Whats the most popular hotsaw model to build? Both Husky and Stihl?

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golddredgergold

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I posted this over in the chainsaw section. No activity here. So please delete this one no problem. I would have done it myself of the option was available.



What would you say the most popular model to build a hotsaw in Husqvarna?

Same question but what model Stihl is most popular?


Want to choose a saw that when I show up to compete I am not the only one with my model saw. I would prefer to enter the most popular class with the most popular saw.
 
It depends on what cc class you want to compete in. Given a choice today I would pick one of the Husky's,some of their models have 4 big modern style transfer ports,while most of the other brands are still using 2 miserable little transfer ports from the 50's era. The 372 type Husky saws and the 385/390 have these excellent ports,I would look to see if Bailys has a bigbore piston and cylinder kit for the 390,should come close to 100cc,and would be my first choice for sure.
 
Being from that era I can tell you the 2100 was a beast for it's day,a good combination of cc's,carb size,porting etc. But like most older saws the 2100 is crippled with only 2 small transfer ports(compared to the 395's 4 big ones) and can never make as much all-out power. But a torque brute it was!
 
My stock 2100 with the govenor plugged, 8 tooth 404 rim, a 16” bar with 404 chisel chain with the rakers set at .040”. would bore the holes in the square timber so fast on the pull in she stuck the spikes. I had to remove the spikes. Eight cuts in 17.5 seconds on a 9”x9” pine timber. Six slices three up three down and two bored holes without breaking out.

My point is practice this at home. I’m just suggesting you to learn how a stock setup tweeted handles.

I seen the older husky dirtbikes go from one large transfer port on both sides of the cylinder to four, two on each side. The single transfers were on the bigger bores sometimes, don’t forget to knife edge that rib between the two transfer ports I arc the knife edge like a upside down half moon so the most of the flow is centered off the side walls.

Please be careful with a hot saw. My 2100’s were 25lbs of beast.

For building a hot saw I’d go with the biggest cc’s you can find. But the smaller cc’s does rev higher but lack torque. For a smaller cc saw I make the chain speed the highest it can be with it razor sharp with the gullet hogged out. (Chip clearance). Let the saw cut don’t lean on it too hard.
 
Would suggest if you haven't go to some fairs /Comps to see what the saws the regular entrants use & ask questions to get an idea of what seems to be best over a #o saws as there will always be a couple of standout guys/saws & you will find the helpful /not so willing guys to discuss there saws I found when I first went the brass monkey syndrome was de rigour Hear all See all say "Nowt"
 
If you want a 100cc hotsaw that is easy to build the 2094/2095 Jonsered is great,because mounting the big HT carb on it is incredibly simple,it can be done in an hour or so,the 084 intake boot fits right on the cylinder.
 
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