Wood retrieval methods

[HeX0rz]

I have been thinking recently, wood season is not very far off to go out once again and retrieve the wood for next years season of wood. I constantly think about how I can make it easier and more efficient to drag out the wood from areas instead of manhandling these rounds up a hill and through brush.

I'm totally new to rigging and wonder what it is all of you guys do in order to drag out the logs to an area that gives you space and terrain that is more productive.

So far, I can only think of using a snatchblock. But do I need a winch as well, or can I hook it to my truck and use it instead?

Anyone know where I can get cable as well? I can't seem to find prices on them either...

 

[dingeryote]

Check your local Hardware or TSC for Cable.
Bailys has it as well.

Tractors work great for skidding, and Quads will do for smaller stuff.
A log arch will allow a lawn mower to haul decent sized stuff and a quad to haul out big stuff.

On the cheap, ya can't beat a good draft horse though.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[turnkey4099]

I have been thinking recently, wood season is not very far off to go out once again and retrieve the wood for next years season of wood. I constantly think about how I can make it easier and more efficient to drag out the wood from areas instead of manhandling these rounds up a hill and through brush.

I'm totally new to rigging and wonder what it is all of you guys do in order to drag out the logs to an area that gives you space and terrain that is more productive.

So far, I can only think of using a snatchblock. But do I need a winch as well, or can I hook it to my truck and use it instead?

Anyone know where I can get cable as well? I can't seem to find prices on them either...

A good set-up for that type work is:

1. A tow hook on the front of the tow vehicle. That way you can see what is happening.
2. At least 2 snatch blocks, 3 is better.
3. Several cables or load rated rope. For me, 40-50' sections work best - I have 6 of them plus a couple 'shorts'.
4. Several tow straps. Those are used to "eat up distance" when rigging a tow - cables are fixed length and some times (almost always really) you need something to reach a bit further. Can't shorten cables easily.

Source for cables: Bailey's and other sponsors on here, hardware store, farm supply businesses, etc.

Brush up on how to rig for different mechanical advantage tows. 2x and 4x are simple to do but the 4x will used up a lot of cable in order to move a load a few feet.

Harry K

 

[HeX0rz]

I have no tractor or quad or lawmore either, lol. A draft horse is something that a neighbor has but we would not be able to use it as they are not into firewood.

I'll check up on the cable on baileys, hope it won't cost too much. I have a hitch that has a an attachment for pulling. I was hoping to use it instead and have someone help me with signals.

Where can I get a good snatchblock? How are the cables spliced together or how is it that they can be added together? Any sites or informative places to learn up on rigging and multiple snatchblocks?

 

[tex]

On the cheap, ya can't beat a good draft horse though.

Until you have to feed it and water it. If you look at them wrong they colic and die. (sorry, I'm more of a cattle guy)

When I hunt in the ID panhandle, most wood cutters I see just use their truck and a couple of cables, straps, ropes, whatever to drag the wood out to the road. Attach the snatch block on the opposite side of the road as the wood you are dragging, as high as you can get it for an uphill drag, and drive down the road pulling the wood to it. Don't be affraid to block the road for hours on end either. Everyone else does. For downhill drags, have a helper to steer the log from the uphill side with a section of rope. Don't go too fast either, or your downhill drag will turn into a tangled uphill drag when the log shoots past the road.

Where in North ID are you? CDA area?

 

[Ductape]

I often wrestle with the same problems. Ultimately, what I really need is a logging winch to go on the three point hitch of my tractor, but there's no way its in my budget anytime soon. Here's one idea I came up with for relatively short money. I needed to got some trees out of a swampy area behind a friends house. The remote controlled winch was $50 at Harbor Freight .......... I already had all the chains, tongs, etc. I used the weak battery out of my dump trailer since I didn't have the extra coin to buy a new battery......which only allowed me to make a pull or two before recharging. A new battery would have made this method more fruitful, but i did get done what i needed to.

 

[brisawyer]

Look at the bull ropes in Baileys. I use a short chain on the log to keep from dragging a good rope on rocks. You wont break it with a pickup and its a lot easyer to deal with than cable plus you can tie knots ect to shorten it up.

 

[Somesawguy]

We use come-a-longs and chains. The truck works pretty well for an anchor point, or to move a log out of a bad area.

 

[pipehead]

Cut them to about 4' and carry them on your shoulder, or use a couple of pulp hooks (size depending, of course)

 

[Big_Al]

I think there are a few places in Spokane that sell cables,rigging etc. Might save some shipping costs and time, don't know how close you are. Have you checked in CDA? Might have something over there too. Can use a truck & cable with a snatchblock to pull out logs, way easier if you have a couple helpers along to keep an eye on things while your pulling. (safely out of the way of course) I've never seen anyone that completely blocked a road and wouldn't move when another rig came by, might take a few minutes to move a couple things but they always have. I do the same if someone wants by when I'm cutting.

 

[turnkey4099]

Cables are joined either by hooking them to each other with their attached hooks or using shackles. To make a 50 ft cable you need:

50 ft of cable 5/16 is a good size to use with a PU. You won't break that.
4 cable clamps (2 on each end to form loops in the cable).
2 'slip' hooks if you want hooks on the cable.

You should have at least one shackle for each cable.

Hooks and shackles get expensive. Cable not too bad.

I see you are in N Id. If you want to run over here to Colfax for an hour or two, I can give you a quick review of my set up (show is a lot faster than trying to tell someone 'how to') and perhaps a few lessons on the rigging.

Harry K

 

[Johndirt82]

I sometimes use this. Good ole diesel truck with 3/8's cable, If you are near SanDiego I can get it cheap from the rigging supplier.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1-mu23misM

 

[sawkiller]

The 5/16 may or may not be enough! First of all if you are like me and always determine whether a log is skiddable with a pickup by hooking and giveing her a yank than no 5/16 won't last long. If you get the cheap hardware store cable it will fail even quicker. Cable is good for slow tensioned loads at a steady pull but when you shock load it to get something moving I prefer nylon straps and a good heavy cable. I have a 5/8 that was from a crane that changed out its cable and that is some good stuff! That 5/16 stuff is great for a dog tie out especially the vinyl coated stuff!

 

[Tofurkey]

I have about 100' of chains and a couple of cable chokers and pull logs with my PU when I can. I also have a Smittybilt winch with 100' cable that goes into the receiver on my PU. I think the winch is really handy in some circumstances when you may not have the room to do a straight pull with a tractor or truck. It is also good for pulling down snags.

 

[HeX0rz]

Oh boy... You guys have given me quit a bit to swallow!

Sounds like I need to get to searchin around. I was curious how much 100' of 1/2" cable would be. I have very steep inclined mountain range that I will need to be draggin the wood out of... I'll take some pics for you guys sometime so you can get an idea....

 

[turnkey4099]

The 5/16 may or may not be enough! First of all if you are like me and always determine whether a log is skiddable with a pickup by hooking and giveing her a yank than no 5/16 won't last long. If you get the cheap hardware store cable it will fail even quicker. Cable is good for slow tensioned loads at a steady pull but when you shock load it to get something moving I prefer nylon straps and a good heavy cable. I have a 5/8 that was from a crane that changed out its cable and that is some good stuff! That 5/16 stuff is great for a dog tie out especially the vinyl coated stuff!

5/16" is on the minimum size but I have been yanking on mine for many a year now and never broke one. Of couse I am only using a F150 2x so...

3/8" would be better and I don't think there is a PU out there that would break that.

1/2" Getting in to the real "manly stuff" heavy, stiff, hard to coil. Probably overkill unless towing with some big trucks.

Harry K

 

[Sandhill Crane]

OSHA. Unless things have changed with cables use (3) crosby clamps (cable clamps) per end and the phrase 'never saddle a dead horse', meaning the saddle of the clamp goes on the load side of the cable, not the short end. Actually that is for cable handrail on construction sites, load bearing application may be very different. Be safe!

 

[Johndirt82]

1/2" cable is about a 1.00 a foot 3/8's I can get for .25 a foot and is rated at 14,400lbs break strength i think. I've never broken 3/8's although if you don't mind the weight and got the coin bigger is better , less to worry about.

 

[headleyj]

I found an old military snatch block - I will never break that thing (think it's a 5 or 10 ton) and works great.

With all the guys redoing military trucks these days and bobbing them, the excess parts from them are available. I got mine for $40.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Oh boy... You guys have given me quit a bit to swallow!

Sounds like I need to get to searchin around. I was curious how much 100' of 1/2" cable would be. I have very steep inclined mountain range that I will need to be draggin the wood out of... I'll take some pics for you guys sometime so you can get an idea....

Visit your local dump, they often have reams of used cable. The best cable is elevator cable that when it reaches a certain # of hours it gets changed out, but is perfect for mainline cable, 9/16" comes to mind or 1/2". It's strong and very high quality and quite flexible too.
John