Why do pro saws last longer?

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dadouthat

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I read the thread about the guy who cuts a zillion cords of wood with his Stihl 250's. I have newer saws but do like the old 250 and wonder how bad they really are. I know that Troll says a Stihl 250 is made entirely out of recycled Pepsi bottles and that they are only suitable when mounted on the wall with the bar protruding to hold toilet paper. But do the pro models all last longer than the roughly comparable homeowner's saw? I hear that the 390's have had problems but is that the case for all of the homeowner's models? If the durability is greater, why is that the case?

To take as examples, the Stihl 250 and 260. Clearly the Pro saw has more power and a better power/weight ratio, and of course the split magnesium crankcase for ease of repair. But the piston, bar, chain, oiler, recoil starter, fuel tank, hoses, vibration dampers, and so on are of identical quality and presumably if they come out of the same plant, the quality control in manufacturing is the same. So why should the Pro saw be any more durable?

That's the serious part. On to appearance. I do feel that the combination of black and orange of the homeowners Stihls is much nicer than the cream/orange of the pro model Stihls, and both are superior in color and shape to the ugly Dolmars and especially to their weird blue/green Makita siblings. Nothing is as pretty as the Husky orange but the Jonsred red/black is just too drab. Shindaiwa red is ok, but the Echo grey is too hard to find in volcanic ash, and I never did like the Poulan Green.
 
genuine "pro" saws are max perfomance at (almost) any expense. disregard all that ebay b/s about my saw cuts wood, pros cut wood, so this must be a pro saw.

stronger, lighter materials is the ultimate answer (resulting in a lighter saw and more power, but it wont blow up after 20 hours). putting it together and making it last is the biggest challenge

mag alloy cases, lighter stonger pistons and cylinders, less plastic and more grunt blah blah blah.

if you are only using the saw once a year you wouldnt notice the difference
 
Why do pro saws last longer

Build quality/materials used





this is not a pro saw
plastisaw.jpg
 
No, but I would almost bet there are more 350's out there than most "pro" saw models.

So true. Homeowner non-pro saws outsell pro saws by a huge margin. Why, more homeowner users than professional users. In the Stihl line-up the MS 290 is the biggest seller they have thanks to the average non-pro user. That 350 Husky pictured is most likely one of if not their top seller in their line-up for the same reason. Lowes and Sears will sell alot more Husky 350's this year than dealers will sell 346's. Without home owner saws offered today by all companies chances are good most saw companies would be long gone.
 
Pro saws actually don't last as long because, well, they're used by pros. :)


LOL, good point. Most pro users I sell to tear a saw to hell in a few short years. They drop em out of trees, run over them and the list goes on and on. However the pro saw does indeed take more abuse than a homeowner type saw which is the main reason the pro uses only pro type saws. Pro type saws are easier to work on which is another plus for the pro guy. The homeowner is gonna come see me and he's gotsa payyyyyyyyyyyyy,LOL
 
So true. Homeowner non-pro saws outsell pro saws by a huge margin. Why, more homeowner users than professional users. In the Stihl line-up the MS 290 is the biggest seller they have thanks to the average non-pro user. That 350 Husky pictured is most likely one of if not their top seller in their line-up for the same reason. Lowes and Sears will sell alot more Husky 350's this year than dealers will sell 346's. Without home owner saws offered today by all companies chances are good most saw companies would be long gone.

Yep, a 290 will last just as long as a 440 for the usual saw owner (78% of people on AS). If you don't run a saw that often and for long periods of time, why pay for more "durable" materials if you don't need them. It doesn't matter if you have a saw designed for 1000 hours or 500 hours of use if you only use it for maybe 100. You won't destroy either if you take care of it.
 
All that has been said is true! I only cut firewood yet suffer from CAD,Some of my saws only see a hour of use a Year. But a hour of steady use = allot of fire wood! I can easily fill a pickup in a hour of cutting.
 
Yep, a 290 will last just as long as a 440 for the usual saw owner (78% of people on AS). If you don't run a saw that often and for long periods of time, why pay for more "durable" materials if you don't need them. It doesn't matter if you have a saw designed for 1000 hours or 500 hours of use if you only use it for maybe 100. You won't destroy either if you take care of it.

Yup, on the money. I'd like to have a dollar for everytime I've been told "I'm really not going to use it all that much". Thats a typical non-pro user at the rack looking at all the saws. They admire the pro saws but can't justify the extra money for no more than they intend to use it. I do quite often get the non-pro user who comes in that has to have the pro saw whether he's going to use it or not. They are the easiest people to sell to. They've done their homework before coming in and know pretty well exactly what pro saw they want. Being polite I never remind them they don't really need such a saw, I merely advise extra chains, bar oil, motor mix, chaps, wedges, files, helmet and a case to go with it. I figure if they're going to buy sometihng they don't really need they may as well buy plenty of it,LOLOL
 
Yup, on the money. I'd like to have a dollar for everytime I've been told "I'm really not going to use it all that much". Thats a typical non-pro user at the rack looking at all the saws. They admire the pro saws but can't justify the extra money for no more than they intend to use it. I do quite often get the non-pro user who comes in that has to have the pro saw whether he's going to use it or not. They are the easiest people to sell to. They've done their homework before coming in and know pretty well exactly what pro saw they want. Being polite I never remind them they don't really need such a saw, I merely advise extra chains, bar oil, motor mix, chaps, wedges, files, helmet and a case to go with it. I figure if they're going to buy sometihng they don't really need they may as well buy plenty of it,LOLOL
You are a good salesmen! Yep don't forget the wedges makes life so much easier!
 
You are a good salesmen! Yep don't forget the wedges makes life so much easier!

Yup. Its amazing how such a cheap thing as a wedge will allow the saw to come home out the woods verses being stuck in a log left in the woods. Several months back I had a customer get his saw stuck in a log. He used a digging iron to pry it out and snapped the handle. Instead of paying 3.00 for a plastic wedge he paid 50.00 for a new handle. A wedge probably wouldn't have helped him though but that 50.00 bill must have, haven't seen him since. He must have took offence when I said "you did what",LOL
 
Yup. Its amazing how such a cheap thing as a wedge will allow the saw to come home out the woods verses being stuck in a log left in the woods. Several months back I had a customer get his saw stuck in a log. He used a digging iron to pry it out and snapped the handle. Instead of paying 3.00 for a plastic wedge he paid 50.00 for a new handle. A wedge probably wouldn't have helped him though but that 50.00 bill must have, haven't seen him since. He must have took offence when I said "you did what",LOL
You mean he didn't make a warranty claim! lol
 
You mean he didn't make a warranty claim! lol

Oh yes, he tried. He firmly felt the handle must have been cracked or broken when he bought the saw. After he told me how he got the saw un-stuck out of the log he pretty well shot himself in the foot. I said "you did what" while trying not to laff. Long story short he had to payyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy,LOL
 
Oh yes, he tried. He firmly felt the handle must have been cracked or broken when he bought the saw. After he told me how he got the saw un-stuck out of the log he pretty well shot himself in the foot. I said "you did what" while trying not to laff. Long story short he had to payyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy,LOL
LOL! I have got my saw's stuck before and I take it on a personal level makes me feel like a moron or rookie. So I would never tell anyone what I did!
 
LOL! I have got my saw's stuck before and I take it on a personal level makes me feel like a moron or rookie. So I would never tell anyone what I did!

That's why you always take more than one saw to the woods. CAD has its uses. I once pinched a saw and tried to cut it out and pinched the other one as well. 4 saws later I got them all out, and still had 12 on the shelf if I needed them (or a box of wedges too if I didn't want to play a little). My dad was laughing his ass off, but then he couldn't say "why do you need all them saws".
 
That's why you always take more than one saw to the woods. CAD has its uses. I once pinched a saw and tried to cut it out and pinched the other one as well. 4 saws later I got them all out, and still had 12 on the shelf if I needed them (or a box of wedges too if I didn't want to play a little). My dad was laughing his ass off, but then he couldn't say "why do you need all them saws".
+1 And if the 3 or 4 saw's I have are not enough I have a bow saw and axe No way you can get a axe stuck!
 
if you are only using the saw once a year you wouldnt notice the difference

Ding, Ding, Ding! Correct, we have a winner.I would add that the Pro's mostly easier chain adjusment and quicker/easier access to the air filter are worth it in the long run.

Plus, the Stihl paint flakes off the Pro magnesium crankfast so fast that your saw will look like a true veteran of the woods in a very short time. Those "girly" homeowner plastic saws always look newer, so you'll forever look like a greenhorn.:)
 
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