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Stihl 041 Starting Issue

ozziechainsaw

ozziechainsaw

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Hi guys,

Looking for some help. I got given a very nice Stihl 041 a couple of days ago with the ( it was working when I used it last ) comment when I picked it up. Before I tried to start it, i checked for spark which was good and made sure there was no blockages in the exhaust system. After about 4-5 pulls the recoil went loose like I had broken the recoil spring. So I pulled it apart thinking that's what had happened only to find the flywheel loose. So instead of removing the flywheel I just torqued it up, re assemabled the saw and started again to try and start it. NOTHING. Checked and again with spark testers and several spark plugs it still wouldn't start. It has perfect spark but won't fire.

I removed the side cover and then the flywheel to find the woodruff key broken. I removed the broken key and fitting a new woodruff key and fitted the flywheel back into position. Checked for spark again and again I have bright blue spark. I then started trying to start the saw and again nothing not even a cough. I have tried 2 stroke fuel down the carby and even some " start ya barstard" and I cannot get it to even look like starting. Compression feels excellent, and the saw is a 1 owner saw in very good condition.

I am looking for idea's, I am not sure what else to try.


Cheers

Justin
 
Bob Hedgecutter

Bob Hedgecutter

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Being an Aussie, I am sure Tommy Tippie will be along soon to share his vast 6 saw experience.
But in the meanwhile- as Harley says- photos of flywheel, coil, ignition parts and their part numbers would be grand.
Spark can be huge- but if it is not at the correct timing- saw no starty uppy .
 
ozziechainsaw

ozziechainsaw

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I did try this afternoon to check the actual point gap to make sure they were correct, however my feeler gauges are way too big to fit in the gap (had these when I used to drag race so not really suited for 2 stroke engines) .

I also have a genuine Stihl igition timing device (box) that I was given some months ago from a old Stihl tech that I will fit during the week and see how the timing is.

But still looking for ideas.

Cheers
Justin
 

rd35

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Several years ago a guy brought me an 041 that would not fire. Had what appeared to be good spark. After getting some feedback from this site I bought and installed a new condenser. Spark immediately was brighter and stronger than before. Installed the plug, pulled the rope. Saw fired up almost immediately. Ran great.
 
ozziechainsaw

ozziechainsaw

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Pull the plug, and pull the rope. See if it is flooded with maybe old gas.
Hey Harley,

I have fresh fuel in it 40:1 mix and changed the plug but Stihl no fire. The plug seems wet when I remove it, but i clean it , dry it and try it all over again and still nothing. I cannot even get it to cough or splutter which seems very strange. I now have brand new feeler gauges so i will check the points gap as well when I get 10 minutes.

I might get a couple of brand new plugs as well, just to make sure it is all working correctly.

This is another question I want to check, I also tried the Genuine Stihl inline part tester on this as well. If I hook it up push the spark plug into one end and the other end onto the spark plug lead the spark plug fires, but the clear diode in between doesn't show spark. I'm assuming that is because it could be broken, but if it was , then wouldn't it not make contact and therefore the plug shouldn't spark ?

Justin
 
HarleyT

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I think that you should go from the angle that it may be badly flooded, and dump out all of the gas into a jar. Remove the plug and dry it out. Then re-install the plug and pull like crazy, trying to start it while holding the throttle wide open, and see if you can get it to finally hit, then it will run until it burns off the excess fuel then die.
Then go from there.
 
HarleyT

HarleyT

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Re-reading the posts, you need to adjust the points with the flywheel on and through the access windows on the flywheel. Set them @ .016 .
 
Gaudaost

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A few things that come to mind:

Have you got an inline tester? A spark occurs much easier at atmospheric pressure, inside the cylinder the spark has a far harder time jumping the gap.

Secondly, have you checked the ignition timing? Gapping the points gives you the break in the circuit, but unless it’s timed correctly it’s not going to fire. Worn points, even if set to the right gap will still give you the wrong timing. An example of this today I closed the points gap on an 045 by 0.002” which retarded the timing by 7 degrees...

While you’re inside, check the capacitor too, it should be around 0.19 microfarads, careful not to get zapped though, they pack quite a punch still :laughing: If in doubt ground the centre electrode to the stator plate or to the body of the cap!
 
Yukon Stihl

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A few things that come to mind:

Have you got an inline tester? A spark occurs much easier at atmospheric pressure, inside the cylinder the spark has a far harder time jumping the gap.

Secondly, have you checked the ignition timing? Gapping the points gives you the break in the circuit, but unless it’s timed correctly it’s not going to fire. Worn points, even if set to the right gap will still give you the wrong timing. An example of this today I closed the points gap on an 045 by 0.002” which retarded the timing by 7 degrees...

While you’re inside, check the capacitor too, it should be around 0.19 microfarads, careful not to get zapped though, they pack quite a punch still :laughing: If in doubt ground the centre electrode to the stator plate or to the body of the cap!
We used to charge up a capacitor on a coil wire.
Then put it on the staff coffee table. Eventually someone would pick it up and start playing with it.
 
ozziechainsaw

ozziechainsaw

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Well guys it runs, and I have no idea what I did. :dizzy:

I got my Stihl ignition tester out and checked the timing. It was perfect and I mean text book perfect to what the workshop manual says. Points were on the low side .012 so increased it to .014, also gave them a quick sand and clean.
I checked all the wiring, put the original spark plug back in that came with the saw because i had tried several. Again I made sure it had spark before trying to start it which it did.

So I tried again to start it, and no BS it started first bloody pull. I would say for it to run perfectly it will need a carby kit but it runs and kinda idles ok too. I honestly don't think anything I did made it start, but something did..:happybanana:
 
gumneck

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Well guys it runs, and I have no idea what I did. :dizzy:

I got my Stihl ignition tester out and checked the timing. It was perfect and I mean text book perfect to what the workshop manual says. Points were on the low side .012 so increased it to .014, also gave them a quick sand and clean.
I checked all the wiring, put the original spark plug back in that came with the saw because i had tried several. Again I made sure it had spark before trying to start it which it did.

So I tried again to start it, and no BS it started first bloody pull. I would say for it to run perfectly it will need a carby kit but it runs and kinda idles ok too. I honestly don't think anything I did made it start, but something did..:happybanana:
YOU said you cleaned the points. Dirty points will create a no fire situation. Many times my old 6V Ford 8n after sitting a bit will need points lightly cleaned to get fire.
You fixed it, consider yourself awesome now.
 
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