starts changing I can clean the air filter and it's back to normal.
I've never had to put seals into any of my 028's.
Like the guy said about the idle jet is not a indicator of a air leak.
You might think about removing the carb, get the info off the carb and then soak the carb in mineral spirts for awhile then install a kit. Make sure when adjusting the H jet you leave it on the rich side of the adjustment (which is CCW slightly from the smooth sound).
Adjust for the 4 cycle sound out of the cut.
The carb H jet on the adjustable models can be adjusted for a smooth sound at High rpms in and out of the cut but they will be too lean and overheat and ruin the engine and it can happen fast..
You can find Service guide info on-line for replacing/repairs different parts of the 028.
Sometimes just getting fresh gas/oil mix into a old dried out carb will make them come around. When you prime a saw into the carb throat use a mixed gas, not ether or straight gas.
AND for now forget about doing a pressure/vac test. Just do the basics for now and I bet she will come alive.
I own and run several different models of the 028's plus other saw makes.
I've got an OLD points type 028 that is probably 40 years old and reliable. Had to install a rubber mount and that's about it. If my old model 028 idle starts changing I can clean the air filter and it's back to normal.
I've never had to put seals into any of my 028's.
Like the guy said about the idle jet is not a indicator of a air leak.
You might think about removing the carb, get the info off the carb and then soak the carb in mineral spirts for awhile then install a kit. Make sure when adjusting the H jet you leave it on the rich side of the adjustment (which is CCW slightly from the smooth sound).
Adjust for the 4 cycle sound out of the cut.
The carb H jet on the adjustable models can be adjusted for a smooth sound at High rpms in and out of the cut but they will be too lean and overheat and ruin the engine and it can happen fast..
You can find Service guide info on-line for replacing/repairs different parts of the 028.
Sometimes just getting fresh gas/oil mix into a old dried out carb will make them come around. When you prime a saw into the carb throat use a mixed gas, not ether or straight gas.
AND for now forget about doing a pressure/vac test. Just do the basics for now and I bet she will come alive.
farmhard
ArboristSite Operative
For my 2 cents, The OP said he turned the Idle jet in all the way and it made no difference. That's indicating something wrong and a monkey overcompensated somewhere else.
Also if you run 40 year old seals they get hard and score crankshafts. If we don't know the history, hours etc. on the saw we can go around in circles. Likely a carb kit will do it till the next issue pops up.
i don't like come backs.
A standard coil like from like an 029 will replace your 028 points coil if it pukes. Just cut the wires coming from under the flywheel. Shame it doesn't work that way on much anything else.
Good info. Thanks.
Hard to believe that the OEM points have lasted 40 years and even the other stuff. It's used up lots of chains. (and I bought the saw used) I've always used Srihl products in the old 028 saw, I'm the only operator of the saw, mix my own fuels and only loan out Poulans/Craftsman type saws and do not care if they find their way back home, but they always seem to find their way back home
I know when it quits it's a dinosaur and has paid it's dues and will probably have to be re-tired because most everything on the saw will crumble when bothered/touched and as long as something is working good and doing it's job I leave well enough alone it only gets little TLC care from me. My other later model 028's are good runners and easy to start.
I've got a low hours Stihl MS250 that I'm not very proud of, hard to crank and sounds tinney when it''s running. Have to get mean and strong with the pull cord when cranking.
If the guy said he has a MS025, well enough said.
My point being to the OP is if his 028 saw has not been previously mistreated the 028's are worth some effort..
I would probably pull the muffler and take a peek at the piston to check for any scoring. I've seen saws with good compression have scored pistons and this gives me a heads up about where I'm headed with the saw. A scored piston is also a hint that the saw may have been run or is running lean when it's operating.
Far as I'm concerned my 45 year old 028 that I bought new decades ago and have taken good care of runs excellent, starts 2nd pull and last time I cleaned the spark arrestor screen, I took a peek at the piston and bore and it was still pristine. Has to be my favorite saw bar none. Sure does like canned Red Armor fuel as well.
The 028 Wood Boss that I probably never should have sold about 7 years ago:
The new owner uses it today and loves his saw. He asked me to make four new chain loops for it and I did. He still uses the 18" bar. Truly a classic saw.
The new owner uses it today and loves his saw. He asked me to make four new chain loops for it and I did. He still uses the 18" bar. Truly a classic saw.
Only difference between that one and mine is, I have the heated grip on mine so the 'on-off' switch is on the right hand side. I run a 20" bar on mine with full tooth chipper on a Stihl bar, on it's second bar and only second spark plug. No chain brake either...lol I've hardly ever used the grip heater as I rarely use it in cold weather. At 73, I'm sure it will outlast me. Pulls the 20 just fine btw. In fact, all my smaller saws run 20" bars.
I do need the back cover (air cleaner cover) for mine as it has a small crack where it fits over the handle but I see there are ones for sale (aftermarket) but no guarantee on color. Any suggestions as to where I might get one that is color correct?
I see several on fleece bay
I see some on fleece bay.
The 028`s are the iron dukes of the Stihl lineup, they were likely the most prolific Stihl saws among the wood burners in my area and I have likely maintained more than 50 of them from all years of manufacture, I know for some reason there are big boxes of used spare parts in my storage area, as many or more than 044 and MS 440 parts, from the saws that met untimely death under a truck or tractor wheel, or when an excavator played a role in crushing a 440. The 028`s in general only required fuel related bits or a sparkplug with a few carb tunings over the years, just one recently needed a module on a 028 Super, it had worked very well for over 30 years.
Thank you. In my foggy 72 year old mind, I didn't consider that. Lots if parts on there, some new and not used as well.
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