What's the justification for not using 50:1 for milling?

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Good morning all.
I have read the entire thread. HarleyT made one comment about the "Oil thread" (funny) and I'm amazed that nobody has mentioned the fact that resistance causes HEAT. All are talking about oil mix, etc. Nobody has asked the OP if his chain is sharp and in top notch condition. Just curious. :rolleyes:
I run a Wood Mizer LT40HD. If I hit just one little fence staple, piece of fence, etc., it's time for a new blade. Ya never know what you will find in a log. JMHO OT :cool:
Brand new chain - no worries there. I think it's gotta be oil/gas ratio + carb adjustments. My previous carb adjustment (within limiters) had the H jet at 12,300 rpm, which was enough for smallish logs. The monster log from the other day obviously needed less rpm.
 
Brand new chain - no worries there. I think it's gotta be oil/gas ratio + carb adjustments. My previous carb adjustment (within limiters) had the H jet at 12,300 rpm, which was enough for smallish logs. The monster log from the other day obviously needed less rpm.
Be sure to let us know if you destroyed the 395xp. 😢 Have a great day. OT :cool:
 
Good morning all.
I have read the entire thread. HarleyT made one comment about the "Oil thread" (funny) and I'm amazed that nobody has mentioned the fact that resistance causes HEAT. All are talking about oil mix, etc. Nobody has asked the OP if his chain is sharp and in top notch condition. Just curious. :rolleyes:
I run a Wood Mizer LT40HD. If I hit just one little fence staple, piece of fence, etc., it's time for a new blade. Ya never know what you will find in a log. JMHO OT :cool:
i think it is because he runs a Husky.🤣🤣. i was milling a red oak with my 084 and 60"b/c and i hit nails and kept milling.
 
In a two cycle there is such a thing as oil migration time. The higher the load and RPM the faster the oils moves through the motor. Milling, buy its nature is high load and rpm hence running more oil is beneficial.
I would set the carb 500 rpms or so below factory spec. It should four stroke when unloaded after a long cut. If it doesn't richen it up until it does so. I would then run no less than a 32:1 ratio and probably a 24:1 ratio using a good quality FD oil.
 
I run 32-1 in everything.
It smokes a little on start up but clears up once the saw is warm.
I also dont mill with a chainsaw. I think it's silly, you can get a small bandsaw mill for only a little more than a big chainsaw plus the chainsaw mill which is way faster and better.
There's a hand full of bandsaw mills close to me and not one chainsaw mill.
Thank you...
I have plenty of large cc saws that I refuse to mill with. Just too painful to watch and too expensive to repair-myself.
 
To answer the OP, yes I would use more oil than 50:1 for milling. Some instructions even recommend this. I use 40:1 for everything now, even when using canned fuel, I top up with oil. Use good FD rated oil (some of the Stihl synthetic oils are rubbish) fresh petrol and make sure you tune the engine to the new fuel. Finally treat your saw well - warm the saw up, don't push the bar in, keep the chain sharp and use an auxiliary bar oiler. Get the biggest saw you can.

If you do all this, you cannot overheat the saw! I've been milling for six years now with a 20 year old 088 and the piston looks like new.
 
To answer the OP, yes I would use more oil than 50:1 for milling. Some instructions even recommend this. I use 40:1 for everything now, even when using canned fuel, I top up with oil. Use good FD rated oil (some of the Stihl synthetic oils are rubbish) fresh petrol and make sure you tune the engine to the new fuel. Finally treat your saw well - warm the saw up, don't push the bar in, keep the chain sharp and use an auxiliary bar oiler. Get the biggest saw you can.

If you do all this, you cannot overheat the saw! I've been milling for six years now with a 20 year old 088 and the piston looks like new.
Which Stihl oils are rubbish? I use the HP ultra stuff, because it's biodegradeable.
 
To answer the OP, yes I would use more oil than 50:1 for milling. Some instructions even recommend this. I use 40:1 for everything now, even when using canned fuel, I top up with oil. Use good FD rated oil (some of the Stihl synthetic oils are rubbish) fresh petrol and make sure you tune the engine to the new fuel. Finally treat your saw well - warm the saw up, don't push the bar in, keep the chain sharp and use an auxiliary bar oiler. Get the biggest saw you can.

If you do all this, you cannot overheat the saw! I've been milling for six years now with a 20 year old 088 and the piston looks like new.
Thanks for the info. I had no idea that Stihl ultra (which I use) is only JASO-FB certified while what I need is JASO-FD. This actually might have been part of my problem. My tech (who put in a new top end within 24 hours!) said that the fuel in the tank looked kinda off, but he had no idea what that meant. It's possible that the Ultra oil, which is biodegradeable, did indeed biodegrade a bit in the 1.5 months that the oil/gas mix has been sitting around in my 5-gallon jug. Thoughts?
 
Thanks for the info. I had no idea that Stihl ultra (which I use) is only JASO-FB certified while what I need is JASO-FD. This actually might have been part of my problem. My tech (who put in a new top end within 24 hours!) said that the fuel in the tank looked kinda off, but he had no idea what that meant. It's possible that the Ultra oil, which is biodegradeable, did indeed biodegrade a bit in the 1.5 months that the oil/gas mix has been sitting around in my 5-gallon jug. Thoughts?
Biodegrading isn't an issue as long as it's mixed with fuel and 1.5 months isn't terribly long.
And yes, Stihl Ultra oil is garbage at a premium price.
 
Which Stihl oils are rubbish? I use the HP ultra stuff, because it's biodegradeable.
Yes stihl ultra is not good. There are plenty of videos showing many issues such as insufficient oiling in the crankcase.

I'm not sure having a biodegradable oil is required either - remember two stroke oil gets burned. Personally I currently like FD rated semi synthetic oil made by Oregon.
 
It didn't biodegrade in the tank, it'll biodegrade in the environment.

The issue with 50:1 is the same as draining 3.5 quarts of oil out of your car and driving it around on 1.5 quarts of oil. It might be just fine, even for a long time. You're just operating so close to the edge of disaster that it's basically inevitable you'll go over the edge at some point.

50:1 is perfectly fine for most people in normal use, but milling is being over the edge into disaster all the time.
 

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