Stihl 021 teardown, with pics, and questions...

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Don't let those roller bearings get loose(there are 14 of them).

Ahhh yes, loose roller bearings. I have plenty o' experience... :bang:

Below is a rear suspension component from a off-road motorcycle. Sticky grease, lots of time, and a helping of patience are all needed to reassemble.

Jim / Wrooster


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oh and one more thing:

NO ONE HAS SUGGESTED PORTING IT YET !?!?!??!?!

you guys are slowing down... :wave:

Jim / Wrooster

Porting a 210??? :dizzy:

May as well just off this one as parts on Ebay and buy that 250.

Really, how are you gonna lower the squish on a clamshell cased engine, and keep the seal arches so they work ??? :monkey:
 
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Remove the 2 torx bolts and pull your coil out of your 210 case before you clean it. No need to leave it in there for cleaning. Simple to remove. They are spendy; just paper towel them off. After you put the flywheel/motor back in, adjust the coil to be as close to the flywheel as possible for good spark.

You can probably get by leaving the seals as they are. They look OK. But if they fail, it means going back in there again.

You can hone (lightly!!!!) the jug, but not required. I would just cross hatch it to seat the new rings.
 
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Final open questions:

1) how much side-to-side (angular) play should the connecting rod have with respect to the roller bearings?...

5) what is the best way to ensure the chain oil pump and the chain oil passageways are clear of debris?

6) bottom end reassembly: scrape the old sealant off, clean with mineral spirits, apply Dirko or Yamabond, and close up the clamshell?

Also, should I lube the rings and bottom end bearings/journals with Stihl 2 stroke oil during reassembly?

Jim / Wrooster
 
on these types of ignition systems i like to set the coil using a couple sheets of paper between the coil and the flywheel magnet. 1 sheet= ~.004"

Gotcha, thanks.

I cleaned the form-a-gasket from the bottom of the jug. Now then, best way to get the carbon out of the top of the jug?

And on another note, is the tiny depression in the OEM piston crown standard issue? It's about 0.010" or thereabouts deep.

Click for the BIG view:
http://losdos.dyndns.org:8080/public/coltsneck/stihl-021/DSCN4386.JPG

BTW the manufacturing date code is plainly visible above. :clap:

ps:
HimWill, thanks for the idea to keep the crank rollers in check.

Jim / Wrooster

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I cleaned the form-a-gasket from the bottom of the jug. Now then, best way to get the carbon out of the top of the jug?

And on another note, is the tiny depression in the OEM piston crown standard issue? It's about 0.010" or thereabouts deep.

Piston depression looks like the dimple from a piston stop used on it at one time. I use rope, rag or even a paper towel as a piston stop. I use a brass wire wheel on a dremel tool to clean up the combustion chamber.
 
looks like someone put in a spark plug that was too long or used a piston stop. Has this saw been apart at the dealer before?

Not been to the dealer, and I use a piece of nylon rope for a piston stop. Hmmm...

Jim / Wrooster
 
OK, after a lot of cleanup and inspection here's what I need to get this little guy running again:

-- Fuel line
-- Fuel filter
-- Impulse line
-- Carb kit
-- Drive sprocket
-- Drive sprocket bearing
-- Spark plug
-- Piston rings
-- Crank seals
-- B&C combo


Jim / Wrooster
 
Sounds good. Maybe get a pair of falling wedges while you are ordering from Bailey's. And maybe some new starter rope. And spare bar nuts. Stupid stuff that can be a show-stopper out there cutting.
 
OK, after a lot of cleanup and inspection here's what I need to get this little guy running again:

-- Fuel line
-- Fuel filter
-- Impulse line
-- Carb kit
-- Drive sprocket
-- Drive sprocket bearing
-- Spark plug
-- Piston rings
-- Crank seals
-- B&C combo


Jim / Wrooster

If so, buy a new saw, you are talking 130$ plus in parts, and you will have a rebuilt "old" saw....

It is a shame you tore it down this far, when a fuel ine, impulse line, and a sprocket would have sufficed
 
If so, buy a new saw, you are talking 130$ plus in parts, and you will have a rebuilt "old" saw....

It is a shame you tore it down this far, when a fuel ine, impulse line, and a sprocket would have sufficed

Wow! Where to begin. Get the flywheel back on and verify compression. If its that low I think thats why it wont start. Sprocket looks wasted. Crud is no biggie.You may want to just ebay the parts and make some money with it. Im sure you dont want to hear that but with low compression its going to take alot more time.:cheers:

Thats what I was thinking.:cheers:
 
OK now, if the ball busting is over and done with... :)

The piston rings come qty 2 to a kit. So no extra there.

The seals, cheap ones at least, are eluding me right now. Ordinarily they are a couple of bucks at NAPA, but they are
priced higher now ($6.99 ea) for whatever reason.

The impulse line I may have to buy from the dealer near where I work, since I can't seem to find one online.

The carb kit is OEM Walbro.

The ArborMax B&C setup didn't come to me out of thin air; a quick search will turn up a number of satisfied AS'ers. It's an occasional use firewood saw; I'm not staring in a TV show with it.

Shipping for this lot to my zip code is $9.82.

I'm believe still under my previously discussed $100 allotted budget. So... :givebeer:

Or give me an idea of something else to do. I haven't ordered anything yet, I wanted to get done with cleaning it up so I didn't have to place a 2nd order for something small.

Jim / Wrooster
 

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