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10-10 SDC question (and probably some others as I write this)...

So this 10-10 I've been working on, I nicknamed it "grumpy" because it's just been a grumpy old saw fighting with me trying to bring it back to life, but the original SDC carb that was on it, I just couldn't get a good tune at idle. WOT seemed to be OK, but idle was just flaky, sometimes it would hunt, sometimes it was OK for a hot second, but the oddest thing was, it really wanted to be leaned out. Like more than I could do with the needle. Have been through it with a kit, thought it was the saw acting stupid (maybe ignition or leaky seal or something), but I swapped out for another SDC, and now it's just as happy as a grumpy saw can be. So... anyone seen this with an SDC? Usually it seems like they want to be fattened up due to an air leak, but this is the opposite. I thought maybe the metering lever, but I tried leaning that out to the point that I almost couldn't get the button to hook on. Buggered low needle? I guess I could swap with the working one and see how it goes...

Other question is ignition wire - it wore through where it comes out of the case. I taped it up with electrical tape for now, and it runs fine like this, but as I understand it from hunting around the forum, that wire can be removed/replaced with a bit of effort digging it out of the coil. It uses a solid core (non-resistor) type wire right? 7mm? I was looking at some tinned wire on "the bay" sold by the foot. Also got some nylon braided jacket to help protect it from future abrasion.

OH... rings for 10-10? I've got another waiting for me that I suspect will need them. I see them for like $30, but I can get a whole new piston with rings from LRB for that. Any chance XL12 rings would fit (for $10 a pair)? Same bore, but I'm not sure about thickness...

And lastly, I've seen several posts about 3D printing the saw dust cage. Definitely interested in that for grumpy - before I lose a finger, or my shirt gets sucked in there... I swear this saw is out to get me LOL

Been a fascinating thread - thanks all!

-Rich
 
I have been reading this thread with much excitement, but I'm only on about page 9, and I'm impatient. I have a Pro Mac 10-10 Model 600014U. Any idea on year, or any specifics I should know about pertaining to this saw? It's my dad's old saw from way back. It runs, but needs some TLC... and a muffler :) I know these babies are loud, but the muffler is non-existent
 
I have been reading this thread with much excitement, but I'm only on about page 9, and I'm impatient. I have a Pro Mac 10-10 Model 600014U. Any idea on year, or any specifics I should know about pertaining to this saw? It's my dad's old saw from way back. It runs, but needs some TLC... and a muffler :) I know these babies are loud, but the muffler is non-existent

I'm not nearly as proficient at dating these as others here, but 77-82 according to the IPL at K&T (great reference site - no affiliation)
https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/McCulloch-Parts-Service-Repair-Manuals/Gas_Powered_Chain_Saws/

-Rich
 
10-10 SDC question (and probably some others as I write this)...

So this 10-10 I've been working on, I nicknamed it "grumpy" because it's just been a grumpy old saw fighting with me trying to bring it back to life, but the original SDC carb that was on it, I just couldn't get a good tune at idle. WOT seemed to be OK, but idle was just flaky, sometimes it would hunt, sometimes it was OK for a hot second, but the oddest thing was, it really wanted to be leaned out. Like more than I could do with the needle. Have been through it with a kit, thought it was the saw acting stupid (maybe ignition or leaky seal or something), but I swapped out for another SDC, and now it's just as happy as a grumpy saw can be. So... anyone seen this with an SDC? Usually it seems like they want to be fattened up due to an air leak, but this is the opposite. I thought maybe the metering lever, but I tried leaning that out to the point that I almost couldn't get the button to hook on. Buggered low needle? I guess I could swap with the working one and see how it goes...

Other question is ignition wire - it wore through where it comes out of the case. I taped it up with electrical tape for now, and it runs fine like this, but as I understand it from hunting around the forum, that wire can be removed/replaced with a bit of effort digging it out of the coil. It uses a solid core (non-resistor) type wire right? 7mm? I was looking at some tinned wire on "the bay" sold by the foot. Also got some nylon braided jacket to help protect it from future abrasion.

OH... rings for 10-10? I've got another waiting for me that I suspect will need them. I see them for like $30, but I can get a whole new piston with rings from LRB for that. Any chance XL12 rings would fit (for $10 a pair)? Same bore, but I'm not sure about thickness...

And lastly, I've seen several posts about 3D printing the saw dust cage. Definitely interested in that for grumpy - before I lose a finger, or my shirt gets sucked in there... I swear this saw is out to get me LOL

Been a fascinating thread - thanks all!

-Rich

Contact @heimannm (Mark). He's the one that's making the sawdust screens.
 
What has worked very well for me (even better than stock) is to cover that with a piece of hard felt. It's available at craft stores in sheets. Don't get the soft stuff, Glue it down with epoxy around the edges. Hot melt works well in a pinch. It's washable as well.

Never a spec of dust in the carb box.
20190601_192050.jpg 20190601_190223.jpg 20190601_192058.jpg
Well I probably won't be teaching 5th grade art class but 16.00$ beats a new 50.00 $ fleabay filter.
 
Nice! Got a (backup) chain like that for my Husky 455, can't decide if I like it or not. Seems to hold an edge and cut well enough, but dealing with those funky bent over depth gauges is a pain. There have been a couple posts around here about it - vanguard chain if you get it from Oregon apparently. Maybe they make it for Husky? Took a grinder to it after the last sharpening. Worked OK, but made it a bit grabby - hard to be as precise as with a gauge and file. Got LGX on there now, cuts like a madman.

Grumpy, with his new sawdust guard from Mark. Almost looks like it belongs there! :D
Actually, I think it does a better job of keeping out chips with the round holes than the factory cage.

 
Nice! Got a (backup) chain like that for my Husky 455, can't decide if I like it or not. Seems to hold an edge and cut well enough, but dealing with those funky bent over depth gauges is a pain. There have been a couple posts around here about it - vanguard chain if you get it from Oregon apparently. Maybe they make it for Husky? Took a grinder to it after the last sharpening. Worked OK, but made it a bit grabby - hard to be as precise as with a gauge and file. Got LGX on there now, cuts like a madman.

Grumpy, with his new sawdust guard from Mark. Almost looks like it belongs there! :D
Actually, I think it does a better job of keeping out chips with the round holes than the factory cage.


That chain was free with the purchase of a pro mac 700 , I've had one before and taken the dog ears off with my dermel which is a little tedious but helps shape them into proper rakers. This chain will be modified the same when the opportunity to do it happens otherwise its impossible to throw big chips, I would NEVER buy one on purpose.
 
That chain was free with the purchase of a pro mac 700 , I've had one before and taken the dog ears off with my dermel which is a little tedious but helps shape them into proper rakers. This chain will be modified the same when the opportunity to do it happens otherwise its impossible to throw big chips, I would NEVER buy one on purpose.

Interesting, so you just grind off the horizontal part so it looks like a normal-ish one? I need to look into this...
 
I have that chain on a couple saws because that's what came on em but I wouldn't go out of my way to buy it. At least it's full chisel chain. I just file (adjust) the safety raker like a normal raker using a good file and a progressive type depth gauge tool and find that it cuts fine for general use once you get a decent profile established between the rakers and cutters. I actually have some on one of my 10-10's and it's not bad at all. I'm normally a RS guy so I do know how pro chain cuts by comparison.
 
I wanted to start this thread to pay honors to the venerable McCulloch 10-10 series saw. One of the first saws I went to the woods with nigh on 35+ years ago. The saw you wanted to kill but would never die. A saw that once forgotten, still can hold it's own amongst all the newer saws out there. A saw that was built in such numbers and is still so prevalent, that i like to refer to it as the "chevy 350" of chainsaws. I have ran several and owned 3, hopefully will be getting into a few more here within a couple weeks. My favorite variety is the current one, a 1969 production year by SN, right hand start. It is one of the lightest saws of its size I have handled, and with a 20" B/C really does well, even with the bar buried completley in wood (cutting Doug Fir). A real "no frills" working machine, IMO, Here's to the Mac 10-10:rock::rock:
This one is my favorite
787b833df3f3f661ee399a0a69808d5e.jpg


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