An Observation About Using AvGas

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that sweet or minty taste from lead paint is caused the lead salts (the bad stuff that kills your brain) metallic lead isnt a big problem but the lead salts and some other lead compounds are. The yellow powder or coating on sparkplugs after using leaded fuel is the lead glazing formed from the lead compounds in the fuel and changing heat ranges will not get rid of it. Its part of the reason sparkplugs only lasted a few thousand miles way back when and now they last over 100k miles (new metallurgy in the plugs helps but so does the fuel)
 
Low lead (TEL) means less than 2 grams per gallon. Unless I poked the buttons wrong, With 2735.2 grams of gasoline in a gallon I came up with:
0.00073121 (another way of saying "not a whole lot of TEL" in there)

Now we transfer you back to your regulary scheduled programing...:censored:

What did you do there? If TEL means less than 2 grams of lead per gallon.....:dizzy:

Lead content in one's blood is measured in micrograms per deciliter (millionths of a gram per tenth liter). Over 25 micros per dl is very dangerous.
 
We have a gas dealer in Reidsville NC that sells different racing fuels to the dirt track crowd. I bought some 93 there yesterday, because he doesn't add alcohol to anything, and was beside a pump marked unleaded racing fuel.

What's the difference between that and aviation fuel if any. I think the last I bought from him was purple, but that was a few years ago.
 
Good post.

I would not dream of using any leaded fuel with handheld equipment where you may inhale some exhaust gas. It doesn't take much lead to have negative effects on your neurological and reproductive systems.

We now know enough about lead that it should be avoided. I might wonder why or how it would be allowed in any type of fuel today, but them I am not an expert ! As far as neurological and reproductive systems -- the former for sure.. the later I am not worrying too much about any longer.
 
Dealer search

I found my dealer for premium non-oxygenated fuel by doing a google search using just "non-oxygenated fuel". I wound up getting a wholesaler who was happy enough to tell me who he sold to.

A couple other places to check:
Most new gas stations don't have it, it involves putting in another tank, costs money for a small profit.
If there is a classic car club nearby they may know, since this is the fuel they want.
Same with boaters, check with the local Marina or boat/bait shop.
Best bet is an older Independent gas station.
Here in MN you can also get it at Fleet Farm.
I've never checked, but maybe a farm co-op would be a possibilitiy.

I have always had good luck with Premium Non-Ox mixed with Stabil and 45% Ultra.
 
The old boy I bought my 2165 from insisted on settin it up for av-gas. he said that #%$&& alcohol in the gas ruins the saw. I used it for awhile but quit when it became too much of a PITA to get it ( the airport insists on a N number to even buy it now for security reasons) I quit.

I do miss the way the saw sounds when runnin it though. that and the smell!:chainsaw::chainsaw::chainsaw:


I use what ever gas is cheapest in town now :)
 
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Teach,
I understand what you're getting at and I appreciate your input, but the purpose for the AvGas is not the performance increase. Higher octane is really only useful at higher compressions. I'm looking for solutions to the long-term storage question as was alluded to by Brad. Maybe the AvGas, although is does store much longer, is not the answer...especially if my saws don't run as well...and, of course, the lead thing too.

Thanks, good point. I had forgotten that. I do recall something about using it when comp is 200 psi or above. Man that would be hard to start!
 
There's some good info in this thread, and the points that 100LL is designed for low revving engines needs emphasising.

Way back when racing karts, we avoided leaded fuel as you (as in the engine :greenchainsaw:) ended up with lead balls over the the plug. PULP was much better, and our PULP here at the time was only 95RON (roughly 91AKI)
We didn't have any detonation problems running much smaller chambers than the average saw either.

The hot ticket for the last fifteen years or so in karting has been one of Elf's unleaded race fuels.
 
How about an old truck?

Hope I am not hijacking this thread too badly. I have a fuel question regarding an old truck I am considering buying fo roccasional use. It is a 1964 Chevy 6 cylk 3 on the tree with 75K original. Farm truck, still in nice shape.

Is there a way I can run pump gas in this vehicle and maintain the engine? I know there are lead substitutes out there, but know nothing about their effectiveness. I have seen posts in this thread from people who obviously know a heck of a lot more than me. Some great info.

Recommendations? If I get this truck I will definitely post sum saw/truck firewood pics.

Three on the tree rocks!

Remember dwell meters? Hope it has the adjustable distributor. I actually still have the little flexible allen tool for that.
 
Mate, just use an upper cylinder lubricant/lead substitute from a car parts store.

One that is common here is Flashlube, some friends use it in their FJ47 Land Cruiser with the 2F engine and have done for years after being recommended to by their mechanic and it's still running strong. (and that Toyota engine is just a development of that old Chev ;) )
 
Why not just run it til it's worn out (likely quite a while for occasional use) on regular fuel, and then have proper heads put on?
 
The avgas doesn't evaporate as easily as pump gas, could be the problem.
That is exactly the opposite of what happens. Just spill some of both on the concrete and watch what happens. The AvGas will be gone is seconds and the pump gas will linger for minutes.
I have used AvGas in just about everything for years now from weed wackers to riding mowers and antique tractors. IMO I have seen no ill affects from it at all. If anything I put it in makes less power I have no way of knowing that but for idling and throttle response I've seen no issues what so ever. I did buy a 4 cycle blower last year and thought it affected the way it ran but this season its seems to be just fine. And none of my saws require in extended warm up time or any extra fuss at all.
 
Hope I am not hijacking this thread too badly. I have a fuel question regarding an old truck I am considering buying fo roccasional use. It is a 1964 Chevy 6 cylk 3 on the tree with 75K original. Farm truck, still in nice shape.

Is there a way I can run pump gas in this vehicle and maintain the engine? I know there are lead substitutes out there, but know nothing about their effectiveness. I have seen posts in this thread from people who obviously know a heck of a lot more than me. Some great info.

Recommendations? If I get this truck I will definitely post sum saw/truck firewood pics.

Three on the tree rocks!

Remember dwell meters? Hope it has the adjustable distributor. I actually still have the little flexible allen tool for that.
Run the old girl on mid grade or premium you will be fine.What is the comp on the beast? I had a 68 old's that would not run all out with premium but would run great on a mix of av fuel and mid grade it would ping unless I set the timing way back from stock, but it had 200lb comp 425 rocket big block Olds motor It ran fine on premium or a mix of av gas but you could not put your foot in it unless you had av gas or it would ping.
 

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