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Using a stock Husky 3/8 Chisel Chain, bought off the shelf. We will need to work on longer bars....we are using a 20 inch oregon bar out of the box but we hope to perfect our full roller chain/bar by the end of the summer--it has cut about .25 off of our best cut time & that is significant....
 
If you come to the west you'll have to have a bar long enough to cut 28" to 30". How big a sprocket do you have on your saw?
 
I run one of Cahoon's 500s and it has a 16tooth 1/2", but my old 250 ran a 22tooth 3/8's, so I think your a little low geared.
 
The problem you'll start having is matching your bar heel width to your sprocket. Until you find the right gearing you'll have to change it to each sprocket and it will kept getting bigger as you go up in sprocket size. With running 3/8's you'll have to have a belly in your bar too.
 
Agree with chain & gear size but we are working on a chain that rides in a groove in the bar-no need for a belly-full roller bar, self oiling that will eliminate the need for chain oiling other than the start of each day or maybe twice a day. Should also do away with chain adjusting. The bar is spring loaded & adjustments are made when changing a chain only, takes up slack for chain stretch, etc. We almost have it perfected with a few minor problems caused by high RPM race saws..
 
Your chains gone a have more than just stretch. The chain wants to spin into a circle, so it will come up off the bar. Maybe you've got it figured out, but I have my doubts. Let us know how it works out. Rollie
 
The chain rides in a horizontal slot that keeps the chain elliptical instead of rounder & rounder as the chain speed increases. Sort of like it has wings that ride in a track. Our bars are aluminum with steel inserts for the chain to ride in. So far it has worked well especially with built in needle rollers that the chain rides on. The bar is about 3/4 inch wide & the chain has grabber claws that are positioned about every 6 inches or so. these claws make the initial cut so the wide blade will be able to let the chain bite the wood. Once the chain grabs the log it actually seems to "claw" its way through the wood by itself & the grabber claws self clean the gooove in the bar. If we ever perfect this we are going to try & get a Patent on it..
 
Hey Rollin, now that I am a big contendor in the Pro racing circuit, could you do me a favour and evaluate the video below?
I am only running with pro's now, no woodticks, so that means I am finished with the likes of Martin, Heard, Cahoon, Dunn and Fales. Yes sir, no poofters for me. LOL
So now all the above can hit the road, it's Danny Boulangier who I get my tips from.
Anyway numptys, eat my sawdust!
Bye, Bye.
Oh yes, the wood is 48" circ. Basswood and a KD088.
John
 
Hi Bill, I think I jumped on it a bit at the end, or maybe it was the invisible knot. LOL
Keep us posted how your saw is coming along. There's lots of pro's here that will help you.
In actuality, I'm just am amatuer, even though I have everyone fooled, but I guess you knew that already.
John
 
Motorcyles...Bultaco's largest motor was there 360/370 series. The Maico's were longer stroke so they wouldn't rev. The Aircooled Honda's, Kawi's, Yamaha's, AND Suzuki's were all good midrange monsters. Their biggest issue was getting the "squish" right so they would not detonate when they were breathed on.and made to REV. (which they could be made to do)

I can't figure why the KTM 420/495 top end hasn't been a popular one for big air cooled hot saws. (I'm new to all this so I'm certain there is a reason). The reason I'm suprised is they were unique in a few ways thet seems like they would fit the saw world to a "tee".

They are WAY over square for a motorcycle motor. They were designed to be quick to build revs and midrange to top end motors. This is when the rest of the MX world were into torquers. They acually had a feel much more like a modern bike than their competition. Much snappier and quick to build revs..(at the expense of bottom end). Much higher RPM potential because of a relatively short stroke. Parts are available.

Their liability was they were simple piston port vs. reed valve design. This hurt the bottom end but not their peak power vs. competition. They could be made to really haul a** without a lot of effort.

I have a salvageable barrel should someone want to try.
 
Ahhhha that cut was very slow. You better get down on your knee's next time you see Tom Fales and beg for a chain that cuts poofter.

The older KTM motors are left handed motors. You have to spin the crank to make them work. Water cooled Honda motors with the water cooling cut off is whats winning now. Rollie
 
no i am not , but this would be a good year to go cause alot of the guys are not going, there is abig show in Quebec on saturday so most guys are going to there, it is closer plus has more classes for the guys, myself i think i have to stay home and get the spring board poles ready to put in the ground for Minden , we have over 60 people signed in this year plus if Cecil tells me the wood is there i am starting to turn the blocks now plus i need to get a couple saws done and back to there owners before they shoot me
this will be my last wood show because Cecil is buying the machine and doing it his self , this will free upsome more time for me plus i will not compete at a show that i did the wood at , i have seen in Quebec where the guy did the wood then won most of the classes and some guys raised hell because they think he kept out the best wood for himself, uphere now if you want there are shows all most every weekend and is getting to the point that there are to many shows for the number of lumberjacks but then if there is only 1 show that weekend you get tomany guys , you just can not win unless you cap the number of guys
 
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