Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

[w8ye]

I have a 111i that also lays down the bar oil everywhere. About the only difference between a 115i and the 111i is the B&C, clutch shoes, and the rim sprocket.

The tank doesn't go empty if you let the saw set but the pump really puts out the oil when the saw runs. Doesn't make much difference where you set the oiler adjustment.

I have a 6000i and it is not that way.

 

[8433jeff]

Well I'm stumped here. A buddy of mine dropped off his 117 and said that the oiler didn't seem to be working and that some times it seem to and then not. Well I took the engine off the tanks and checked the hoses and those connections. Couldn't find anything. I checked all of the hoses and every thing seemed to be in good shape. I even swaped out the pump. And still nothing. When I tested it at the shop it seemed to be puming alittle. So I turned out the adjustment screw and sent him away with it. Calls me the next day and it does not seem to be working again. I'm just puzzled here.

How is the drive gear and pump gear? When they get a little worn, things can be that way. My best guess, did you check the tank vent?

 

[Trzebs13]

How is the drive gear and pump gear? When they get a little worn, things can be that way. My best guess, did you check the tank vent?

Gears look good but now you got me thinking. Where is the vent for the oil tank?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Evening all, been lurking for a while but this is, I think, about my first post.

I have a Sachs Dolmar 115i I bought off eBay ages ago.

My only gripe is that it leaves large amounts of bar oil in the Landrover, in my shed, on the ground, actually, just about any place I leave it sat for a while. Is there a common (fixable) leak point or is this something these saws do?

The oil pickup line from the tank to the pump is the most common leak source on the 115`s. The grommet portion where it comes through the tank wall will shrink with age and then leak. A new line is about all that will work, if you take out the line, clean it very well with brake cleaner til perfectly dry and oil free, same as the tank wall lip where the grommet seals, then use good oil resistant RTV sealer to seal the line to the tank, this will stop the leak for a time, some I have done are going on 4 years now.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Gears look good but now you got me thinking. Where is the vent for the oil tank?

You need to drop the tank down in the front upper left corner you will see the air valve/vent for the oil tank.

 

[8433jeff]

You need to drop the tank down in the front upper left corner you will see the air valve/vent for the oil tank.

All mine has is a cotter key.

 

[pioneerguy600]

All mine has is a cotter key.

I have never seen that before,..where is it located?

 

[8433jeff]

I have never seen that before,..where is it located?

Top of the tank near the fill hole, not uncommon on oil tanks so never thought anything of it. Maybe a 1/8" hole with a small cotter key in it, won't leak if the tank is almost full and if the saw stays upright.

 

[pioneerguy600]

That on a plastic tank or metal?

 

[w8ye]

The oil tank is metal but the gas tank is plastic

 

[pioneerguy600]

What model of saw?

 

[w8ye]

I thought he was talking about a 115i

The oil tank is part of the crankcase

 

[pioneerguy600]

I thought he was talking about a 115i

The oil tank is part of the crankcase

I think Trzebs13 is talking about a 117, different oil tank from a 115. The 117 has a combo fuel and oil tank separate from the metal engine case.

 

[w8ye]

You are correct.

I went back trying to sort out who had what and I had the situation crossed up. There were two different oiler problem saws.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Easy enough to get mixed up, I do it all the time...LOL

 

[Trzebs13]

Yep you are right. I took a look at a 117 tank and it has tha cotter key in that small hole that you were talking about. makes me think that that is probably not the issue, but will have to check. Even if you got the typical saw dust/oil crap on it that it still would vent. I'll tear into it again but I still cant think of what it could be. There just isn't that much to go wrong here.

 

[Trzebs13]

Safety first

On another note, was cuttin up a soft maple for some camp fire wood this evening. And was looking at my Husky 55 and my SD 120, and I thought Id take the 120 for a spin. While doing some of the limbing about sholder high, it caught a small branch and kicked right back right at my face. While I was wearing a Helmet/face shield, it hit the hand break and the chain had stopped before it came in contact with the shield. Now I was able to stop it with just a slight tap to the shield but. Boy am I glad I took the time and tracked down a brake assy for this thing. It defintily was a reminder of how fast things can happen, and what can happen if one is not taking the nessasary precautions. Still do love that saw thoe. I'm suprised that it seems to run right with or maybe even better than my ported 119. Oh and it took out the front sproket on my brand new orginal SD bar

 

[w8ye]

Yep you are right. I took a look at a 117 tank and it has tha cotter key in that small hole that you were talking about. makes me think that that is probably not the issue, but will have to check. Even if you got the typical saw dust/oil crap on it that it still would vent. I'll tear into it again but I still cant think of what it could be. There just isn't that much to go wrong here.

Vibration makes the cotter key dance around and keeps the hole clear.

 

[8433jeff]

That on a plastic tank or metal?

Magnesium, definitely not plastic. If I have to take it apart again, I will snap a picture. It ran so well at the GTG (finally!), added to the fact I'm getting busier, I can't do it in the next couple days.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

might have a chance to snag a SD 114 for $40. not local so i can't touch, see, or run it. owner says it runs. is it worth it?