Old Poulan XXV Micro Won't Oil The Chain

[bjorn773]

I recently inherited a Poulan XXV Micro. The saw is in beautiful condition including a brand new bar and chain. I had to repair a broken wire in the ignition circuit and the fuel line to get it running. Now it runs great, but won't oil. I pulled a new line through the oil tank from the "check valve" inside to the port in the case for oiling. It appears as though the chain moving in the bar is supposed to create enough draft to suck oil out. That's the only logical way I can figure this circuit works. There is no pump, just a one way valve in the oil tank with a hose attached. Everything is clean and the hose is new. Any idea what may be the problem?

 

[Fifelaker]

Too thick of oil?

 

[brokenbudget]

take the checkvalve back out and make sure it isn't stuck. spray a bit of wd40 (or equivilant) through to clean it out.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

I recently inherited a Poulan XXV Micro. The saw is in beautiful condition including a brand new bar and chain. I had to repair a broken wire in the ignition circuit and the fuel line to get it running. Now it runs great, but won't oil. I pulled a new line through the oil tank from the "check valve" inside to the port in the case for oiling. It appears as though the chain moving in the bar is supposed to create enough draft to suck oil out. That's the only logical way I can figure this circuit works. There is no pump, just a one way valve in the oil tank with a hose attached. Everything is clean and the hose is new. Any idea what may be the problem?

The oil pump body that the rubber line is on is not the check valve. The check valve is probably your problem and is located behind the clutch or flywheel (can't remember which side of the saw) it just looks like a regular bolt before you pull it out. If I can remember right it is a 1/2 bolt head. It lets pressure from the crankcase into the oil tank and this pressure is what pushes the oil.

 

[brokenbudget]

The oil pump body that the rubber line is on is not the check valve. The check valve is probably your problem and is located behind the clutch or flywheel (can't remember which side of the saw) it just looks like a regular bolt before you pull it out. If I can remember right it is a 1/2 bolt head.

yup it's just in front of the clutch (at about 1-2 o-clock).

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

yup it's just in front of the clutch (at about 1-2 o-clock).

Bingo! This is the check valve not the oil pump body that the hose is hooked to. Alot of guys think the oil pump body is the check valve. If you can blow through that check valve both ways then it is junk.

 

[bjorn773]

When I had it out yesterday, it only allowed vacuum to flow one way, toward the hose(was testing it with a hand held vac pump). I did see a 1/2 bolt head forward of the clutch. I will pull it out tomorrow. Can it normally be cleaned, or do you normally have to replace it? So it pressurizes the tank, allowing oil to push through the check valve, but not back down.

 

[brokenbudget]

When I had it out yesterday, it only allowed vacuum to flow one way, toward the hose(was testing it with a hand held vac pump). I did see a 1/2 bolt head forward of the clutch. I will pull it out tomorrow. Can it normally be cleaned, or do you normally have to replace it? So it pressurizes the tank, allowing oil to push through the check valve, but not back down.

they either work or they don't. i have had some success cleaning them in an ultra sonic cleaner. they have a small ball and spring in them. sometimes the spring gets rusty from sitting and breaks. if thats the case, the valve is junk. sometimes they just get either clogged or gummed up. try soaking it in diesel for a day and see what happens. you can test it by blowing through it. it should only pass air one way.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Bingo! This is the check valve not the oil pump body that the hose is hooked to. Alot of guys think the oil pump body is the check valve. If you can blow through that check valve both ways then it is junk.

John there is a check valve in that pump body! There is also the other one you speak of.

When I had it out yesterday, it only allowed vacuum to flow one way, toward the hose(was testing it with a hand held vac pump). I did see a 1/2 bolt head forward of the clutch. I will pull it out tomorrow. Can it normally be cleaned, or do you normally have to replace it? So it pressurizes the tank, allowing oil to push through the check valve, but not back down.

Yep!

 

[Acornhill]

anyone find a fix or replacement for the Poulan check valves?

John there is a check valve in that pump body! There is also the other one you speak of.



Yep!

anyone find a fix or replacement for the check valves? i need one for a XXV

thanks

 

[galde]

The check valve ( a rubber duckbill ) is inside the plug just forward of the clutch. The rubber always eventually deteriorates and the duckbill must be replaced. The other valve in the pickup body is the pressure release type which passes oil to the hose going to the bar when the pressure in the tank reaches some value. The duckbill passes crankcase pressure pulses to the oil tank to pressurize the tank. If the duckbill is bad, then the tank pressure never gets high enough to push oil through the pickup body.

 

[Acornhill]

The check valve ( a rubber duckbill ) is inside the plug just forward of the clutch. The rubber always eventually deteriorates and the duckbill must be replaced. The other valve in the pickup body is the pressure release type which passes oil to the hose going to the bar when the pressure in the tank reaches some value. The duckbill passes crankcase pressure pulses to the oil tank to pressurize the tank. If the duckbill is bad, then the tank pressure never gets high enough to push oil through the pickup body.

Galde, what is the fix/replacement for the check valve behind the clutch? part # or process would be helpful

thanks so much rep sent

 

[Showme]

Galde, what is the fix/replacement for the check valve behind the clutch? part # or process would be helpful

thanks so much rep sent

If you get the fix you know how to get a hold of me.

Gerry

 

[Acornhill]

If you get the fix you know how to get a hold of me.

Gerry

haha Gerry, you know the price will go up and i will be stuck with it, i am thinking of selling the 3400 and the XXV as a pair once/if repaired but a see you already have 3 3400. love those poulan's.

 

[Showme]

Yes, it's too bad your 3400 isn't a 3700. i've got a real void there!

 

[Acornhill]

Yes, it's too bad your 3400 isn't a 3700. i've got a real void there!

Gerry, that 3400 was my 1st saw, my dad let me pick it out when i was a teenager, around the early 80's, the price was $299.00 and his 1st saw i still have as well (Remington mighty mite) is my 3 year old son's now. i have the Craftsman 3.7 as well. (that is a sweet runner as well)

 

[galde]

Galde, what is the fix/replacement for the check valve behind the clutch? part # or process would be helpful

thanks so much rep sent

The check valve kit is Poulan part #530-069142. I used to get them from Stens (610-377) but they no longer offer them. Some time ago I posted my method to rebuild them here on AS. This part is almost always the culprit when these saws won't oil the chain. Surely someone must still offer them, since they are in constant demand.

 

[Showme]

Gerry, that 3400 was my 1st saw, my dad let me pick it out when i was a teenager, around the early 80's, the price was $299.00 and his 1st saw i still have as well (Remington mighty mite) is my 3 year old son's now. i have the Craftsman 3.7 as well. (that is a sweet runner as well)

Fix the XXV and bundle it with the 3.7 to me. You can't sell the 3400, that would be a big mistake.

 

[bjorn773]

The check valve kit is Poulan part #530-069142. I used to get them from Stens (610-377) but they no longer offer them. Some time ago I posted my method to rebuild them here on AS. This part is almost always the culprit when these saws won't oil the chain. Surely someone must still offer them, since they are in constant demand.

I've been searching and cannot find either the Poulan or Stens part listed anywhere. How is it that they can be rebuilt? It seems this may be the only option since it is an obsolete part.

 

[Acornhill]

grind off around the screen remove screen, remove duckbill clean inside very good, install new duckbill, reinstall screen and JB weld back in place. be carefull.