Very true... and very frustrating, especially 'new' equipment!
SuperSplit rack return issues...
- Thread starter Sandhill Crane
- Start date
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I think the problem is that the bearings get loaded with crap and that crap gets frozen and then you have issues. you can either take the sled/bearings apart clean them thoroughly and NOT use a greasy lubricant or bring the machine inside overnight to warm when you know you will run it in very cold formerly very wet weather. yes I know that is not convenient but there is NO perfect tool...only the best for what you got.
Most times I have issues with the rack the bearings are the culprit...
Sometimes hydro motors wont start in extreme cold situations too. oil gets thick in cold temps.
Most times I have issues with the rack the bearings are the culprit...
Sometimes hydro motors wont start in extreme cold situations too. oil gets thick in cold temps.
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
TreeTangler
ArboristSite Guru
Amen.
sunfish
Fish Head
I've had only one issue, busted the bearing that pushes the rack down. Paul sent an upgraded three bearing system that is used on the HD model. No more issues. I do keep the beam clean and spray a little WD-40 on the top of the rack when the re-tracking slows a bit. Good as gold!
yea never once has a Briggs motor not started because it was -10 or so...sorry not the actual hydro motor but the motor driving the pump is what i meant.
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
I knew what you meant. lol AND I can absolutely guarantee you that my hydro splitter would be up and running at -10*, but I have to tell you, I no longer will go out and work when it's -10*!!
SR
I am going to throw out a suggestion from an observation I made last wk as it pertains to oil and oil types. I was working with metal, not wood last wk. Drilling some 2.5in holes in 1in metal. At the same time I had my bandsaw sawing 1x8in metal pieces. I have almost always used wd40. pb nut blaster, or some other oil as a cutting fluid to keep the drill bit or saw blade cool. The guy at the metal store told me to get some regular cutting oil and give it a try. So Here I am sawing in one corner and drilling in the other corner, had plenty of pb blaster on hand and one bottle of cutting oil. While drilling the holes, I was using the cutting oil, hole saw throwing out big chips and strings. Everything working fine. Somehow between walking back and forth between the saw and the drill, my oils got switched. I sprayed the metal being drilled with the pbblaster and almost immediantly the chips changed and I noticed the bit getting hot. The bandsaw got a dose of cutting oil and the chips got bigger and the saw started cutting faster. Umm, So I started alternating oils and really paying attention to what was going on. With the cutting oil, the drill bits and bandsaw blade stayed cooler and cut faster. I could actually drill a half inch hole in the 1in thick metal and then grap hold of the drill bit and not get burnt. Pb blaster the bits would get hot enought to smoke. PbBlaster seemed to hold onto the chips gumming up the cut or hole, while the cutting oil let the chips fall free. With cutting oil, drill would throw out long piggy tails and strings, Pbblaster, it was mostly little chips and fines. This is with the same drill bit for every hole.
I had noticed a different in oil several years ago while drilling a lot of holes in another project. I had bought a can of LDS1 spray lubricant at Graingers. I was drilling 1/2in holes in metal and I sprayed a little LDS1 on the bit and noticed an immediant change in the type of cuttings coming off the drill bit. Just another reason to go with the right oil for drilling hole in metal.
I suggest instead of using PB Blaster, WD40, or some other oil on your splitter bearings, you do a little research on lubricating oils. Any oil that is going to attract dirt, is going to gumm up your bearings and accelerate wear and tear on your equipment. The LDS1 I tried is a lubricate, not a oil. I use it at work to lubricate the slides on equipment heads. It doesnt collect dirt and dust like spray greases or penetrating oils. I have tried many spray products on those heads slides over the last 39 years, and have to say the LDS1 works better than anything I have used. Plus it doesnt leave a mess to work in if you have to pull maintenance on the machine. No mess means it isnt collecting dirt and grime. Another plus that I just realised is that I havent had to replace a slide in about 7 years since I started using the LDS1, and its usually every 2-3 years a slide has to be changed because it is worn out. LDS1 cost a little more than PB Blaster, or WD40, but it will save you money in the long run.
I had noticed a different in oil several years ago while drilling a lot of holes in another project. I had bought a can of LDS1 spray lubricant at Graingers. I was drilling 1/2in holes in metal and I sprayed a little LDS1 on the bit and noticed an immediant change in the type of cuttings coming off the drill bit. Just another reason to go with the right oil for drilling hole in metal.
I suggest instead of using PB Blaster, WD40, or some other oil on your splitter bearings, you do a little research on lubricating oils. Any oil that is going to attract dirt, is going to gumm up your bearings and accelerate wear and tear on your equipment. The LDS1 I tried is a lubricate, not a oil. I use it at work to lubricate the slides on equipment heads. It doesnt collect dirt and dust like spray greases or penetrating oils. I have tried many spray products on those heads slides over the last 39 years, and have to say the LDS1 works better than anything I have used. Plus it doesnt leave a mess to work in if you have to pull maintenance on the machine. No mess means it isnt collecting dirt and grime. Another plus that I just realised is that I havent had to replace a slide in about 7 years since I started using the LDS1, and its usually every 2-3 years a slide has to be changed because it is worn out. LDS1 cost a little more than PB Blaster, or WD40, but it will save you money in the long run.
sunfish
Fish Head
No design flaw here. These things have been made this way for close to 30 years or so. There isn't a splitter made I'd trade my SS for...still sounds like a serious design flaw , that needs to be re-asessed, whoever the design if it has bark dirt dust etc clogging things up like bearings quick or needs excessive lube to function its wrong in my opinion, even if customer service is tip notch
sunfish
Fish Head
Good info muddstopper! Yes, there is a huge diff between cutting fluid and lubricating oil. I use both every day, along with tapping fluid...
I'll have to try some of that LDS1.
I'll have to try some of that LDS1.
Is it LDS1 or LPS1. LPS1 greaseless lubricant is $20.56 at granger website.
Well, I had to go look at the can. I always thought it was LDS1 , but looking at the can, that little arrow at the bottom of the P, I thought it was a D, Oh well.. you dont have to pay Graingers high price, http://pilotshq.com/product_info.php?products_id=6344&gclid=CPfa6PKjr8ICFWsF7Aod7SoAPw, here it is for $9.70. Our company gets a discount from graingers and altho not 100% sure on the price, I was thinking $12 a can. The cutting oil I bought at the metal suppler was Lennox brand and was $8 a bottle and it only takes a drop or two per hole.
Just for reference, I used the same hole saw to cut 8-2.5in dia holes in one inch thick metal and its still drilling strong. I have worn out smaller hole saws in thinner metal, with less holes drilled, using PB blaster and WD40. At $13 or so per hole saw, it dont take long to pay for the right oil.
Thanks. I could not find LDS1 lubricant so I Googled lubricants at granger and found LPS1. Case of 12 is $75 on Ebay. Always looking for a lube for the RV hydraulic leveling jacks. They just don't retract if not clean and slick.
PS don't google lubricants
PS don't google lubricants
According to the msds, its a petroleum distillates, I thought silicon, but I guess not. http://www.lpslabs.com/site_files/tech_downloads/10116.pdf
Sunfish, post #25. What is the 3- bearing fix you are speaking of? I have the middle splitter, the HD, of the three Paul offers, (the J, the HD, and the Special Edition) and it has one bearing that rides on the top of the beam. I'm wondering if the heavier Special Edition model has something different?
Edit: Just re-read your post. You seem to be speaking of bearing that engage the rack onto the pinion. Mine has two.
Edit: Just re-read your post. You seem to be speaking of bearing that engage the rack onto the pinion. Mine has two.
sunfish
Fish Head
Sandhill, yes the bearing that pushes down to engage the rack. I might be mistaken, but I believe the upgrade Paul sent me has three bearings side by side. Maybe it's the same as the special edition model? I'll have to look tomorrow.
bottlefed89
ArboristSite Operative
I don't get on here too much, but this thread caught my eye. To Qualify myself, I've been running Super-Split machines for just over 10 years. 2 of the 4 I own are over 30 years old. In the 10 years I've been doing commercial firewood, we've processed over 12,000 cords. I have owned built-rite, and timberwolf machine's as well - I won't knock any of them, but each has it's place, as does the super-splitter. To me, nothing is even comparable to the SS, but I am also picky about the wood we use, which is a huge variable in SS performance. For someone to say that the SS has a design flaw, I'd consider to be a pretty foolish statement, but to each their own.
The several suggestions I could give regarding the original problem - does your I-beam have a groove worn in it from the cam-follower?? If so, I would weld in the groove and re-surface the beam, as that is commonly the start of return issues. There are some some-what tight tolerances that cause less than ideal performance when they are off... Secondly, we go-through a can of WD-40 about every 5-6 cords per splitter, I also keep a wire brush with each splitter. the beam is kept clean by use of the wd, and wire brush, and the bearings are all periodically given a shot to the sides (rather then the face). these are intended to be sealed bearings, but it helps. In the winter, at the end of the day, the bearings are all given a liberal spray of WD, to the face and sides, and then run through several cycles. If my guys are religious about doing that, we almost never have problems. My machine do get left out in the weather, so moving them inside would likely help as well. As someone else mentioned, I also like to weld a foot on the bottom of the table leg to slightly elevate that end of the machine. If all that fails, pull the return spring off and shorten it an inch on each side. They do tend to lose 'springy-ness' after several hundred thousand cycles.. Also, I've seen my guys hold a lit cigarette lighter to the cam-follower before they start on particularly cold mornings just to get things rolling along.
The several suggestions I could give regarding the original problem - does your I-beam have a groove worn in it from the cam-follower?? If so, I would weld in the groove and re-surface the beam, as that is commonly the start of return issues. There are some some-what tight tolerances that cause less than ideal performance when they are off... Secondly, we go-through a can of WD-40 about every 5-6 cords per splitter, I also keep a wire brush with each splitter. the beam is kept clean by use of the wd, and wire brush, and the bearings are all periodically given a shot to the sides (rather then the face). these are intended to be sealed bearings, but it helps. In the winter, at the end of the day, the bearings are all given a liberal spray of WD, to the face and sides, and then run through several cycles. If my guys are religious about doing that, we almost never have problems. My machine do get left out in the weather, so moving them inside would likely help as well. As someone else mentioned, I also like to weld a foot on the bottom of the table leg to slightly elevate that end of the machine. If all that fails, pull the return spring off and shorten it an inch on each side. They do tend to lose 'springy-ness' after several hundred thousand cycles.. Also, I've seen my guys hold a lit cigarette lighter to the cam-follower before they start on particularly cold mornings just to get things rolling along.
I, For one, would love to see some pics of your operation...
Have you "filled in" the groves in the I beam before ? Mine suffers that from a former user a few hundred cords ago as well. Love to learn more about how that gets done. What ends up happening with mine is the grove gets filled with dirt ect. and slows down the bearings. I use a dry silicone on the bearings and blow compressed air at shutdown as well.
sunfish
Fish Head
Well said! Most everyone who uses a Super Split understands.
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