My first shot at tuning by ear and blew it....

[wdfccf73]

It all started with a simple project..
First to clean out the tubes to the carb adjustments on my 025.. Pulled the carb, cleaned them, put everything back together.
Then, my 310, to pull the limiting caps, clip the ears and reinstall...
Well, got the first one done (using the advice on AS), kinda hard to pull, but not a problem... put it back in. Went to pull the second one and it wasn't having it.. ended up pulling the little housing that surrounds both of them, it came out with it, FINALLY... Clipped them and reinstalled...
Feeling pretty good, I decided to try to tune my 025, since it had been so long, and trying to SQUEEZE, if any power left hiding in it..
Long story short.. I blew it.. now I'm not sure where its at on rpm's, not sure how lean or rich its running.. but in the end, I ended up just setting it at the factory 1 turn out. Going to try again tomorrow.......
Chris

 

[wdfccf73]

That second limiting cap being as stubborn as it was, it ended up kinda chewed up a little. I tried to clean it up with a exact o knife as best I could. Hope it doesn't end up being a problem later.
Chris

 

[SkippyKtm]

Have you been to Madsens site on carb tuning? Be sure to listen carefully to the .wav files!
Saw Carb Tuning

 

[wdfccf73]

Speakers are out on computer at home... I'll try at work in a few days.
Thanks,
Chris

 

[synness4]

That second limiting cap being as stubborn as it was, it ended up kinda chewed up a little. I tried to clean it up with a exact o knife as best I could. Hope it doesn't end up being a problem later.
Chris

go to your stihl deller there .25 each and on the tune four cycle wide open clean up in the cut if your not sure be safe and richen it up like you did today not hard just need to figure it out

 

[mama]

limiter caps

I modded my MS-290 and pulled the caps.I was going to replace them with new ones so I call the Stihl dealer and he said they never replace them on the saws they work on. So I never replaced the caps, he said you don't need them.

 

[oscar4883]

I always reinstall the caps. Baasically just to make it easier to get a screwdriver in the slot. You may want to try tuning in the wood. Open your high side so you are WAY rich and make a cut. Slowly lean it out and make more cuts. When it cleans up under load you are good. Doesn't have to be perfect. If it blubbers in the cut every now and again thats ok. blsnelling has some great vids on youtube. Just search "tuning" on his page.

 

[Adam_MA]

blsnelling has some great vids on youtube. Just search "tuning" on his page.

Hrere are the links. They are great reference, so I have them bookmarked!

http://arboristsite.com/chainsaw/111707-10.htm#post1860951

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/113538.htm

 

[blsnelling]

If the cap was hard to remove, then you probably didn't have the tab lined up with the slot in the extra aluminum piece that pulled out.

 

[cnice_37]

If the cap was hard to remove, then you probably didn't have the tab lined up with the slot in the extra aluminum piece that pulled out.

Bingo! Figured that out the hard way myself.

 

[cpr]

There's hop for you yet. Your subject line had me expecting bits of aluminum scattered around a bench...

 

[wdfccf73]

Thank You Everyone!

I'm very picky, the guys I work with say I have a MAJOR case of OCD. I just like things to be right and it bugs me if they aren't.

With everything I read on here, all of you make it sound so easy. Me being a country boy should make it even easier. Maybe I'm just missing the obvious here I don't know..
Is there a way on AS to save threads you want to have quick access to?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[diggers_dad]

You're not the first...

There's hop for you yet. Your subject line had me expecting bits of aluminum scattered around a bench...

I was expecting the same. Glad you didn't do permanent damage. It took me a few times to hear the "4 cycle" sound. Now I can hear it a mile away and do a decent job of tuning my own stuff. Keep at it, lots of good advice on here.

 

[wdfccf73]

diggers_dad,

From your info, you are the closest person on AS I've seen. Glad to know, Might have to give you a shout sometime. Your about an hour from me.

Thanks,
Chris

 

[RVALUE]

wdf Quick, post another post before you rep me. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[RVALUE]

FWIW, I thought I was pretty good at tuning by ear, and did fairly well in the cut, during normal saw operations. Then ol' Rope put a whooooping on me. Put a tach on it and I was 2500 rpm off target!

I now have a tach. (I just never bother to use it!)

 

[wdfccf73]

Sorry RVALUE, I have no idea what FWIW is?????:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[RVALUE]

for what its worth

 

[wdfccf73]

Gotcha... :hmm3grin2orange:

Thanks,
Chris

 

[rmh3481]

The low jet circuit of the carb handles 80% of the engine load including transition which is off idle to high rpm. The low side jet is always closest to the cylinder.

The high jet circuit handles only one thing and that is the supplemental fuel needs of high rpm power. The high jet is always the furthest from the cylinder.

Set each jet at 1 and 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Turn the jets counter clockwise or 'out' to add fuel and clockwise or 'in' to take away fuel. The 1 and 1/2 setting will allow you to start the engine. Once the engine is running, rev it a little to warm it up and give it a couple of minutes of run time for the castings to come up to temp.

When you feel its warmed up, put your screwdriver into the low jet and adjust for highest idle rpm. Literally turn the low jet in and out until you hit the highest idle rpm without touching the throttle. Stop at the highest rpm. Now hit the throttle to see if there happens to be a bog off idle. If there happens to be a bog off idle, open the low jet a little at a time ccw untill the bog disappears. Carbuerated engines need a little more fuel on the low side for good transition. You should end up having a good strong idle and transition now without any hesitation.

Now on to the high side. You want a distinct miss or four stroke when no load is on the engine with the bar and chain attached at high 'no load' rpm. Go ahead and open the high jet until you get a good miss at top rpm with your finger depressing the throttle to full. You will know when you have it too rich because the engine will not scream and will miss. Now find a piece of wood and slowly lean the high jet a little at a time turning it in or cw until the high speed miss ends as soon as you touch the wood with the chain placing a load on the engine.

When in tune the high speed miss should be present at top rpm when not cutting and end as soon as the chain touches the wood.

Final thing to set is the idle speed. This is the set screw which controls how far open the butterfly sits in the throttle bore. Adjust it to your liking, just dont set it so high as to allow the chain to move when the saw is sitting on the ground idleing around your feet.