Bucking Large Logs

[morgaj1]

What is the best technique for bucking large logs without getting the chain into the dirt? I was bucking a 24" diameter white oak today. There was no way to roll the log and I ended up in the dirt alot.

 

[mdavlee]

A lot of bucking practice of knowing exactly where the tip is and what it feels like to go from wood back into bark.

 

[jimbojango]

or buck most of the way down "normally" then set the powerhead of your saw about a half inch off the ground and let the tip of the bar come down to it to finish the cut. Easist way i've found to "cheat" at it

 

[J.W Younger]

What is the best technique for bucking large logs without getting the chain into the dirt? I was bucking a 24" diameter white oak today. There was no way to roll the log and I ended up in the dirt alot.

I don't really recommend it but I bore,cut barely into the bark down then up cut.If you don't know what you're doing this can get you hurt.

 

[coopww3]

You might want to look into getting your self a timber jack and some semi chisel chain.
Baileys has them for a pretty good price.
The semi chisel will stay sharper longer if you do occasionally hit the dirt.
But it wont cut as fast as full chisel.

 

[sunfish]

A lot of bucking practice of knowing exactly where the tip is and what it feels like to go from wood back into bark.

Yep, lot of practice!

 

[Turkeyslayer]

You can also watch the chips, they will change colour (darker usually) when cutting out the bottom bark of the log.

 

[jerryw66]

Wedges, timber jack, peavey, cant hooks, that's what those tools are for, amongst other things. I rarely hit the dirt, but it sure torks me off when I do. I keep most of these tools handy whenever I cut.

 

[Krokit]

timber jack .i bought one and have saved myself a lot of sharpening :chainsawguy:

 

[oscar4883]

Practice, know where the tip is at and the ground angle on that side. It is also OK to slow down and feather the throttle for that last little bit.

 

[morgaj1]

Thanks for the great tips. We were apparently doing it the hard way. I had my 6ft pry bar out trying to roll the log

 

[spacemule]

I like to lay a few limbs/firewood pieces perpendicular to the direction of tree fall and let the trunk rest on them. That keeps the log off the ground and the saw out of the dirt. If that's not possible, then there is almost always a spot on the trunk that is off the ground every few feet, and it's just a matter of cutting through at this point so that the cuts can be made from the top, piece rolled, and the cut finished going up. Simple takes a bit of practice to get good at it.

 

[turnkey4099]

I like to lay a few limbs/firewood pieces perpendicular to the direction of tree fall and let the trunk rest on them. That keeps the log off the ground and the saw out of the dirt. If that's not possible, then there is almost always a spot on the trunk that is off the ground every few feet, and it's just a matter of cutting through at this point so that the cuts can be made from the top, piece rolled, and the cut finished going up. Simple takes a bit of practice to get good at it.

Yep. That is the best way to do it. On the few occasions where I have one that isn't clear, I will buck almost all the way through for 3 or 4 rounds and then "baby" the saw the last little bit to cutthrough on the last on, roll section of rounds and finish those.

Harry K

 

[homelitejim]

When bucking pine I cut a chunk off the top and slide it under the light end and start from there working my way back. If the tree is heavy and I can't lift it I will pull it onto a chunk with the winch on the 4 wheeler. I always try to keep what I'm bucking in the air to prevent pinching anyway. I also cut my trees in 8 to 16 foot sections for my trailer and buck the logs at home because I use the sawdust for chicken bedding, trying to become more self sufficient.

 

[Mike Kunte]

Make yourself 1 or 2 of these log rollers/log jack combos. You will be amazed at the size log you can roll with the proper tool. This tool gives you just the leverage you need....

 

[blsnelling]

You'll either have to elevate the log or roll it to finish your cuts. Period.

 

[Huntaholic]

LOL I guess since Ive been using a saw since I was big enough to start one, I take a lot of things for granted. The bottom line is it takes years of practice and learning how to "feel" what youre cutting. I know exactly where the tip of my bar is without thinking about it. You've also got to learn to "read" the log youre cutting by looking at the high spots where its off the ground, the low spots where it touches dirt, ands how its going to react to being cut.

 

[wrcho]

Thanks for the great tips. We were apparently doing it the hard way. I had my 6ft pry bar out trying to roll the log

Instead of rolling, I would use the pry bar to lift the log and stuff smaller limbs under it (the log) to raise
it up off the ground. Especially helpful when the tree root is still attached to the log and the ground!

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I usually pick it up a ft or so off the ground with skid steer or excavator.

Or set it by the log decks, there's probably feet deep of peat type dirt there and not many rocks.

 

[holeycow]

Wedges, timber jack, peavey, cant hooks, that's what those tools are for, amongst other things. I rarely hit the dirt, but it sure torks me off when I do. I keep most of these tools handy whenever I cut.

All you need is a cant hook to roll the log. Two hooks with two people can roll a huge log. Even one person can roll a big log with this tool.

And practice to know where your cut is happening.