Spark Plug?

[xdmp22]

Two part question

The main thread topic.....

1. For your chainsaw, does it matter who makes your spark plug? Bosch? NGK? Champion? Autolite? E3?


2. How does this look for my plug? Rich? Lean? Good To Go?

Thanks in advance

 

[pgg]

1. Brand of plug makes not a shred of difference, the tired "Champion plugs don't work properly" nonsense was thrown out with the trash along with all the other old fish-wives tales long ago.

2. That plug looks about as pretty much perfect as ya can get.

possibly a little too rich though

 

[xdmp22]

1. Brand of plug makes not a shred of difference, the tired "Champion plugs don't work properly" nonsense was thrown out with the trash along with all the other old fish-wives tales long ago.

2. That plug looks about as pretty much perfect as ya can get

That was answer I was hoping for....thanks.....I get NGK at distributor cost so that's what I run, but was cruising wally world tonight and saw an E3 and almost tried it till I saw it was almost 8 dollars........

 

[srcarr52]

That is what you are looking for... cardboard brown on the ceramic around the center electrode. I can't tell because of the picture angle but you want 2-2.5 threads to be discolored for checking the heat range.

 

[xdmp22]

That is what you are looking for... cardboard brown on the ceramic around the center electrode. I can't tell because of the picture angle but you want 2-2.5 threads to be discolored for checking the heat range.

Its a little whiter than cardboard brown, but close. 3-3.5 threads are discolored, but I should mention it has a muff mod and I set the carb richer accordingly

My thought was I am good to go, but want to hear as many opinions as possible


thanks again

 

[srcarr52]

Its a little whiter than cardboard brown, but close. 3-3.5 threads are discolored, but I should mention it has a muff mod and I set the carb richer accordingly

My thought was I am good to go, but want to hear as many opinions as possible


thanks again

It's hard to read the plug sometimes because the chainsaw probably for a while before you shut it down. I usually set mine very rich at idle to get good throttle response which will screw with the plug reading if you don't shut it off while in load at full throttle. If it's a little towards white from cardboard brown you are still ok, but approaching white is bad. 3-3.5 threads discolored suggest that the heat range of the plug is too hot. But air cooled engines are hard to get a good read from because they don't run at a consistent temperature. I would just stick with the suggested manufacture heat range unless you are having problems with the ceramic cracking around the center electrode. Which in that case you plug looks great. Your plug looks like you are close, make sure you hear a little four-stroking at full throttle with no load and your good to go.

 

[Modifiedmark]

1. Brand of plug makes not a shred of difference, the tired "Champion plugs don't work properly" nonsense was thrown out with the trash along with all the other old fish-wives tales long ago.

2. That plug looks about as pretty much perfect as ya can get.

possibly a little too rich though

I agree with this post completly.

 

[sefh3]

I run Champion and Bosch plugs in all my saws. I bought some Bosch plug to see if they performed better and I can't tell the difference in performance between the plugs. I won't spend that kind of money for an E3. You can buy 5-6 regular plugs for the cost of the one. Your plug color looks great. It looks a touch rich but I would rather see it a touch rich than lean.

 

[w8ye]

The E3 philosophy of one size suits all where they only make the dimensions of the plugs and no heat range choices etc.

Take notice that one E3 plug replaces 50 other types?

E3 is all marketing hype!

This turns me towards NGK and Bosch

 

[xdmp22]

The E3 philosophy of one size suits all where they only make the dimensions of the plugs and no heat range choices etc.

Take notice that one E3 plug replaces 50 other types?

E3 is all marketing hype!

This turns me towards NGK and Bosch

That's what I figured, the marleting certainly worked, because it did look nice and shiny, if it was 3 dollars, I may have broke down, but for 8, really not worth it......

I didn't realize the lack of heat ranges....thanks

 

[xdmp22]

I run Champion and Bosch plugs in all my saws. I bought some Bosch plug to see if they performed better and I can't tell the difference in performance between the plugs. I won't spend that kind of money for an E3. You can buy 5-6 regular plugs for the cost of the one. Your plug color looks great. It looks a touch rich but I would rather see it a touch rich than lean.

I figure its a little rich and agree completley, that rich is better than lean. Also, as srcarr52 said, I pulled the plug after it was idling, and not shut off mid cut, so that could also add to the "richness"

Thanks again for the thoughts guys

 

[Hillbilly1]

That was answer I was hoping for....thanks.....I get NGK at distributor cost so that's what I run, but was cruising wally world tonight and saw an E3 and almost tried it till I saw it was almost 8 dollars........

Can't go wrong with NGK - excellent plugs IMO.

 

[redunshee]

I figure its a little rich and agree completley, that rich is better than lean. Also, as srcarr52 said, I pulled the plug after it was idling, and not shut off mid cut, so that could also add to the "richness"

Thanks again for the thoughts guys

Yup. That would give it a little rich color

 

[CTYank]

One thing I learned dealing with racing 4-strokes years back is that it's fine if the insulator tip is white (as in like-new) so long as the electrodes also look like-new AND there's a band of beige (say, 1/8" wide) at the base of the insulator.

That squares with appearance of plugs of a couple of my saws that were run pretty mercilessly a few weeks back cutting up tornado blow-downs in Monson MA. Except for the bit of beige below, they look just like when they were new. In the future, for work like that, they just might get slightly colder plugs- can't hurt.

 

[xdmp22]

Speaking of colder plugs, my saw specs a NGK BPMR7A which is what I am running. I figured since I only have a muff mod and richened the carb, the stock is ok, but may want to go one step colder depending on how it goes. After pulling the plug for pics, I put a new one in, we will see how it looks after a few runs.

If I do go colder, what plug should I run? I forget how the heat ranges go......thanks

 

[komatsuvarna]

Speaking of colder plugs, my saw specs a NGK BPMR7A which is what I am running. I figured since I only have a muff mod and richened the carb, the stock is ok, but may want to go one step colder depending on how it goes. After pulling the plug for pics, I put a new one in, we will see how it looks after a few runs.

If I do go colder, what plug should I run? I forget how the heat ranges go......thanks

Higher the number colder the plug I believe. I don't know if you can finder a colder resistor plug than that. I havent looked looked, but don't think Ive seen any....and it may not have to be a resistor. Im sure the BPMR7A will be fine, Ive ran them in some pretty hot saws.

 

[xdmp22]

Higher the number colder the plug I believe. I don't know if you can finder a colder resistor plug than that. I havent looked looked, but don't think Ive seen any....and it may not have to be a resistor. Im sure the BPMR7A will be fine, Ive ran them in some pretty hot saws.

Thanks, my guess it will be fine. The higher number= colder makes sense, but I can never remember.....

 

[xdmp22]

Just looked, NGK makes a BPMR8Y, no A, the Y I think is a longer plug, I may try and check it out, but longer can also be bad so I will have to measure....

 

[w8ye]

The BPMR7F is the same as a BPMR7A except that it is a tapered seat plug.

I have a Echo 510 engine with the BPMR7F plug and it runs fine.

 

[PLMCRZY]

I have always ran a ngk plug in anything high revving. I put a champion in my kx 100 a long time ago, thing never would run right. Switched it to a ngk and it ran great! Thats just me though.