woodin' the hard way

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I still say go spend 500 on an old 4wd atv and get a lot splitter for 900 and you would move much faster. Idk what u run for saws but make sure those are worth the effort too.

I've bought plenty of atvs for 500 that needed mild mechanical work to be like new again. My sportsman 500 is my upgrade and it's 20 years old.
 
Guess I can't say ATVs are a great idea without some caution. Have a 250 Polaris I've been wrenching on and off unsuccessfully for about 10 years. 700 to buy it 500 down the hole and at least 40 hours of work to try to fix it and it still is a complete garbage heap. Right now I have to pull the main drive clutch off to replace the crank seal. Because the motor mount was bad it also killed the clutch cover, which exposes the clutch to dust water and debris which kills the clutch and the swing weights at a very accelerated rate. Looking at $30 for the clutch tool, $30 for the seal, $150 for a clutch cover, $98 for a rear brake line $150 for front struts and likely a steering bushing set, also rear axle bearings and the 4wd wires are broken too... and probably another dam battery because they die yearly.... You have to know what you are doing before you jump into that game and know the warning signs. I cant decide whether to continue with the repairs or to part it out. This is not to mention the .30 over piston, jug, motor mounts, carb work, brake work, and other time I've spent trying to get it to just work (and pushing it back home if it doesn't)

I'd love to use it for skidding logs off hillsides and not having to use a hundred feet of chain and cable to do it...
 
Guess I can't say ATVs are a great idea without some caution. Have a 250 Polaris I've been wrenching on and off unsuccessfully for about 10 years. 700 to buy it 500 down the hole and at least 40 hours of work to try to fix it and it still is a complete garbage heap. Right now I have to pull the main drive clutch off to replace the crank seal. Because the motor mount was bad it also killed the clutch cover, which exposes the clutch to dust water and debris which kills the clutch and the swing weights at a very accelerated rate. Looking at $30 for the clutch tool, $30 for the seal, $150 for a clutch cover, $98 for a rear brake line $150 for front struts and likely a steering bushing set, also rear axle bearings and the 4wd wires are broken too... and probably another dam battery because they die yearly.... You have to know what you are doing before you jump into that game and know the warning signs. I cant decide whether to continue with the repairs or to part it out. This is not to mention the .30 over piston, jug, motor mounts, carb work, brake work, and other time I've spent trying to get it to just work (and pushing it back home if it doesn't)

I'd love to use it for skidding logs off hillsides and not having to use a hundred feet of chain and cable to do it...

Well, yes - there are some piles out there for sale. But with some time someone should be able to find something decent. Is that 250 a 2 stroke? I had one of those to use on a job once, and it was a pile when it was brand new. Clutch came apart on it on me when I was going through a ditch. Pitched me over the bars. At least it was close to the road to get loaded back on and get rid of.

I have an oldie here - 1997 Arctic Cat 454 4x4. It is a workhorse. Full time 4x4, hi/lo range, real transmission (no belt), solid Suzuki engine. Not pretty and not what I would take to the trails for a day - but it's the real deal for wooding. The past 10 years or so the only things I have spent money on for it are front ball joints, a carb (from years of sitting in a barn), spark plugs & a couple oil changes. Older Suzukis (and others) with hi/lo & 4wd & real transmissions are out there.
 
Yes. 250 2 stroke. There are people who swear by them- and I was going off of their energy and encouragement that this would be a good machine... But at this point I'd be happy with the parts cost back out of it.

Thanks for turning me on to the Suzukis, that's exactly what I'm looking for- pulling power in a small package with the potential for a bit of fun.

The ones I'm finding are out of my price range and maybe the OP's... But my mind is just racing with how much wood I could skid out of my current cutting spots that are just out of reach of my cable and chain.
 
Guess I can't say ATVs are a great idea without some caution. Have a 250 Polaris I've been wrenching on and off unsuccessfully for about 10 years. 700 to buy it 500 down the hole and at least 40 hours of work to try to fix it and it still is a complete garbage heap. Right now I have to pull the main drive clutch off to replace the crank seal. Because the motor mount was bad it also killed the clutch cover, which exposes the clutch to dust water and debris which kills the clutch and the swing weights at a very accelerated rate. Looking at $30 for the clutch tool, $30 for the seal, $150 for a clutch cover, $98 for a rear brake line $150 for front struts and likely a steering bushing set, also rear axle bearings and the 4wd wires are broken too... and probably another dam battery because they die yearly.... You have to know what you are doing before you jump into that game and know the warning signs. I cant decide whether to continue with the repairs or to part it out. This is not to mention the .30 over piston, jug, motor mounts, carb work, brake work, and other time I've spent trying to get it to just work (and pushing it back home if it doesn't)

I'd love to use it for skidding logs off hillsides and not having to use a hundred feet of chain and cable to do it...


There are ATV's that are junk and there are ATV's that are bullet proof. If you don't know the difference, you could be buying someone elses headache.
Like dirt bikes ATV's are one of the most stolen off road machines on the market. You can buy cheap parts on ebay or cl but chances are, you'll be buying stolen parts.
 
I bought a 96 Yamaha Kodiak 400 around the corner from my house for 400 it need the rear axle and to be put back togeter. It was a solid work atv after that it wasn't 100 percent but ran good always started and never let me down. Sold it for 1000. Did the same with a Suzuki 250 that I got for my FIL. Did a rebuild and a starter clutch on it and sold that for 1000 when he died. He used it for fire wood. I wouldn't buy an old polaris. Stick to the old Japanese brands they are simple and reliable.

My sportsman 500 is a bit more complex but it works well. It was about 3500 dollars with the plow and winch.
 
Well I have been lurking on and off for a while....but this thread made me join. I would be interested in the topic but this thread has been high-jacked and derailed so badly that I would be surprised if even the OP is still subscribed to it.

For the sake of the OP I would like to reboot the thread. I also have a baby on the way and spending money is something you don't want to do when that is the circumstances. I have a salary job so there is no such thing as overtime to make more money. One of the things I enjoy in my spare time is to cut wood. I actually am not personally burning right now and most of my cutting is helping family. No way I can justify spending much money. The op stated that he didn't want to spend money. And in reality you can produce fire wood with a chainsaw and some hand tools.

So Reboot:
What is the best techniques or tools (under $100) that make the process easier.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 
I will post my first suggestion.

Pick up some good wedges and a sledge hammer used and cheap. There are things that can be split with wedges and a sledge that a log splitter won't do well. Get a good 12 pound sledge hammer. An American style Maul can be used to pound wedges but the balance is all wrong a good sledge will provide a far better experience. If you can't find wedges a splitting maul picked up for a couple bucks with a broken handle will work though not ideal.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 
Well I have been lurking on and off for a while....but this thread made me join. I would be interested in the topic but this thread has been high-jacked and derailed so badly that I would be surprised if even the OP is still subscribed to it.

For the sake of the OP I would like to reboot the thread. I also have a baby on the way and spending money is something you don't want to do when that is the circumstances. I have a salary job so there is no such thing as overtime to make more money. One of the things I enjoy in my spare time is to cut wood. I actually am not personally burning right now and most of my cutting is helping family. No way I can justify spending much money. The op stated that he didn't want to spend money. And in reality you can produce fire wood with a chainsaw and some hand tools.

So Reboot:
What is the best techniques or tools (under $100) that make the process easier.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
$100 of splitter hire.
 
Valid point....8lb....or what better way to become muscular????

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
It's really quite simple. Eat above your caloric maintenance, work out full body 3 days a week doing moderate-heavy compound barbell movements, progress over time on those movements and get plenty of sleep and food. Most of the people who join gyms do endless fluff and pump machine work and after years of going still can't hit intermediate strength numbers that should realistically take about a year of "real" training. Stick to things such as overhead press, rows, deadlift, squat, chinups or pull-ups, dips, bench press, etc. Avoid adding or only doing endless isolation work like cable flyes, and curls.
 
Valid point....8lb....or what better way to become muscular????

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

I work construction and I'm 5'6" and 175lbs I handle my 10lb sledge comfortably take away 50lbs and an 8lb sledge would be tough unless you are in great physical shape.

It's really quite simple. Eat above your caloric maintenance, work out full body 3 days a week doing moderate-heavy compound barbell movements, progress over time on those movements and get plenty of sleep and food. Most of the people who join gyms do endless fluff and pump machine work and after years of going still can't hit intermediate strength numbers that should realistically take about a year of "real" training. Stick to things such as overhead press, rows, deadlift, squat, chinups or pull-ups, dips, bench press, etc. Avoid adding or only doing endless isolation work like cable flyes, and curls.

I used to hit the gym for many years until kids came along and now I like the productive work out of working and cutting and splitting wood with the fiskars and what ever else needs to be done around here. Strong isn't body building it's a life style.
 
Hahahaha. A new poster complains about off topic posting and we manage but a few subsequent posts before lurching into crossfit champs wood scrounger edition.
Keep up the great work team.
 
Hahahaha. A new poster complains about off topic posting and we manage but a few subsequent posts before lurching into crossfit champs wood scrounger edition.
Keep up the great work team.
Hahaha you guys are hilarious with your rabbit trails. Im picturing the dog from the movie Up seeing a squirrel lol.

Technically I did ask a question although it was meant to be a rehtorical question. I was saying that swing a sledge hammer is a great way to build muscle. If there is a specific goal the best way to build the muscle to achieve it is to do the same activity. A certain activity requires such a specific muscle group that it is very hard to replicate in a gym...also how is buying a gym membership going to help the OP save money lol

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk
 
I used to cut wood on the log deck and pivot 180* to stage a double row of rounds, about a half cord, on a trailer next to the splitter. That 180* pivot under load started messing with my knee. I now make sure I walk at least a step or two. It uses different muscles and released the knee stress. So it is more work and takes a bit longer, but the truth is, I can work now without hurting.
As for side tracking. I swept several years of leave off the wood shed roof to repair a puncture from a dead limb. I found a second, older puncture that swelled the OSB to twice it's thickness where the sheathing met on a horizontal and butt joint. Pretty punky. I am very sore tonight despite the shallow 5/12 pitch. Got into much more than I wanted too but it is almost a done deal. The beam hid the puncture from view from below. Got dark on me with maybe twenty shingles to go. Snow in the forecast for 1:00 pm tomorrow. While cutting shingles (the remaining ones are in a warm garage tonight) I thought of an invention. A heated utility knife sheath to keep the blade warm for cutting shingles when it is cold out.IMG_5491.jpg
 
Hahahaha. A new poster complains about off topic posting and we manage but a few subsequent posts before lurching into crossfit champs wood scrounger edition.
Keep up the great work team.

The OP's very first post stated he was short, skinny and not very strong. How is discussing strength off topic???

Please don't confuse Crossfit crap with real strength training. Not the same thing at all.



I work construction and I'm 5'6" and 175lbs I handle my 10lb sledge comfortably take away 50lbs and an 8lb sledge would be tough unless you are in great physical shape.



I used to hit the gym for many years until kids came along and now I like the productive work out of working and cutting and splitting wood with the fiskars and what ever else needs to be done around here. Strong isn't body building it's a life style.

I worked construction for many years, approx 15 years. Always considered myself a pretty strong guy, as did most that worked with me. Always liked being thought of as a "bull". Usually walked around at 185ish lbs at 5'10". Like most I worked out in my late teens early twenties. Stopped going after I got married, had a kid, got divorced, got remarried, had another kid. The whole time I always wanted to get back in the gym. Then in my early thirties I started going again and have been going steady for about 3 years. I made it part of my life/daily routine. I go early in the morning before work and it doesn't interfere with family time as they are sleeping then. Its a great stress reliever and I really enjoy it. I currently walk around at 210 lbs. and am considerably stronger than I ever was when I worked construction. My strength has been documented in a notebook and I am still surprised when I look back.

For those who think lifting heavy barbells isn't equated into "real world strength" are delusional. If you can deadlift 600 lbs, squat 495, bench in the mid 300's, overhead press your bodyweight, what "real world" tasks are going to give you trouble. I cant think of any. Mix in some cardio for heart health and conditioning and you'll be healthier than 95% of people who work physical jobs. Most of these jobs are doing repetitive motion movements all day long, not building general brute strength. I've done both.
 
A perfect example is Arden Cogar Jr. who I think most of you know who is he. A world renowned lumberjack champion. One of the physically strongest Timbersport competitors to ever to compete. Same thing with most of the best guys. Note they are all pretty much physically strong guys for the vast majority. Does anyone think its a coincidence that Arden happens to be one of the best choppers and single buck sawyers in the world AND that he happens to have a serious background in powerlifting and weightlifting in general? If he can destroy a log in seconds, what do you think he would do to a pile of rounds???

The guy uses a special saw that most men can't handle due to not having the horsepower to utilize it. Smaller guys learn techniques, but Arden uses his size.

I'm not saying every woodcutter has to be a monster of a man, but having a good strength base is beneficial for everyone in life and can prevent injuries as you get older. If the OP cant afford a splitter and other fancy equipment, yet is a small and not strong individual, then he could greatly benefit from gaining some muscle mass. Busting rounds in less swings is the name of the game, and at the end of the day he'll have exerted less energy and less time.

Go back to his original post and re-read it. Especially the last couple sentences, and tell me gaining significant strength isn't his best way out while saving money. A gym membership isn't going to break the bank.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top